Don't touch that button!!!
It's for the Motronic on a Disco 2 which works differently...
No need to reset adaptives after changing leads, coils, plugs. Only relevant for fuel/ air related items.
Looks about right. I kind of followed my nose through the menus, so not sure how many pages you click through etc, but your method above in terms of key position 2 , Motronic first, write down code, key off, into BECM alarm settings, enter new code, write settings is correct.
Don't forget to reset adaptives. Wouldn't hurt to clean contacts in connectors before you fit replacement ECU either.
It'd be sat on the drive for most of its life with fuel consumption like that. Maybe with an LPG conversion?!
OldShep56 wrote:
Trying to convince the missus this will look good sat on the drive lol
She told me NO :o((((
Humour is all that keeps us going!
Humour, duct tape and cable ties anyway!
I don't think the value/ price of them has started going up due to them being classic just yet. As time passes the number of cared for low mileage unmolested ones becomes smaller and there's an even smaller number of them that actually sell for any kind of premium.
The amount of time, fettling and polishing you've put in on yours puts it quite high up on the value stakes (to you anyway), buy another one and you'll just end up having to do all the same stuff again.
Time to stop dreaming and learn to love The Duchess again :)
I was also thinking that the price was good and I wouldn't be able to do much cheaper than that if I did all of the messing around and sourcing bits (apart from the machining) myself.
Shame I don't need new heads- this week anyway!
Cost varies, as you'd expect, but from a reputable builder like:
http://www.v8developments.co.uk/products/heads/standard_4.0_4.6/index.shtml
Many cheaper back-street alternatives are available from eBog and the like, but you get what you pay for!
Of course, if you go down this road you'll want to do the rockers, if you do that, may as well do cam and followers, which, of course will need new timing chain/ gears and, while you've got the cover off, a new oil pump. If that far into the engine, new shells and, as you're there, may as well drop in a new set of rings...
+1 on Gilbertd's view.
Worth measuring first, to make sure they've got a skim left in them though, as you've no idea how many times they've been through the mill before.
If skim required is in excess of that, you're in rocker shim territory or, in extremes, the head will require a lot of additional work to combustion chambers etc.
O ring measurements as attached pic Marty
All are as good as I can get with a vernier, as I don't have an O ring gauge
Martyuk wrote:
I don't suppose one of you guys with the kit and a digital caliper would be able to measure the width of the rubber part of the O-ring for the 3 which go on the bit with the filter? I thought they were 1.5mm, but having fitted them to that unit, I'm not thinking they are a bit bigger.. I measured the groove they sit in at about 2mm, but wouldn't mind a second opinion before I go and put it all back together!
Generally water doesn't flow uphill. Although there may be a wicking effect from top of windscreen sealant, a wet headlining is more likely sunroof drains or sealant failing in the metalwork.
Have a look at Tony's thread here for ideas.
Too late now as you've had it done, but if you'd found the windscreen sealant had failed it could have been repaired in situ with a gun of mastic for a couple of quid.
Beware of falling into the trap of throwing money at a problem until you're sure of the cause.
IMO the end result of that is getting rid of the car saying that these are unreliable and ridiculously expensive to maintain!
That particular sensor only provides two inputs to the function of the HEVAC:
- At cold startup if reported coolant temperature is low, the ECU delays blowers to avoid cold air being force circulated. As coolant temp rises the ECU progressively increases blower speed
- When ignition switched on, if coolant cold ECU takes temp input from ambient sensor. If coolant hot it uses ambient temperature stored in memory.
The only manifestation would be a delay of fans starting due to the insulation effect of the rubber hose. From my many sessions wandering around the cooling system with an IR thermometer, there's only a few degrees of temp difference between the rubber hose and the metal pipe it's connected to.
Why not do the Audi matrix fit as you've got it that far down? For £30 in parts you'll never be troubled by O rings again!
mace wrote:
I can disconnect the heater matrix, get the whole unit out and get the flaps running smoothly. Will do the o-rings before it goes back in.
If I can find the kit in my parts warehouse (!), I'll measure the o rings...
EDIT- can't find them at the moment. I've "archived" all my GEMS spares into deeper storage, but will keep looking...
When I bought mine in Jan 2016 it was AUD 165 inc postage, which is around £103.00 at todays exchange rate.
Definitely 5/8 imperial, though a 16mm socket at only 0.1 mm larger is probably within manufacturing tolerances for your average socket manufacturer
Good luck with that!
One thing to watch for- if you're changing the gearbox oil cooler pipes there's a pretty good chance the unions on the cooler itself will leave half of their threads in the old hose fittings, rendering both the cooler and the hoses unusable. Dissimilar metals corrosion and just a matter of luck unfortunately.
It's quite possible that you've already got this mod, so before you get too excited, have a look. Pretty sure it was the subject of, or contained in a TSB back in the day and I believe the later GEMS might even have had it from the factory..
No negative (!) effects as long as you observe the usual precautions when fitting and ensure that the new cable is securely fixed and can't chafe anywhere. No fuse protection there so if it shorts to earth bad things will happen.
Use a 25mm2 cable and proper terminations.
EDIT: Beaten to the button by Gilbertd!
Ah yes, but what about the aspirator for the interior temp? Mind you, he already has the chequebook up on the panel, so he's probably just cut that off as well...
Gilbertd wrote:
As for the switches, he probably doesn't need any of them if you think about it. I doubt his cruise control will work, hazards and rear fogs aren't a legal requirement in the States, he's on coils so doesn't need the switches for that and will probably bodge some big lights on the front that will be tied into the headlight wiring.
From an engineering standpoint I enjoyed the work he'd done on the wheels. It takes talent to drill (file?) those stud holes that close to the centre bore without breaking through.