Impressive spec Miah! 0 to spendy in 2 weeks :)
Don't forget to budget to sort out any rocker wear and a shim kit for same. Maybe new front cover if old one's worn too.
Aragorn wrote:
perhaps the brake pump?
Might be, if air in system.
From RAVE bleeding process:
NOTE: If ABS pump makes a ticking noise
when running during this procedure,
repeat instructions 13. to 19. When the
bleed procedure has been successfully
completed, the ABS pump will not make any
ticking noises.
You'll need the appropriate software (config/ diagnostics) if you're doing a DIY install anyway. With the appropriate interface cable to a suitable laptop the software is usually available as a download with a bit of Googling.
As far as maintenance, once it's calibrated and running sweetly, just a couple of filters to change periodically and a look over all pipes and joints to check condition is all it needs.
Car will need to be running correctly on petrol (trims etc) with good leads and plugs before you do the conversion. As explained above, the LPG system takes its cues from the petrol system injector timings so if they're out for any reason, the LPG will be too.
There's not much back there that could possibly make a ticking noise!
Cruise ECU and Inverter or (really obscure) brake switch vent valve are the only components behind the binnacle.
Did you have CC master switched on at the time?
Refurb diff and new prop UJs now fitted. Took it out for an instrumented (on Nano) run today, mainly just to check for high speed vibrations, whines, wheel imbalance, that kind of thing. All good which is nice.
What's not so good is the Nano suddenly started beeping in a panicky kind of way -coolant temperature warning. Needle on temp gauge steady just below centre, like it always is.
Idle along for a bit to take heat load off. Warning stopped. Read data and sure enough water temp was running between 95 and 100.
Fan's good, water seems to be circulating happily judging by the jet squirting back into tank. Check rad (new RR rad and water pump fitted 80000 miles ago), bottom cold as was pipe to thermostat. Time for a new thermostat I think. Hooray, I get to drain the cooling system again!
I wonder whether it's actually material quality. I think it's more likely to be the cr@p state of our roads these days giving wheels, tyres, suspension, exhaust mounts etc a hammering they were never designed to take.
The roads round here are starting to resemble what the would have been in the early 1900s with the top dressing breaking away, potholes everywhere and the splash and dash point repairs failing after a month or two.
Back on the road with a replacement diff fitted and prop UJs replaced. Definitely could have done with Bob's help lifting it back in, but wussed out and used my transmission jack instead.
The pinion bolt on the old one was definitely loose, but tightening it to spec resulted in the diff feeling tight. I suspect the pinion bearing has started to fail. I'll investigate in more depth once I've sorted the water in oil problem on the blue one.
Only other thing I can think of, as you have the nut type.
The nut is a nylock. Did you put a new one on, or loctite if you re-used the original?
Do you mean you removed the diff pinion flanged end from the diff? I imagine so as you can't change the seal without doing it!
If so, did you re-torque it to the right numbers- either bolt 100Nm or nut 129Nm?
These numbers are critical as they determine the preload on the pinion gear. It they're off you will either have too much preload and a whiny self destructing diff, too little preload and you'll have a vibrating clunky self destructing diff! Guess which one i think?!
As for the UJs, even new ones need greasing after installation. Thereafter give them a shot every time you do an oil change. The perfect time to check the UJs would have been when you had the prop disconnected to do the diff seal as they need to be checked with no load.
7th/ 8th of which month Marty? Can't see any coming months where those dates fall on a Sat/ Sun.
Bit of corrosion in the unlock switch on the fob?
Batteries in fob getting tired?
Other similar fobs near to you transmitting while you were off shopping and confusing the receiver?
I'm going with an RF problem- maybe Wickes and B&Q have a special on wireless doorbells, garage openers or wireless smoke detectors?!
Do you have a Gen 3 receiver?
mace wrote:
Since we're talking about tools, would a dial bore gauge be an easier to use tool than a internal bore micrometer? Presumably there are jobs for which both have their merits?
Dial bore gauge will give you an easier way to measure through the entire cylinder as you get an instant reading of range when you move it.
You can measure the same with an internal micrometer, but you need to record the difference in increments, which takes longer. Accuracy then depends on how many measurements you record.
So, as a comparison gauge an internal dial gauge is quicker and potentially better at measuring change. Internal micrometer at measuring pure size.
mace wrote:
If I have to measure everything, then that presumably means that I can't order bearings etc until the measurements have been performed after receiving the machined block back.
You should be able to do it when stripping engine before sending to machinists.
It'll only be the crank journals to measure 'cos they'll bore/ hone liners to suit existing pistons. Be an idea to stick new rings on though- you'll know what size existing pistons are so can get rings in advance and hand them over with block to machinists.
For crank journals you could plastigauge existing bearings which will give you running tolerance. Bit of maths and you'll then know whether crank requires grinding. For extra peace of mind, although plastiguage can be used for ovality checks, you can check for ovality with your micrometer. Doesn't need to be in calibration for ovality checks as you're looking for difference rather than pure size.
Re the checking bearing clearances etc you don't need big bucks kit.
Plastigauge does the job nicely:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Plastigauge-Precision-Clearance-Gauge-0-007-020-0-175mm-0-5mm-Bearing-/371172227641?
Something like this is always useful:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Adjustable-Micrometer-Set-Vintage-Moore-and-Wright-/201886089427?
Together with one of these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Moore-Wright-2-to-12-Internal-Bore-Micrometer-Set-/272631276875?
and to complete your metrics set:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Professional-Dial-test-indicator-DTI-gauge-magnetic-base-stand-clock-gauge/281638025978?
EDIT- got my juices flowing when I was searching for the tools above- I love vintage engineering tools, so I bought this for a silly offer price much less than the listing:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371914653881
To give your budget even more of a treat, you could remove the old liners yourself!
https://youtu.be/8V7SMhO70ss
https://youtu.be/JX2KtMuWogU
Similar cost to:
http://www.johnealesroverv8.co.uk/18.html
or an even cheaper solution:
http://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/ductile-iron-flanged-liner-c2x20634989?PGFLngID=1 and have the machining done by the shop of your choice
A strange coincidence that both the GEMS and Thor top-hat engines he's selling have 25000 miles on them?
Ta Chris
Tony- I'd look around at the real world if only I could get out from under the car occasionally. I can only vaguely remember the days when nipples, other than the greasing kind, existed...
RutlandRover wrote:
Are they determining left/right relative to sitting in the driver's seat or standing at the front looking the vehicle?
A good philosophical point :)