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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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I, for one, won't be adding anything to this thread just to keep it at the top of the page
:)

Buy a Lottery Ticket!
You're lucky that didn't get fired off somewhere with an expensive bang.

Thing is, even if the oil pressure is proved to be low (as AE says he wants to do diagnostics before digging in) that, in itself, won't diagnose anything. Low pressure can be caused by a huge number of different things, from contaminated oil through worn shell bearings to knackered pump- the list goes on.
To find out what is causing the knock is going to take a degree of stripping down. Start at the rockers and move down from there.

I'm going to disagree on valve train and go for a small end or piston skirt or, dare I say it, slipping liner.
Because I'm bored and sitting at the PC that has all my sound recording software on it, just for fun I analysed the clacking and there are 2 different clacks with each repeating at roughly 12 Hz and equally spaced. That comes out as 720/min which is engine idle speed.
So, with the appliance of science, that's my deduction. Bet I'm not even close :)

Now that has to be the nastiest atrocity of a P38 that I've seen for a long time!
Funniest thing is that the bidding is up to £1500 already. There are some huge optimists out there.

Gilbertd wrote:

Now you've just got to fix the oil leak that caused oil to get in there in the first place....


I'm sure you could use your Proctologists hands again though. Save you getting your own hands dirty...

I'm going to start a new topic called "Ferryman wants to move to page 2"
:-)

I wonder if there's a huge warehouse complex full of parts there, which at least means you'll cut out the wait for shipping their cr@p via a dealer in UK?
I imagine it's more of an agency where you'll go in, be told "it's not in stock" and have to wait for it to be shipped from UK.

Only got a single point on my GEMS, but the emulators etc are all bolted onto the back of the GEMS box. There's certainly space there to fit a "proper" LPG ECU and, as you say, makes cabling easier

My garden tractor thingy is like that. Sits outside unused in the elements all winter. No cover or anything. Never gets any maintenance. Always starts first turn of the key. I put it down to the Kawasaki motor :)

Here's what the early XYZ units look like, full of cr@p and opened up!
enter image description here
I can't imagine much contact cleaner will find its way into those microswitches if just squirted through the vent hole so think you were lucky there BrianH

You got me thinking about deterioration Simon, so did a bit of digging. BP have done several studies on ageing fuel in tanks. There's an interesting paper here if you fancy a bit of light reading
Bottom line is, according to Gary Whitfield, Senior Fuel Chemist at BP Australia:
In the right conditions, fuel can last up to 12 months. But once the container is opened, the fuel will start to degrade.
“Once the seal is broken, a vapour space is formed in the container and the fuel will start to deteriorate more rapidly,” he says.
Mr Whitfield claims fuel in a car’s tank can last for up to four weeks before it becomes considerably denser. When this happens, the engine is effectively over-fuelled (without any change in injector pulse-width) and there’s an increased chance of carbon deposition onto spark plugs and inside the combustion chamber. This can cause driveability problems such as stutters and misses.
“Regular unleaded fuel will lose a small amount of octane over time but in our low-sulphur and high detergent Ultimate fuel it might increase very slightly. It might increase 1 RON in four weeks – but it’s not something I’d bother chasing,” he says.
“Keep in mind that typical variation in BP Ultimate is 98 – 100 RON while normal unleaded ranges between 91 – 93 RON.”
Mr Warren says that in most cases, it’s only when fuel is left in the tank for several months there’s the risk of engine damage. This is much more likely to occur in cars running dual LPG/petrol systems.
“By this time the fuel will have gone dark and gummy and can clag the fuel pump, filter and injectors,” Mr Warren says. It can also leave a lacquer deposit on the inside of the fuel tank which is difficult to remove.
In addition, it’s important to be aware that fuel brews – specifically fuel volatility - varies on a month to month basis. Standards vary from state to state but, generally, volatility is reduced during summer months to reduce evaporative emissions. Mr Whitfield says this typically makes the engine slightly harder to start but there is no change in octane.

RutlandRover wrote:

Now that I think about it, I have been hearing something that sounds like a chorus of crickets from various parts of the dash lately. A kind of "chirping" that happens occasionally. Blend motor noises?


More likely a sticky flap somewhere, leaves in your fans or perhaps fan motor bearings getting dry and tired?

As the aromatics tend to evaporate over time I'd throw in a good dollop of injector cleaner to dissolve any deposits that might be forming. As I have it on the shelf I'd give it a shot of octane booster as well, to perk up the residual Latvian remnants, then use it up until down to the last few gallons.
Then, give it a treat of branded expensive stuff.
On the blue one I do actually run a few gallons of petrol through it every 3 months or so just to get the fuel trims back to where they should be, keep the fuel fresh and injectors clean.

I wonder how long Latvian petrol lasts before it turns to varnish and turps?

Martyuk wrote:

Mine is currently set on the King ECU (I copied the settings as they were set in the old Zavoli ECU) as:
Changeover type: In acceleration
Rev Threshold: 1200
Overlapping time: 0s (should I change this on mine?? was set at 0s on the old ECU and it seems to switch OK?)
Reducer temp for changeover: 35C (though I think I've since tweaked this to 40C as it lets the engine get a little bit warmer, and it seemed to not mess with the fuel trims as much once it had warmed up that little bit more
Change over delay: 30s>
I found with the changeover temp on mine at 30C it would change over when the engine was still running pretty cold, and it didn't seem as happy as if I manually left it on petrol for a bit longer (basically until the temp gauge moved above the blue line) and then switched - so hence upped it to 35, and I think upped it again to 40. It's still running on gas less than a mile from home most of the time..


Mine switches to gas just as I'm at the top of the track to the workshop at the moment. About 1/2 mile.
I'm spoiled by the blue one that starts and runs from cold on gas. The black one has the depressing dropping petrol gauge even though its running on gas. You actually use quite a lot of petrol (relative to the blue one) if you only do short runs several times a day.

Just type in the empty box at bottom and hit green Reply button :)
Don't suppose you have plug-in diagnostics for your system?

A good place to start looking will be at the sensor wires- gas temp and reducer temp. If either of these are disconnected the system will never think its warm enough to change over. On my Zavoli installation both sensor wires are (were) unsheathed and pretty flimsy
Reducer temp sensor wire will be a couple of wires from the outer perimeter of the reducer. Gas temp will likely be a T piece after the vapour filter and before the pipes split to go to the injectors.

Thanks Simon
I'm guessing the 2 second changeover was 1400 RPM? I can't hit as low as 400 :)
Doing some spraying at the moment, while humidity's fairly low, but will plug it in later and see what I can get.