Going to have another go through the wiring tomorrow, just in case, when my new probing multimeter arrives. It was so cold yesterday that the probe broke off the old one!
Lpgc wrote:
Wonder what went wrong with your old ECU, since it was working before you started any work? Since a sure fire quick way to destroy an ECU is to apply 12V to chassis or earth connection while the other earth is actually connected to earth, might be worth one more check of wiring.
BTW what setting should I be using in LPG setup for number of coils? I've set mine as 2 'cos that's how many coils I've got :)
Fuel type: LPG
Injectors: Matrix
Inj: Sequential
Gas pressure 1.1 bar (should be 1.5 for Super reducer but can't change it)
Revolution signal: Standard
Cylinders:8
Ignition type: 2 coils
Change over: accel
Revs threshold:1600
EDIT- there seems to be a Tacho option
TACHOMETER 2: select this option when in a 6- or 8-cylinder vehicle (with the BROWN wire
connected to the tachometer), RPMs are not being gauged correctly.
Should I be using that?!"
I thought that (or something like it) might be the case for the LPG side.
Doesn't explain the petrol (Motronic) discrepancy though.
Found a data run I did when I first got the car (on its original Motronic ECU) and it's showing the same discrepancy.
It's not the TPS, which ties in pretty well perfectly to the throttle valve position. Here's a data capture I did (without engine running!) where I increased the throttle pedal position in steps.
That's alright- I laughed too!
Got some weirdness happening with rpm at Gas ECU AND Motronic at the moment. Target rpm and actual rpm don't coincide on Nano. LPG ECU is reporting the Target rpm as actual rpm.
Tacho agrees with actual engine speed.
Idling fine
Data from engine start (cold) to stat open. No throttle input except a blip at the end of the data.
F ing thing's run out of gas half way through auto calibration :(
No signs of life from old ECU.
Setup from scratch on new ECU it is then. Plugged in new ECU. Switch lit up happily. Software v6.05 talks to ECU. Sees it as 8 cylinders.
Happy days
Now to read the setup manual...
Shame you can't remember the manufacturer Gilbertd.
A little bit of play in the video! It does sound as if the impeller and shaft are no longer as one. Fingers crossed that's the case or I fear for the front cover.
Just loading a clean version of 4.6.1 for a last- ditch effort to get calibration files off old ECU.
If fails, will just drop in new ECU, load v6 software and start from scratch
A couple of these?
http://tinleytech.co.uk/shop/lpg-parts/aeb-124-for-sgis-n-inj-emulation/
I'll see how I get on with the new ECU first...
Replacement ECU has arrived. It's a C, as I thought.
Wonder if it'll work...
The post mortem results on the pump will be interesting, although I imagine it'll be difficult to determine what broke first.
Air in the bags is fine through the cold spell. I'm finding I'm losing around 5psi/ week from all of my tyres on both cars though. Strange...
Ref the big resistors, that's what I was thinking, based on the fact that there are 8 of them and they're a high power rating, which is what the engine ECU would expect to see where it was looking for injectors
Board definitely looks heat damaged both under those resistors and in the vicinity of the large brown capacitor in centre-ish area. Tracing some of the circuitry back, I'm going for the brown capacitor hot area is the 12v solenoid switching area of the board.
Well, I have to get it working first- can't get data out otherwise!
The 5V power supply is a:
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/low-dropout-voltage-regulators/5335610/
Only 500mA output current.
The 8 big resistors mid right look a bit heat damaged, but it could just be the sealant that the whole board's been sprayed with.
Lpgc wrote:
I don't think there'll be a problem loading B calibration file into C ECU. Calibration should be almost right, but if 5V issue has been causing incorrect pressure and temp readings calibration may need minor adjustments after the upload.
Which is exactly what I did!
davew wrote:
Thanks, a helpful tip! Guess you could tie-wrap it in on the plastic ones but I now will stick to (lubricated) metal !
If my experience of the plastic ones is anything to go by, the slot where the cable outer engages wears and the outers can slip out. The metal ones obviously won't have that problem. My vote would go with the metal.
At least you've picked the warmest day of the year to hang out in Marty's workshop. Should make your sitting around the barbecue in shorts and tee shirt an experience reminiscent of Summer Camp.
Enjoy the day- and the drive home with toasty toes...
EDIT- down here in England's greenhouse it's currently plus 1.8 degrees, gusts to 15mph. According to my weather station that's giving a "feels like" of minus 1.6 degrees!
Mintex pads and standard type discs on both of mine. Lovely pedal feel- much more positive than the LR genuine ones that were fitted when I got them. Haven't had any fade or squeal issues even when emulating Morat's driving style round the lanes.
You're right Marty. Opening the tin was the last resort though.
Now I've got a replacement ECU on the way, I can happily get the tin opener out and have a dig around inside. Also means I can work in the house, in the warm!