Thanks Chris. The more leathery fiddling I do, the quicker and easier it gets. I've got a bit more of a feel now of how much heat to use from the heat gun, dye dilutions and airbrush settings that work best and just how wet you can get the seats when steaming them without losing the "tone" from the leather.
I've put new Mintex on both of mine and find them really positive. Haven't managed to get them to fade yet.
I'd go for:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-P38-BEARMACH-FRONT-VENTED-BRAKE-DISCS-MINTEX-FRONT-BRAKE-PADS-OEM-/171695282092?
or for all Mintex
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SFP500150-Land-Rover-Discovery-2-TD5-Range-Rover-P38-MINTEX-Front-Brake-Pads-/291511390777?
plus
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-MINTEX-FRONT-BRAKE-DISCS-2x-DISCS-MDC984-/391085685336?
The steamer isn't that great at fixing holes. That part of it was down to me. Hole fixing wasn't too bad once I grasped the concept, and the repair is pretty invisible, but the larger the hole the trickier it is to match the grain of the leather.
Time to do a leak-down test on that pot. If coolant getting into combustion chamber there's a good chance that when you apply air pressure it'll bubble out through the cooling system (do it with cap off expansion tank)
Assuming #8 is the right hand one in pic, and it's been in for the same time as the others, then yes, it does look suspiciously clean.
I may be wrong, but I don't think "Engine Immobilised" is the same as BECM/ engine ECU lost sync. Mind you the diesels do their security stuff slightly differently.
I'd think that high-powered "wideband" RF noise can still overwhelm the receiver. Maybe it's smart enough to think it's being attacked and lock itself down? Doubt it though.
Does it always immobilise in the same place, or is it random?
Ta Tony- it's coming on slowly.
Spent a bit of time with a bucket of soapy water on it today, washing off years of crap, to work out how to deal with the bodywork.
The oxidised chips and blemishes are all below the waist rubbing strips so no need for a full respray (thank your deity of choice!). Worst case I'll spray the bottom quarter of it, including front bumper. It's been lovingly keyed along both sides, the drivers mirror cover is badly road rashed as well so there's a fair bit to do.
On the plus side Now have working #1 and #2 key fobs and the 3rd Gen receiver installed and all locking stuff functions correctly.
With the confidence gained from my seat repairs I can repair the rear door cards so no need to replace/ modify new ones. I will need to get some Lightstone boot cards as the flocked cloth stuff on the ones I have is tatty.
That's enough for today though. Have to mow the croquet lawn and trample down the divots on the Polo field :)
Might be the cruise vacuum line that runs (ran) from CC to brake pedal
That's a weird one George. The fronts operate on the hydrostatic AND power systems so you should get something. Don't suppose you've got a vacuum bleeder handy?
Just looking at the fluid flow info:
Hydrostatic circuit - Consists of servo cylinders
supplied by master cylinder pressure. The front
calipers are supplied with direct hydraulic energy from
the servo cylinders, comprising a combination of
master cylinder pressure and direct hydraulic power.
So, for some reason the master cylinder isn't getting/ supplying fluid
Warm it up then use an IR thermometer to follow the coolant flow. When you hit a cold(er) spot, that's where the air is.
Keep on bleeding and burping the top hose. You'll get the air out in the end.
Re the heater- are both of your fans actually working?
No time would be a good time to say that!
Too much of a coincidence that it happened at the same time all electrics to that door failed for not opening to be a mechanical problem.
But- does the internal lock feel normal (not floppy or rigid)?
I assume you can't open from either inside or outside handle?
Not a fuse cos F9 and F22 are common to both sides.
Better wait for Marty to pass by with suggestions as to where you can apply power or an earth or whatever to get the door open for starters!
There are a couple of connectors in the door jamb area. That's where I'd start looking.
Well, last confirmed by a punter to mylpg that it had LPG on 27th March 2017 :)
Perhaps they hide the LPG pump round the back or something?
That has stumped me. I was going to have my next RR converted to LPG professionally then found nowhere here sells the bloody stuff
This one gone out of business in the last 3 months then Shep?:
https://www.mylpg.eu/stations/united-kingdom/station/Total-Garage-John-Darke-Volvo-EB0A7912-B878-EEDE-AC0B-4DBAD5E91886
Had this on the black one. After taking bleed nipple completely out and cleaning (no change), I just tapped the pedal lightly and fluid appeared.
Just one of those P38 quirks I think.
They'd know the difference if they had the LR bible to hand though-
The steaming's the easy bit! It's what it reveals to repair that's bum clench time.
What takes the time is abrading back the surface without destroying the leather. It's a very thin line. Repairing the tears and filling the cracks that are too deep to refinish also takes ages. Re-dyeing is easy, although masking the piping is tedious.
All in all, while I'm happy to experiment on my own stuff, I'd hate to be responsible for buggering up someone else's pride and joy. I'll bring the steamer and you can have a go at turning your own seats into something too nice to sit on without a paper oversuit if you like. :)
As I said in a previous post, I'm happy to have a go at sorting out your rust patch on the roof. If that goes wrong, only people over 6'8" will ever see it!
I share your views on the interior- should be all black. Seats, carpets, trim panels, head lining, the lot. I'd even do the wheels in a shadow chrome effect. Thinking about it, then I'd have a Linley.
Unfortunately I need to keep it factory original, as that's where the value is if I decide to sell this one rather than the blue one. That means having to live with an interior that looks like a porn stars bedroom. Actually, rather than doing the headlining at Summer Camp, I might just fit a full-length mirror up there...
The very same pile of shit!
I'm trying to prove you CAN polish a turd :)
Progress report...
Front half of interior now all back in and restored to as close to as it rolled out of the showroom as I can get it. Really needed the carpets dyeing but I got bored with searching for Lightstone carpet dye and just steam cleaned them. They're a bit faded, but the mats cover most of them anyway.
So, Audi matrix in- no faults on HEVAC, stereo works (and sounds really good), Grom in and works as it should, factory nav still works and I've managed to find a 2015 disk for it (not loaded yet). Gear selector cable replaced. Steering wheel kind of needs a refresh, but I don't yet have the Ash Grey dye. It can wait until I get a new cotton reel (old one's done 280 000 miles and must be getting tired although no faults yet).
Headliner temporarily repaired until Summer Camp and a new one.
Some interior "after" pics:
and the temporary headliner fix
So tomorrow, 4 new UJ's to go in. Old ones look a bit neglected, no bills for replacements ever and I've found 4 GKN joints for £10 each, so may as well replace them.
After that, back seats and boot area, but next week I'm going to take it away on a bit of a road trip for a few days to put some miles on it.