Aragorn wrote:
usually the difference is the bleed nipple position. If you fit them on the wrong sides, the nipple ends up at the bottom.
Both nipples are above the centre line. Strange!
Orange like this:
Or black like this:
Reassembling the black one after diff surgery I noticed the following:
Right Caliper:
Left Caliper:
Now I didn't disturb the calipers, so although I'm famous for not being able to tell my left from right, I didn't mistakenly put them back on incorrectly. Thing is, the brakes work fine, hose alignment is fine.
Anyone else noticed this on theirs, or is it just a d!ckhead previous mechanic? I can't think of any reason to swap them back and have to bugger around bleeding brakes until I put new discs on some time in the future.
Ferry/ Gilbertd- you're right, I'm now RROB :)
Aragorn wrote:
Is it normal for the brake pump to run for ages at first startup?
Define ages!
From standing for a while cold, both of mine run the brake pump for around 8s, the TC light goes out after around 5s
If you can spin the steering wheel with the flat of your hand like that, I don't think it's overly "draggy".
Can't hear any sound on your vid though. :(
The answer to groaning could be:
"They all do that" depending on how loud the noise is! The system needs to dump a bit of fluid pressure when it reaches the lock stops or it would burst seals and things. A fluid flush would be next on the list, in case the fluid is contaminated or the wrong fluid (should be Dex3).
As for stiffness, as Ferry says, the adjusting nut could be tight.
Download RAVE. The owners manual is in there. Seats, mirrors, memory, everything you'll possibly want to adjust....
http://rangerovers.pub/static/rave.zip
Worth checking your brake pads in case someone's fitted Sh!tpart or something in the past. Fitted Mintex pads to the blue one and got a great pedal and plenty of feel without having to push too hard.
Fitted Mintex to the black one and at the moment the pedal is heavier than the blue one as pads haven't bedded in fully yet.
I was going to suggest the Grom (as long as you have a CD changer to substitute it for). I'm rather in love with mine at the moment :)
Only disadvantage with the Pure unit is that you'd have to use it in FM rebroadcaster mode as there's no Aux in function on the standard DSP kit. Advantage is you get DAB. Grom haven't yet ported their DAB dongle to the BT3.
Congrats on the MOT. Any advisories?
As Marty says, the brake lines aren't too bad, especially when you have access to a ramp, which I think you do?
Sloth's the guru though.
I've never worked on a diesel P38, but I've read enough forum posts to know that tuning chips sold for these have very mixed results- a lot of those on eBog are snake oil and you have to fit the right type to get the most from the motor. Lots of time spent trawling the forums would be time well spent (and won't involve getting covered in cr@p so that's a plus!).
Online consensus seems to be that the way to get the most from a chip is to fit a larger intercooler and free flowing exhaust as the increased charge temps turn the head into a service item as cracking becomes a problem.
To do all the right things to make your 135 German ponies grow into 180 reliable horses will be getting pretty spendy. Rather than spending that money on it maybe you'd be better selling your now getting lovely diesel, adding the cash you would have spent on chipping etc and getting a 4.6 V8?
EDIT- there would be the cost of the extra insurance premium for a "performance modified" vehicle to add to the spends as well
Bob prepares to change another diff....
Send him on down then!
And they're 'kin heavy when you're lying on your back. Heavier than I remember, or maybe I'm just getting old?
So, having got stuck into it, the longest bit is getting everything clean before removing. Spannering only takes 1hr (with tea breaks)!
I can't remember that far back in the history of your car, Marty will know more, but it certainly sounds like the drivers door latch has got intermittent microswitches. A new door latch may well be the answer - to that bit at least.
Marty sells them so wait for him to drop by...
Not exactly a pearl of wisdom to offer, but have you checked that the pinouts on your old fitted loom are exactly the same as the one still in the box for the new one? I found a couple of bridging links at the ECU connector (loom end plug) on mine that weren't the same as the schematics.
Maybe take a breath before smashing the piggy bank on a short engine. If it turns out to be a cracked head or something you're out the cash and no further forward.
A day popping the heads and confirming the liner crack could save a lot of financial pain
My Turner in the black one has 98000 miles on it and still looks like this when you pop the lid:
RPI did the LPG work on my blue one and if that is an example of their attention to detail I'd not go there myself
Morat wrote:
Well, I quickly came to the conclusion that it was money well spent. The moment those door pins clunked up was worth £300.
If you like you can come and listen to mine for £50 a time...