Don't think we've got anyone on here near Coventry.
Maybe try posting all the details on LandyZone International Rescue
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/forum/landyzone-international-rescue.75/
Can't personally recommend as never tried it and don't frequent that forum, but looks like they've been able to help people out in rather stuck circumstances...

On a Thor you have an intake section at top centre of engine that looks like a bunch of bananas, on a GEMS it's a big rectangular box with 4.0 or 4.6 cast into it.
It sounds as if you may have a latch microswitch problem, in which case, assuming your BECM is version 36 (late one) you can input the EKA with a Nanocom Evo or similar as you've said above.
As an alternative you can replace the drivers door latch. Marty on here can supply them and is an invaluable source of latch and BECM information and repair.
http://p38webshop.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=60
The version number of the BECM will be on the label on it.
So now you need someone with a Nano/ Faultmate or similar in the Coventry area or change your latch.

Also I have a 99 P38

You're getting there! Is it a diesel, GEMS or Thor?
What happened to bring on the engine disabled message? What were you doing? Was vehicle parked locked and did battery go flat or something? Exactly what is the Message Centre displaying?
You might find that the sidelight warning light on panel flashes rather than indicators. On re-reading your post is it only when you turn key anticlockwise that you don't get a response?
Give as much detailed info as you can as it'll help with diagnosis...

Vacuum hose from vacuum pump to brake pedal. I've replaced the short bits with fuel hose, but the local place only stocks it in one metre lengths, and I'm not sure whether that will be too thick to fit through the firewall? Suggestions for where I can get something suitable that's long enough, without paying through the nose?

I find eBog a valuable source for stuff like that. In fact, due to being on the edge of the middle of nowhere I do most of my parts shopping etc online. Not sure of the internal diameter of the vac pipe, but as an example a quick search found 128 hits like this one
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Samco-Silicone-5mm-ID-ORANGE-Vacuum-Tube-Air-Breather-Hose-For-Cars-Motorbike-/220826623694?
Nice lurid colour too! I'm sure you'll find something less garish if you dig.

I'll have a look. All I did was take return from cooler off at box end. Jury rig (and I'm going from my increasingly flaky memory here) a hose onto it using a bit of old inner tube to catch bowl. Run engine- with unwilling assistant "driving" and move through gears (brakes hard on!) while force pouring trans oil down dipstick tube, with a tool that looks like a 1/2 litre syringe on steroids until oil coming into bowl looked clean. Then drain box, off with pan, change filter + O rings, put return pipe back on, fill with clean oil to level as per book. Job messily done!
I'll see if I can find a link somewhere that might explain a bit better...

The flush is more of a pain on the Thor without the dipstick pipe anyway. You have to make a hose fitting to screw in place of the fill plug, all of which takes time.
Fingers crossed that your suction pipe stays intact. Like I said, of all the one that I've done, it didn't break :)

Can't help on that one Tony- apart from to say that when I did it, it didn't break!
I did do the full flush technique and have to warn you that, although effective at replacing all of the system fluid rather than part, however much care you take, it's messy and obviously uses a lot of Dex 3!
How much is the suction pipe? If cheap it probably makes sense to have one to hand. Saves having car off the road waiting for parts.

According to the internet, which is never wrong (!) R134a refrigerant is commonly used with copper pipes.
Here's some blurb relating to life tests in Heat Pipe/ R134a applications...
https://www.1-act.com/compatible-fluids-and-materials/

Spot on! Good supposition.

Gilbertd wrote:

I suppose people could have been asked to upload details of their journeys under the pretext of identifying areas of congestion?

Why not go to Pirtek with the bits and ask them to make up a new one?
As far as copper goes, should be OK, but there are regs around wall thickness etc
Page 12 onwards in this doc has guidelines for copper tube in commercial refrigeration installations
http://www.ior.org.uk/ior_/images/pdf/BRA-IoRGuidetoGoodcommrefpractice-Part4-%20System%20Installation_2_.pdf

The bit that's interesting Dave is the fact there's no interface or connection to GPRS. The receiver unit/ brain is in the boot behind the trim, next to the SatNav Drive and the labelled part of the loom plugs into the Satnav head unit. The SatNav itself "talks" through the centre dash speaker rather than the front door speakers on "normal" satnav P38s, so I'm thinking TrafficMaster will talk through there too, so is it picking up location from the GPS unit I wonder? Sounds a bit too techy for 2002!
I have the full leather bound set of manuals for the car (incl audio and nav) but no mention of TrafficMaster.

While pottering around refitting the dash/ fascia and tidying up loom bodges I found this original label on the loom connecting to SatNav head:

Now I know that the TrafficMaster system was fitted to (I think) Westminsters and Vogue SE A's. I also know that it was somehow fed by those blue speed-camera like boxes on main road bridges etc, it warned of congestion ahead by traffic density counts and was switched off in 2012.
What I don't know is how that information manifested itself in the P38.
A voice on the radio? An indication on the SatNav?
I'd be interested as an archaeological curiousity if anyone knows...

my only other note, and semi-question... when I took the upper manifold off, there seemed to be a fair amount of oil (not gushing, but more than I expected) coming from the inlet tracts... any thoughts on this?
Both rocker covers were completely cleaned/de coked/gunged, and on the RH one (LH from the front of the engine looking back) had a new oil separator fitted too during the rebuild...

I had the same thing when I was first doing top end work on the new one. Did the same cleaning (not that they needed it) and replaced the separator.
Ultimately decided it was one of those things that just goes on un-noticed in these engines, maybe when they sit around idling, or with low manifold vacuum or high manifold vacuum or something. Second time I took top plenum off- nothing!
I've decided to live with/ forget it. Doesn't leak, use oil, smoke, smell oily, excellent compressions, no leak down.
Could put a temporary catch bottle on it and find out exactly how much is coming out, but I don't think I really want to know!

Mic up the unworn part of the valve. Top bit inside spring is good. Then you'll know how knackered your micrometer is :)
You don't have to fit new valves/ guides. As long as faces/ seats can be lapped together without completely buggering up the seat angles and valve doesn't slap around the guide too much, you could just stick on a new seal and be done with it!
Depends, I suppose, on what you want from the car. As I illustrated above somewhere, the ripple effect kicks in and you end up completely rebuilding the engine- a spendy process, just ask Marty and Ferryman!

RAVE also available here:
http://rangerovers.pub/static/rave.zip

Sounds positive, although the pop test isn't a great indicator on an engine with as many miles as yours. The valve tops tend to mushroom slightly over time. That, combined with carbon build up in the guides, will pop, even on badly worn stems/ guides.
Time to get the micrometer out! Dimensions/ tolerances are page 7 Overhaul manual- Cylinder head.

That's interesting Marty. We now have a very similar gas setup. Only difference is the injectors as I'm running the Zavoli badged matrix type.
It'll be interesting to compare maps, once we're both happy that our calibration is as good, as the only difference will be your Torquemax and injector setup.

Bill him for storage :)

Good point Gilbertd. Mine is a very late Thor and it looked like the machining of the spark plug housing had been changed. The NGK 6ES plugs are cheaper than the 6N-11's but not much use if they don't fit!

TPS best checked with an old fashioned analogue multimeter. It's just a potentiometer so move it slowly through its travel and monitor the resistance rising/ falling with no glitches.