My parts lookup- LRCat (don't have Microcat working here) shows either (damn!)
FB506115 - BOLT-FLANGED HEAD 3/8UNC X 1 3/8 HOUSING TO ENGINE
LYG101450 - BOLT-FLANGED HEAD 3/8UNC X 1 7/8 HOUSING TO ENGINE
FC506267S - BOLT-FLANGED HEAD 3/8UNC X 3 1/4 HOUSING TO ENGINE
or
FB108081 - BOLT-FLANGED HEAD M8 X 40 BASIC HOUSING TO ENGINE
FB110101 - BOLT-FLANGED HEAD FLANGED HEAD M10 X 50 HOUSING TO ENGINE
FB110201 - BOLT-FLANGED HEAD M10 X 100 HOUSING TO ENGINE
So, not a great amount of help!
Orangebean wrote:
Idler pulleys from VIN XA410482:
Tensioner side- PQR101060- 70mm According to latest parts list this supersedes to
https://www.lrdirect.com/PQR500060-Idler-Timing-Belt/
Don't buy Britpart!
Aircon side- PQR101150- 80mm
https://www.lrdirect.com/PQR101150-Pulley-Aux.-Drive/
Bolts- FB110081L- M10x40 but both appear to come with bolts- worth checking though.
Ta!
I'll give those a try
Now that things have settled down after the head replacement, time to revisit and refine the LPG settings and calibration. First thing I found was that it's much easier to calibrate if you have the ecu set to 2 banks rather than 1 (doh!).
Anyway, what I'm interested in are what the settings others have established as minimums for:
Threshold revs for changeover (on acceleration)
Reducer temp for changeover
Changeover from petrol-gas delay
Overlap time
It takes a lot of faffing to change 1 parameter a little, test and let it cool again so I'm trying to save a little time!
That's an unusual failure...
Idler pulleys from VIN XA410482:
Tensioner side- PQR101060- 70mm
Aircon side- PQR101150- 80mm
Bolts- FB110081L- M10x40
As you're getting in deep with replacements, why not do the thermostat as well?
Try Real Steel- they put together the kits that Rimmers sell. I found that out to my cost after shopping around and finding, unusually, that Rimmers were cheapest at the time. Found a Real Steel packing note in the box!
Morat wrote:
Is it too late to suggest a "Wading Switch" so you can be sure your fan is still next time you cross the raging rapids of the West Country?
We have raging rapids down here? Where?
There are a couple of mildly irritated rivers and that's about it :)
To get them looking good is a fair bit of work. Have a look at post #233 on this page
https://rangerovers.pub/topic/305-resurrection-vogue-se-a?page=12#pid6657
I used Liquid Leather products- not cheap but really good stuff.
So, here's how I do it...
Seats out. No need to dismantle. Only reason I did was to sort out some seat heater and mobility issues.
Steam and scrub with fine abrasive Scotch pad (Care and finesse needed! There are air bags in the side cushions and you don't want to abrade the leather too much. Practice on a bit you won't see)
Clean with Intensive Cleaner
Fill cracks with Aquafill
Mask up piping
Airbrush as required with Scuffmaster dye
Airbrush with Sealant
Easy huh? Nope, it's time consuming and you have to be meticulous to get good results.
Have a look at the videos here
Never got to the bottom of it, or rather haven't yet!
What I'm lacking is data for IR thermometer for a normally presenting ECM (Nano) coolant temperature (ie readings at top, bottom rad hoses and body of temperature sender with engine idling fully up to temp and stat open, compared with Nano readings. Whilst I can measure mine, I don't have anything to compare them with.
Cables and connectors to sender are good. Only other thing that it might be is a hotter thermostat. I fitted a new one when I did the head work, but did test it in a pan of boiling water first to check that it opened/ closed at the correct temps. and it did.
Bit baffled really and still slightly anxious about cooking the rebuilt engine, although telling myself if I didn't have a Nano things would appear perfectly normal.
You could walk out and unplug/plug/ unplug/plug the yellow connectors under the seats in less time than it would take you to put on your eye-liner to prep your puppy eyes :)
IIRC the early black plug ones had extra microswitches (for Park/ Neutral interlock) compared to the later light grey ones. Changeover might have been the same time as GEMS/ Thor, but I'm not sure.
Go with one with the same socket colour that you currently have (probably light grey?).
Patience is back on the road, just in time to take the other one back into the workshop as the water in oil problem isn't going away.
A few teething problems, some anomalous readings between gauge temp and ECM temp (covered in another thread) and a very slight leak from RHS exhaust manifold to downpipe- only audible because the engine is now so quiet and smooth,
Of course, now the engine is so quiet, the loudest thing is a gearbox whine. You couldn't hear it if there was an aftermarket exhaust on the car, it's that small a whine, but it's there.
Just driving it and enjoying it at the moment. Only pending treatment is an appointment to get the headlights properly aligned next week. My chalk line and tape measure setup was pretty close but those LED lights are so white and bright that I want to make sure they're legal and to MOT standards.
After that- on with the paintwork...
Looks good Sloth- and you resisted the temptation to fit bright blue hoses!
Check fuse 33 first- it's the power to the OBD socket.
Then pop OBD connector out and clean/ check, then the 2 white connectors behind the LH footwell kick panel- the wires in there have a tendency to corrode and break.
Morat wrote:
You need a Nanocom.
I think anyone who's serious about keeping a P38 on the road long-term needs a Nano, but GON is on a budget that doesn't stretch that far.
I've had a Hawkeye and it was OK-ish, but I sold it after a few months and put the money toward a Nano. If you don't have the money you have to go with what gives best bang for the buck you have.
I'm more concerned that there's a potential problem with OBD comms and whatever he buys won't work.
Before you buy anything, are you sure that you don't have a problem with your OBD socket or wiring? Usually generic code readers can get at least some 2 way comms going. If your socket/ wiring have issues, then nothing will connect.
As for diagnostics, if you have a laptop running Windows XP to 10 you might consider EasUnlock V4. Good things have been said about it and it's only around £150.
mace wrote:
Ray got back to me with the right name, this stuff: Millers classic sport 20w 50 semi synthetic engine oil
Blimey- at £50 ish for 6L it should be formulated from liquid platinum and come with a team of elves to lovingly massage it into the working parts of the motor!
Small price to pay compared to the cost of the motor though. Just hope your car doesn't get an appetite for it and refuse to be lubed by anything else :)
Are you fitting a new cam/ followers Miah? If so you would benefit from a high detergent/ high zddp oil for "running in" (quaint old phrase) especially when bedding in a new cam. I guess if the engine's "tight" a 20/50 might be a benefit. The Millers one you linked to above would fit the bill, and if it's what Ray recommends then I'd go with that. That has the benefit of not giving him an out should there be any problems with rings bedding in etc (not that I think there would be- he does quality work)
I've had an issue with Island and comms in the past. I tend to use LR Direct. Their dispatch is always speedy and their site offers more options for make of parts. Only drawback is having to know the part number you're looking for, but that's not too hard. Only time I've found Island considerably cheaper than anyone else is for genuine Dunlop suspension bags and (touch wood) I've never needed to buy them.
Pictures, or it didn't happen :)
Of course, the shiny block means that you now have to spend ages cleaning everything that bolts to it. Can't hide a shiny block under grubby peripherals!