It's probably the same dowel the RV8 has used for ever!
602141a
https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-602141A
http://www.paddockspares.com/602141-dowel-flywheel-hsg.html
I'll second that Tony!
Measured the one I'd just replaced before I scrolled down and saw the pic with the sizes. Spot on...
:)
Welcome!
Stick a few more details of the car and location (probably around GilbertDville!) into your sig so we know what you've got.
Good result on the Nano Evo- they're pretty blooming handy for talking to these cars and save a lot of head scratching.
How do you find the Tornado cam? They're usually a semi-race item in big-boreTVR's and the like and have a power/ torque band from 1800 - 6500 rpm so on paper a bit "sporty" for a RR. Perhaps it has a Tornado chipset rather than cam?
At the moment you're still at the "quite liking" stage- hopefully that'll move up into "like" as you find just what a capable car it can be.
That's good news. Just another cooling system drain/ fill/ bleed to go then. Do you use a vacuum filler or just pour coolant in when refilling?
Excellent! Just that "mark as read" bug to destroy now :)
Can't get in to main page or through link direct to last post in there.
Wonder what Gilbertd wants to TIG weld?
Morat wrote:
Last time I went to see Marty, I was impressed with the Jurys Inn. It's comfy and good value, but a bit further away. Just don't park in the multi-story opposite or it will cost you £70 to get out again on Sunday :/ We'd also be able to convoy through Swindon which gives me a childish grin.
https://www.jurysinns.com/hotels/swindon
Only currently £7.00 cheaper than Alex House :)
Given that onsite parking at Alex is free and you have to mess around driving through Swindon (Convoy? I managed to lose / get lost by everyone else just driving through the lanes last time!) I'll go for the Alex
Morat needed a front seat repairing a while ago. Is that still on my list? Same goes for Marty's rust patch repair on the roof. That one's a bit weather dependent as it's hard to get a good finish if too damp.
Apart from my headlining, I'd like to do some mid and high calibrations on my LPG. Need someone to read/ tweak the maps 'cos I struggle to drive the car and drive the laptop at the same time. Not sure if there are any roads suitable for high power runs very close to the workshop though.
I do have a transfer box rebuild on my to-do list, but I think that'll take too much time in the workshop bay.
As far as the headlining goes, the Oatmeal from Martrim looks close enough to the original for me. Given that the original has faded with age, the Oatmeal goes well with the pillar trims so that's my point of reference.
Marty's parts- well I do need a window switchpack (RHD Sunroof). Don't need to fit it as I've taken the one off the blue car for now. Can bring the failing one up for exchange. I'm also in the market for loadspace trims (the cloth covered panels), lightstone in really good condition.
Anyone else going for the same hotel as last year?
Most afterfit electric fans that I've seen put the sensor in the top hose coolant flow, rather than on the rad itself. The thinking behind that is that you're measuring the actual liquid coolant temperature rather than somewhere where airflow over the sensor and the reliance on surface contact can skew the figures.
I used one of these on the V8 Hybrid (it had a twin fan electric setup). It did what it said on the tin! Shiny shiny too :)
Ferryman wrote:
Oh, and what when the owner finds his cabinet in that state tomorrow?
I was wondering about that. Are you going to put your old viscous fan onto the cabinet to hide the evidence?
The trims will adjust themselves over time. The adaptive reset just gets things back to a base level straight away.
As the LPG settings are directly mapped to petrol injector timing they will reflect the trim changes, so shouldn't need much (if any) tweaking
I had a crack on the fitting where the IACV hose goes into the upstream side of the inlet manifold which caused a rough idle. Repaired the crack. Cleaned the IACV but wasn't happy that it was moving freely so stuck on a spare. Idle was still inconsistent so reset Adaptives and idle settled back to what it should be. If you don't have the means to reset Adaptives you may have to wait a while until things settle down to accommodate the changes you made when you changed the throttle butterfly position.
Have you tried taking the oil fill cap off with it running? Mine chuffed like a traction engine when it was blowing into the valley.
Yours still sounds a bit knocky when you blip the throttle.
You said you backed off the CC cable a couple of turns. Did you adjust it as per spec? If you don't have that gap the CC will continue to hold the throttle valve slightly open
That's the one that lives under the centre console in cubby box area (does on my blue one anyway!). PITA to get to as console has to come out.
Just for the hell of it, clean/ reseat the yellow connectors under the seats. They can get pulled around moving the seats to extremes of travel.
One of the microswitches in the latch is the "door ajar" switch.
Cause- microswitch (unlikely as it's a Marty build), cable or connector to outstation (PW), outstation.
I'm sure Marty will be along to give some expert guidance.
Mine does the opposite on the black one- doesn't recognise it as being open!
Just be careful when adjusting 'cos if you go too far aiming for the perfect gap and the catches jam it's a complete pain in the ar$e to get open again. ask me how I know!
Fortunately I had a spare :)
I'll second the IACV. The spool should move freely when you rotate the unit on the axis of the spool. If it doesn't, a damn good squirt until all the carbon gunk is off will probably do the trick.
Gilbertd wrote:
Orangebean wrote:
I will make a note of the numbers next time I've got the Nano plugged in though.
Don't forget that the numbers are just that though, numbers. They are not specific heights but a number between 0 and 255 which corresponds to the angle of the height sensor lever arm at any specific height. So they will almost always differ between two different cars. The difference may be even greater between your two as they have different height sensors and height sensor mounts.
That's very true Gilbertd. I'm going to make a note of the numbers just so I have them to hand for my car (the VSE as it looks "different") and my Nano, just so I can monitor change or in the future if I need to!
dhallworth wrote:
The EAS on this car seems to be higher then usual on standard height so I've just ordered 4 new bump stops and I'll get Testbook and my calibration blocks out and calibrate it and see if that makes much difference.
That's interesting David. Ever since I got the VSE I've had the feeling that it sits higher than the HSE on standard. Certainly when parked side by side there's a much bigger gap between tyre and wing.
I'd just vaguely put it down to the VSE being on standard 18's and the HSE being on standard 16's (both on Grabber AT's) and hadn't really thought more about it, other than I quite like the taller look.
I've never bothered to actually check it with the blocks though and, as it drives/ handles nicely and I haven't had any EAS problems, I've left well alone. I will make a note of the numbers next time I've got the Nano plugged in though.