It might be easier to move house to where the satnav thinks you are :)
What does it do with the old disk?
Hi David
I've covered it in more depth in an email before I saw this post, but briefly
SAAB Pressure switch-
https://www.amazon.co.uk/ACDelco-25530882-Original-Equipment-Pressure/dp/B0010GFRD8/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1495170167&sr=1-1&keywords=AC+DELCO+25530882
Sensor short- wait for Marty to drop by. I think he's got a rabbit to pull out of the hat on that one :)
Search me!
My car never goes anywhere so it always knows where it is. I think I'm getting screen burn with an image of the workshop location
I'd have thought the Nav would default to Chelsea. :)
It can take around 15 mins to locate itself, according to the book:
_If the vehicle battery has been disconnected,
or if the vehicle has been transported to a
new location on another vehicle (eg. by
trailer or train), the navigation system will
require approximately 15 minutes to identify
the new position. Entering the new location
manually will reduce this delay
Entering the vehicle’s current position:
From the ’Destination memory’ menu,
highlight and select ’Enter current car
position’. The navigation computer calculates
and displays the vehicle’s current position. If
a name is required, highlight and select
’Name:’, then use the typewriter menu to
enter the name.
Highlight and select ’enter’ to store the
current position in the destination memory._
Gilbertd wrote:
RAVE doesn't appear to tell you how to get the carpet out. OB is your man, he replaced his at last years summer camp. I do recall there was rather a lot of bits strewn around the car though.
Did the easy bit at Summer Camp- seat swaps and rear carpet on the HSE. Didn't do the front.
Had both carpets out of the VSE recently though. As Sloth says the front carpet comes out after removing seats (easy- 4 torx, some trim panels and unplug a few cables), step trims, kick panels (may not need to but mine were out anyway) and the centre console. It's the console that is a bit fiddly as there are a few components to take out to get to the main fixings.
Morat wrote:
What should you do if your P38 floods?
Ask Maam if she needs to refresh her Tena Lady pants?
I can remember wading some ford or something in my old S3 Military Lightweight and the water coming over the top of my wellies!
Just had to open the door to let the water out afterwards. They were simpler times...
With that much water in there it'll take an age parked in a desert to dry it out with just the windows open!
A good session with a wet vac, pop the door sill trims so you can get some blocks of wood between carpet foam and floor and warm air blowing under there will speed things up.
Most important thing will be to get and keep everything dry in the vicinity of the BECM (which is surrounded by carpet). If water gets in there you're in for a whole box of electrical gremlins to escape and wreak havoc.
RutlandRover wrote:
To take off the plastic bit covering the plenum foam do I have to take off the black trim on the A-pillars?>
I have a new plenum foam to put in and it sounds like an ideal time to fit that, while taking it apart in search of a leak
You won't find a much better guide than this one. Has pictures too :)
If you're going to remove the plenum covers you'll probably find the self tappers that hold it in are at the point of disintegration so have some new ones handy and seal them where they go through the metalwork to stop micro leaks.
This was what the large one looked like. There is an O ring in there somewhere! Well in need of replacement.
Yep- the covers for the filters. Bead of silicon all round and a blob on the screw heads.
Plenum filter cover seals (use silicon) and sunroof drains blocked or hoses detached or more rarely, split, are common culprits.
Gilbertd wrote:
I'd say go for the original LR flexplate. Spending over twice as much on something that you don't really need unless you are going for a tuned engine doesn't seem worth the money really.
An alternative perspective (mine!) would be to fit the uprated flex plate as the OEM flex plate is one of the more common failure items on the P38 and it'd certainly be worth the extra £40 as insurance against having to spend time splitting the engine and box to change it out again. Bit like a top-hatted engine really- an improvement on original.
gordonjcp wrote:
Are they the same size as the ones in the heater matrix?
I think the heater feed one is - ERR6434
Large one's an ERR7202
There are another couple of O ring joints on the system that are hard to see minor leakage from due to other stuff being in the way. Both O rings were fairly shot on mine:
Where the metal heater feed pipe fits into the inlet manifold
Where the metal outlet pipe from manifold to radiator top hose intersects manifold
While you're plugged in may as well pull any engine fault codes. It might have generated something on its last trip.
That's belt on isn't it? The whistle definitely sounds like something belt driven. If it is belt on, did you do a belt off recording? That'd be helpful as the whistle drowns out the other noises.
It sounds a bit "endy" to me. There's a definite knock but that could be induction noise or even not firing on all 8.
Martyuk wrote:
I think that it was OB who mentioned about adaptions now changing below 1/4 tank... want me anyway. >
I personally am unsure of whether it does our not on a GEMS, but can't see why it would stop adapting. The bosch ones don't, they'll sul adapt when fuel level is low.>
Yeah- it was me. Came out of a conversation I was having with Mark Adams about something else a year ago:
He said:
Note that GEMS will not adapt the fuelling if there is less than quarter of a tank of fuel remaining. It does this to prevent false adaptation occurring due to fuel surge when the level is low. Any large corrections will remain until the vehicle is properly filled with fuel (at least half a tank). GEMS shuts itself down approximately 20 seconds after the ignition has been turned off.