Unfortunately the early ones don't self clear when the fault is fixed. Needs to be reset with Nano or similar. Generic code readers don't do it.
Strange that it went into fault mode, unless you powered the ignition on with the bag unplugged- to test blend motors or something?
Thanks Gilbertd- I did stick a 10k pot (left over from my blend motor repairs) in place of the LPG temp sensor, just to confirm that it solved the non-switching problem, as I had hacked out several metres of superfluous cable from the LPG system when I was doing the heads.
At least you came away from Woburn with all of your wipers and mirrors...
Yep- I used to move in VAG circles. My Golf VR6 was fussy about wanting genuine for anything that measured anything :)
The New New engine temp sensor was genuine. Still getting weird data from the engine ECM side though. As for the LPG reducer temp sensor, I'm not sure that there is such a thing as a genuine Zeta sensor as I'm sure they just bought in a generic one. Just by coincidence it is badged as a Zeta sensor though.
More temperature sensor anomalies.
Thought I'd get the LPG up and running this weekend- it was kicking in and then turning off with an alarm beep almost straight away. Plugged in the laptop. Reducer temperature -40C !
Checked thermistor in sensor. Open circuit. That explains that then. Must have broken a wire in there while using the sensor as a bleed point for the cooling system. Irritating that I'd fitted a Superseal connector in the cable replacing the direct hard wire to ECU to tidy things up when I was doing the heads.
I was anticipating using reducer temp to cross check the other coolant sensor. That'll have to wait until tomorrow now.
At £175 for 20L of 100% Argon (SGS prices) you've got to want to weld it a lot! Mind you, you can probably get it at hobby prices and sizes to try it out.
Damn- I cracked and bought a roll cab :(
Thanks for the tipoff RR
Spool gun? Blimey now you can weld aluminium!
Are you doing a full monty rebuild- shells, rings and stuff, while you've got the block out?
Same screen Chris. Just start to enter the postcode, (enter first two letters) then you get a row of numbers underneath the remaining letter choices when you move to the third.
Now you'll be able to tell the recovery people exactly where you've broken down :)
I love a good MIG.
Have to say it's the tool from my armoury that I've least used on the P38 though. Think I've only welded one little bracket to relocate the dipstick!
Never seen anyone get a head off with a MIG before :)
"...as read on nanocom..."
You put that in just to make me smile!
Just rehashing a bit. You've tracked down the squeaky knock, but the failed rocker wouldn't have caused it to spit out all of its water. Have you actually found a smoking gun for the overheating or still with the smouldering gun of missing drain plug and sticky thermostat?
... and new bolts for the pedestals :)
Sloth wrote:
Question - I still have all the rocker gear from my old green P38's engine. Can I re-use a pedestal and rocker from that? The shaft from the engine I'm working on looks in good shape, no obvious scoring or marks. Other than my testing of the engine and reversing up the drive, it hasn't done any mileage while the pedestal/rocker have been broken.
The rocker and pedestal should be interchangeable, as the peds aren't line bored after installation, just assembled from a box of what should be identically machined components, but might be better to use the whole rocker set from the old engine, assuming it's in OK condition.
If one pedestal has cracked through overstress, others may be damaged as well. Rocker shaft may be bent too.
Well, definitely something still strange going on with ECM coolant temp readings.
Did a run from cold start at home to workshop where I let it idle for a bit. No overheating, gauge didn't go past just below 1/2, IR temps around 90:
After tinkering with LPG for a bit, took it for a run around the lanes. No overheating, gauge didn't go past just below 1/2, IR temps around 90 again.
It's not smelling hot, bubbling in cooling system when turned off, ejecting steam or fluids. Top hose is as firm as when I pressure test cooling system to about 12 PSI, so I'm almost (!) confident I'm not cooking the motor.
Anyone actually had their cooling system up to 105C and seen where temp gauge points?
Can't tell from schematics whether overheat warning lamp is driven from gauge/ BECM data or ECM data. Either way, it doesn't come on.
OK. Did a quick sprint out...
Ambient- 13.6C
Nano coolant temp 11.2C
Temp gauge 1st of the blue lines
Ignition on, but engine not started.
I'll do another dataset with engine startup from cold after breakfast.
Haven't been out to car yet. Bit of a mini-monsoon going on here.
Just waiting for my sausages to cook, then out into the elements
That's the one for yours. Bearmach better than Britpart.
They've got the part number slightly wrong though- it's LVF100400
There's a sort of adjustment. According to the SID:
The signal supplied by the engine coolant temperature sensor is critical to many fuel and ignition control strategies. Therefore, the Bosch 5.2.1 system incorporates a complex engine coolant temperature sensor default strategy, which it implements in the event of failure.
The ECM uses several alternative inputs to determine the specific default value selected in these circumstances. The amount of time the engine has been running and the temperature of the air entering the engine are the primary inputs used to determine the default value. The
software model of the temperature increasing will finish when it reaches a value of 150°F (65°C). This value is then used until the engine is switched off.
I guess it'd throw a fault code if it implemented the above. It goes on to say:
The following symptoms may be noticeable in the event of an engine coolant temperature sensor failure:
• The MIL lamp illuminated (after ‘validating’ the fault)
• Poor engine hot and cold start
• Overheat warning lamp (incorporated within the Instrument pack) is illuminated
• Excessively hot or cold needle reading on the temperature gauge.
I don't think that's self calibrating though