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Interesting...
Done another set of diagnostics on blue one. Sniff test (petrol and LPG)- zero combustion products in coolant. Compression test- all good. Can't do leak-down as broke gauge (!). Plugs- all similar colour, no steam cleaning effect. Oil flush, fresh oil and filter change. 10 mile run- no sign of coolant loss or oil contamination/ level increase. No overheating. No steam from exhaust.

I think that's why the P.O. gave up with it. After the owner before him who did 200k plus miles and lavished tens of thousands of pounds on mantaining and improving it, it's been standing around pretty much for the last 3 years.
It's had the Turner top-hat short engine in it for 80k. Heads are likely original, so 80k for a HG on stretch bolts is about par for the course.
V8 Devs can't get the heads built until middle of next week, but Ray's dropping the castings off to the machine shop today so they can make a start on them. I did say I couldn't confirm the order until this evening, but he (nice bloke!) said they walk off the shelves anyway so he's happy to get a set knocked up.
EDIT- I did drop yours and Marty's names as satisfied customers. Not sure if that'll speed things up or slow them down!

At least I'll have some company for the next couple of weeks in my "office". Way things are at the moment, it's probably vultures too lazy to circle overhead.
enter image description here

Be nice if mine gives itself up like that. Still, 120 psi of shop air should wheeze through the hole quite nicely.

It doesn't sound that bad in real life! Definitely worse with the filler cap off though.
So- the plan...
Today repeat all the diagnostics stuff I can on the blue one, move it out of the workshop. That'll have to go on the back burner as due to the nature of the problem, I'm not convinced its head gasket. Need a daily driver so...
Black one in. Strip the inlet manifolds off and play spot the blow. Probably do a comp test or at least pressurise the cylinders. If blow confirmed, get new heads and ARP's ordered. Strip off heads and prep for new ones. Wait patiently for heads to arrive. Fit.

I used Fobfix to get one of mine tested, repaired and new case etc. Would heartily recommend

Guess the owner might just have noticed something wrong with the motor then Chris? With the blue one it was just by chance I checked the oil.

That's the strange thing. Mine runs fine. Gas, Petrol. No overheating, no problems.
Same with the blue one. No overheating or misfires. Just a sump full of milkshake. Doing diagnostics on the blue one currently. Dropped my leakdown tester so awating a new gauge for that, but will do comp test and sniff test tomorrow.
Pretty innit?!
enter image description here

Oh well. Unfortunately I think I've found the answer.
Gordon, Gilbertd and Chris share the prize. Blow into centre V I believe. Pushing oil out from back of valley gasket and, the clincher, took off filler cap and it was like an extra exhaust pipe! Video here, but you can't really hear it due to fan noise.
Trust me- it's really chuffing vapour through the filler cap.
Sh!t and double sh!t. Another set of heads to do. Best crack on and finish the blue one...
EDIT- V8Devs at £495/pair looks attractive at the moment. No time to bugger around refurbing/ machining/ fettling existing ones.

Bank A is certainly higher:
enter image description here

Just out of interest, having just done a standing run with Nano:
Idle to 2000 rpm then back to idle, zero misfires recorded BUT "roughness" on Bank 1 generally and especially when dropping back from 2000 rpm to idle is higher than Bank 2:
enter image description here

Just done a full run on the Nano- no faults logged except:
NANOCOM - MOTRP38.APP - MOTRONIC fault file

P1000 = LAMBDA SENSOR UPSTREAM
CATALYST BANK 2 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 19 TIMES
SIGNAL MISSING
FAULT IS NOT CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS INTERMITTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P0155 = LAMBDA SENSOR HEATER UPSTREAM
CATALYST BANK 2 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 4 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO LOW
FAULT IS NOT CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS INTERMITTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION

I trust your ears too! Mine agree with you!
The engine is as smooth as a smooth thing. You could balance a coin on the rocker cover (in theory)
As far as Nano and the missfire, from the Bosch SID:

Misfire detection
Legislation requires that the ECM must be able to detect the presence of an engine misfire. It must be able to detect misfires at two separate levels. The first level is a misfire that could lead to the vehicle emissions exceeding 1.5 times the allowable levels for this engine. The second
level is a misfire that may cause catalyst damage.
The ECM monitors the number of misfire occurrences within two engine speed ranges. If the ECM detects more than a predetermined number of misfire occurrences within either of these two ranges, over two consecutive ‘journeys’, the ECM will illuminate the MIL. The ECM will also
record details of the engine speed, engine load and engine coolant temperature. In addition, the ECM monitors the number of misfire occurrences that happen in a ‘window’ of 200 engine revolutions. The misfire occurrences are assigned a ‘weighting’ of the likely impact to the catalysts. If the number of misfires exceeds a certain value, the ECM stores catalyst-damaging fault codes, along with the engine rpm, engine load and engine coolant temperature. It will also flash the MIL lamp until the misfires no longer exceed the predetermined number. After the flashing stops, the ECM will continue to illuminate the MIL lamp until the fault is rectified.
The signal from the crankshaft position sensor indicates how fast the poles on the flywheel are passing the sensor tip. A sine wave is generated each time a pole passes the sensor tip. The ECM can detect variations in flywheel speed by monitoring the sine wave signal supplied by the
crankshaft position sensor.
By assessing this signal, the ECM can detect the presence of an engine misfire. At this time, the ECM will assess the amount of ‘variation’ in the signal received from the crankshaft position sensor and assigns a ‘roughness’ value to it. This roughness value can be viewed within the
real time monitoring feature, using TestBook. The ECM will evaluate the signal against a number of factors and will decide whether to count the occurrence or ignore it. The ECM can assign a roughness and misfire signal for each cylinder, (i.e. identify which cylinder is misfiring).:

If it was missing, it'd show on the Nano "cylinder missfires" log. There would also be something in the "roughness" log. Nothing recorded.
I was thinking perhaps a cracked exhaust manifold. Gap heals itself when engine warms up.

Not warm yet Tony- coils are new, Nano is not reporting any missing cylinders. I can't give the answer yet though, 'cos I don't know :)
Edit- I do know that I can't keep up with the maintenance needed to keep even one of these things on the road at the moment. Workshop currently full of- TR6 halfway through restoration, blue P38 for head job and a Defender for some rust repair. No room at the inn for the black one :(

I don't think its got cancer, or at least I hope not!
HG- I think you might be getting warm Gordon. No misfires logged on Nano run, no coolant loss, no water in oil. When last leak-down checked (around 200 miles ago) no leak down issues. Compressions checked at same time. all 160 ish with no great variations between pots.
I'm really hoping its not HG though. Blue one's already in the operating theatre for HGs.

Black car has suddenly developed an engine noise when starting from cold. Thought I'd make it interesting, so I'm prepared to reward the successful, or closest guesser with a bottle of half decent Red or a 6 pack of ale. The prize will be awarded at Summer Camp!
The noise is best heard on the vid if you have half-decent speakers on your computer. If you don't it just sounds like a tinny tappet rattle.
I'd describe it as a whoop whoop noise coupled with a noisy tappet noise. Sounds like a Chinook helicopter doing a tight turn, if that helps!
The noise goes away once engine is warm. Does it on petrol or LPG.
Video is here.
Enjoy the lovely Devon views as you put your engineers ears on!

RutlandRover wrote:

Are the front hubs etc the same then? I'd have thought that the hubs would be different on 4 wheel TC vehicles to accommodate the sensors and exciter rings.


Same hubs etc- they use the existing ABS sensors for information

They're generally not repairable, but Marty is working on a replacement. Have a read of this thread
There's a guy on another forum who's looking for failed DSP amps with a view to repairing them. No idea if he's had any luck though.

RutlandRover wrote:

I changed the rear brake pads last Friday. Took the cap off to allow the fluid to move while pushing the caliper pistons back in. That shouldn't have allowed air in to the system though - the fluid level would have gone up, not down.


It could just be a coincidence, although steps 13-19 of bleed process does relate to rear brakes.