Have a look at this link. It's about using the sat nav head to display a reverse camera, but the conversion's the same
LR Direct
Quinton Hazell water pump STC4378QH.Z8 £48.36 (bought one a few days ago!)
Bearmach Tensioner ERR6439R.M8 £22.85
All plus the dreaded VAT of course, but, like Island, they deliver next day if ordered before 12
Gilbertd wrote:
dhallworth wrote:
there's not a massive amount of work required.
I seem to recall Orangebean saying something similar........
I may have underestimated a tad, but have had a lovely day in the workshop bolting on my shiny new V8Devs heads. One day I hope to actually drive the car :)
Welcome to the Project SE club David. Had a strong sense of deja vu looking at your pictures.
Looks like it'll clean up well. The grubby leather will come back nicely, I sense a front cover oil seal in your future...
Now the fun begins. New battery, plug in the Nano and run through all the systems :)
Morat wrote:
Participants requiring headlinings - 8/9 July
1) Marty - 2 x Original, 1 x Black
2) Smiler - 1 x Original (with Sunroof)
3) Morat - 1 x Original (with Sunroof)
4) Orangebean- 1x Original Lightstone (with sunroof)
Please copy and add your name and requirements to the list to confirm participation.
Thanks for the feedback Marty.
An expert? That's not for me to say, but I am a trained and qualified engineer and have built/ rebuilt many engines over the years, including Rover V8s but never a P38 4.6. Second guessing and indecision on my own? Possibly- it's different to a customer engine 'cos there's a kind of emotional investment when it's your own, a bit like Doctors not treating and diagnosing their own family and friends.
Just looked back at the original discussion around your stud torques, at the time the ARP instructions (which I linked to in Nov 16, the one's currently available on that link were updated in December 16) gave a higher figure. Can't remember what it was off-hand. Up in the 80s? Anyway V8Devs via Gilbertd and V8Tuner via yourself said 70 and I agreed. They're the commercial RV8 tuned engine builders after all and I don't think I gave bad advice by agreeing with what they said. Gilbertd does say above that he decided on 65 for his build even after all that.
I raised the post because I'd forgotten we'd gone into any details on your build thread. I probably post too much on here just 'cos it's just a pub forum where people can just chat about the P38 and I like that and do it.
I'm sorry that my post irritated you, but thanks for taking the time to respond
Gilbertd wrote:
It's the exact same stuff but without the fluorescent dye in it and about a quarter the price........
I've seen a few reports where using K Steel or other variants on the P38 where it happily seals up the bleed pipe hole back into expansion tank.
I might resort to using it if I was stranded miles from nowhere to get me to the recovery truck. Other than that, I'd just fix whatever was causing the leak in the first place. If I'm rebuilding a Stag (no idea why that springs to mind with coolant issues!) or something, finding evidence of sealant in the cooling system is a sign that I'm going to have to spend extra time finding out why it was put in in the first place.
70 lb/ft seems a little high to me too. In a new block with freshly cut threads that would probably work OK, but in a block that's been through many heat cycles and where the threads are already worn I think you'd be coming close to pulling the studs out.
65 lb/ft is a good number!
I'm using Elring as well, so hopefully can emulate your mileage.
Just need Ray to get his machinists finger out and get the heads built now...
ARP have finally moved off the fence and have revised torque settings for head studs. They're now saying final stage torque 70 lb/ft.
Many opinions on the web as to what should be used, but 60 lb/ft seems to be the most popular.
Any thoughts from the forum where the real experts live?!
Edit- just noticed the instructions say torque as per steps 1 - 4 and there are only 3 steps!
You're actively pumping fluid, and air, through the system, so it shouldn't make much difference
Like Gilbertd says, a good spraying with contact cleaner through every orifice, followed by a blow out with some air might well do the trick without surgery. If you decide to go into it and it does spring apart into many pieces, there are used units starting at £8 delivered on the bay at the moment.
mace wrote:
Email from Ray, sounds ominous, asking me to call urgently. :(
Might only be a delay Miah. Delivery of my heads has been moved back to mid next week.
A bit of idle banter about continuing to dismantle the black one until it's a large pile of parts and then just selling the pile of parts Tony.
As for the blue one, that's now trouble free- the coolant level has stayed where it always does and the oil remains, well, fresh oil coloured after a few hundred miles of mixed driving. It could only have been severe condensation.
I will be selling the blue one, once the black one is running again, accurately described- warts and all. With the classic cars and bikes I've built and sold I've been scrupulous about describing them in minute detail. I'm much too small-fry to get repeat business or even to build a reputation, but I treat it as if I am trying to.
Lpgc wrote:
Might as well take the block out at that stage too OB, re-hone the bores, gearbox rebuild etc.. lol
Damn good idea Simon
If I really had a rush of blood to the head I could hone bores without taking block out. :-)
Gearbox, TC, flexplate etc were factory exchange 50k ago but no point in _not _replacing them.
I'm just going to keep on taking bits off until I have a huge pile of parts- then sell 'em.
I'll start with this lot...
Bolleaux
Just found that the high-pressure power steering hose from pump to box is about to die :(
More spends to Island for a Dunlop one I guess. The Britpart or LR ones are too horrible to contemplate for different reasons...
Now this is where the current job has the potential to get silly. Idly sitting planning my day- the thought creeps in...
" Really should drop the sump to clean all the crap out. When the sump's off and heads off it would be really easy to pop the pistons out and re-ring them, and of course with conrods out a new set of big end shells would be great preventative maintenance. If I did big ends, may as well do mains".
I'm my own worst enemy sometimes!
Cheers Chris!
It's not that bad though. I would have expected to have to sort some of the usual P38 afflictions, just not all of them embodied in one car. Ignoring all the cosmetic and routine maintenance stuff, I've only had to do heater matrix upgrade, LPG rebuild, diff replacement, cylinder head, BECM ECU Lockset and one door latch. I haven't even had to touch the EAS (yet!).
Thanks for the offer on the heads. I'm going for the V8 Devs fully rebuilt ones mainly because by the time I'd stripped used ones, put in new valves and guides, had seats recut and heads skimmed (assuming they had enough meat to take a skim without having to bugger around with chamber volumes) and factoring in the cost of my time (all the time I'm spending on this work is taken out of my "earning money" time), coupled with the fact that they just turn up ready to fit, makes the best economic sense to me.
I've used a fine nylon scourer (around a 2400 I think) to clean all the mating surfaces and lots of Loctite 7200 to dissolve carbon deposits. End result looks good.
Like you say though, I'm looking forward to actually driving it. It'd be nice to have the time to get the new workshop build finished as well!
Gilbertd wrote:
Anyway Mark, how flat is the block face? I've never heard of a block warping, I think there's enough stiffening webs cast into it to keep it flat. I've always just given it a light going over with some very fine wet and dry on a sanding block. Even less critical with the top hats as they do the work, not the block face.
It's within 0.0015 inches all over. I've sent all of the metrics (imperials?) to Turners for a second opinion in terms of their manufacturing tolerances.
My real concern wasn't warping, but that the burning from the failed gasket would have eroded material in that area. It looks OK after a clean.
Ordered a new QH water pump yesterday- one of those "while I'm down there" things. Have a new Bearmach thermostat (tested) ready to go on, a few hoses and will pop the rad off and back flush it.
I think Mace and Gordon are in Scotland, so they must be near you. It's only a little place isn't it?!
:)