Good thrifty suggestion Tony, but I'm not sure that would work real-world. Once it runs clean when flushing, you stop flushing!
Surely you'd only have a small amount of clean flushed fluid, even if you were quick enough to catch it in a separate container?
Ferryman wrote:
After the flush the oil becomes clean, replace filter and top up with the -clean- flushed oil. Saves another 5 litres, it was clean after all.
It doesn't matter too much- should the other half need the pump I pictured earlier (not likely these days!), I use one like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OIL-SUCTION-GUN-GEAR-BOX-SUMP-DIFFERENTIAL-TRANSMISSION-CAR-TRUCK-PUMP-/400532171480?
Just shove it in as fast as you can after starting the process with it overfull by a litre or so...
EDIT- re oil quantity, from memory- fill to completely dry system it's 11 litres anyway. Around 5 if just draining and dropping sump so if you have to flush 10 litres or so through until it runs clean, then shove another 5 in once you've changed filter, that's a large proportion of your 20L gone!
Pretty much as fast as you can! You'll find it hard to keep up with what the box pumps out!
Can't remember which box you have- dipstick or non-dipstick, but if you haven't got a dipstick you'll need to make up a hose fitting to go in the fill hole anyway so make it as large bore as you can.
Be prepared to get oily and buy LOTS of Dex 3. I get mine from Smith & Allan in 20L drums
https://www.smithandallan.com/products/transport-gear-and-transmission/1840-smith-and-allan-atf-diii-dexron-3-atf-d3-semi-synthetic/
Should be easy enough then- especially with a lift.
Have a look at this thread for flushing info
Smiler wrote:
Ok, thanks for the replies.
I would really like to flush the gearbox oil as I want this vehicle to be a long term keeper and want to make the most of its relative low mileage.
Is this a DIY-able job? (I am handy with the spanners and have access to a four post ramp)
Well, the Trafficmaster fit turned out to be a bigger issue than I thought. Turned out that there were 2 identical 6 pin sockets on the back of the Nav head, one for the "normal" nav connector C0820 and one for the TrafficMaster nicely labelled cable.
Only problem was that the pic that I took of the lower console rear connectors came out black (bit of lens finger problem I think) so head scratching as to which goes where. ETM doesn't even mention or show the TM fitment, so the location picture for the connectors in ETM doesn't help.
The "set" on cables was such that each could go in either socket.
Having to use best judgement guess and assume C0820 goes in the socket that lines up with the white latching one (as per the ETM connector view) and the TrafficMaster goes in the one above.
50/50 that it works or alternately 50/50 that I toast the Nav unit. I don't like the odds, but don't have an alternative.
Bugger.
1- I think so. It's obvious when you stick a drill (blunt end) in and can feel you're pushing a spring clip back
2- no need to remove that at all (or disconnect battery). As long as you pull the electrical connectors to the black bit in 2nd pic before turning key to 2 you'll be OK
The black plastic bit, barrel and light will all slide easily out from the column casting in the direction you pull the key out, once you've found the right pin to push
An easy fix, for a change, with this Tony.
Shrouds off, unplug connectors, key in pos 2, insert suitable probe in hole underneath to disengage holding latch, remove assembly.
Ignore RAVE which would have you remove tilt assembly and unscrewing stuff.
Once you have assembly out, remove key (don't attempt to get barrel itself out of assembly or bits will fly everywhere once key's out!), spray the hell out of it with suitable cleaner through the keyhole. I use electrical contact cleaner as there are plastic switches etc in there and I don't want to risk dissolving them with brake cleaner as I've seen others suggest.
Once the black gunge, running out of bottom has run clear, a blast through with compressed air, a shot of graphite.
Make sure that white gate at the top is moving freely (that's the key in/ out switch) and that it all turns nicely and key slides in and out smoothly.
Key back in. Push assembly back into column housing until it clicks. Check function again. Reconnect, shroud on, done!
EDIT- beaten to the draw by Gilbertd again. He has a different view of cleaner to mine, but each to their own. I could be wrong about the white gate at top being key in/ out switch as well, but that's what I decided when I studied mine!
Don't tell me, it was being used on a sheep, wasn't it?!
Morat wrote:
You don't know where I saw one ;)
Given the "one step forward, two steps back" progress of my Vogue SE project, it won't be much of a race.
Mind you, I am now the world authority on the bits that make the SE an SE. Took me an hour to just clean aged melted chocolate out of the centre dash speaker the other day.
The 95's sadly lacking in HK badges anywhere but definitely has a High Line system. Speaker drivers only have LR part numbers. Maybe the HK branding came along later?
Ah well, what's in a name?!
Well, Morat and Paul are obviously New Men :)
I use the manual version:
OB, did you say anything to Joe the fish?
Yep!
Maybe he just wants to join a site where he can converse with knowledgeable adult P38 enthusiasts ?
Here we can use the word "feck" without getting a warning pm (not from RRTH but one of his fellow Mods) for childish behaviour and an attempt to circumvent profanity rules.
Ooh- BKR6E-11 at 4 for a fiver?!
I'll stick 8 of those on the shelf for later
Ta Paul
Looking at the latest New User on the pub home page, it appears that RRTH has dropped into the pub!
I'm picturing a wild west saloon moment, when a stranger walks in, the jangly piano stops and everything goes quiet.
Actually that's exactly what rural Devon pubs were like when I first moved down here. Eventually the locals came round but even after 17 years I'm still an incomer.
Ok so what steps do i take to test the door latch micros?
Marty's door latch test instructions are here:
https://rangerovers.pub/topic/5-info-front-door-latch-tests
With the attenuators as mentioned above and a PAC SW1-RC programmable steering control adaptor, the Sony CDX-GT5 (aka not exactly expensive) head unit that I've got in the '95. which had the high end setup like yours sounds surprisingly good.
With a bluetooth dongle in the head I use my Galaxy Note for Spotify and nav and my whole universe of ex CD music is accessible via a micro USB stick in the head unit.
If I were going to do it again, I'd probably stick in a DAB capable head unit but apart from that I'm happy.
EDIT- if your current system (apart from CD changer) works OK and you want to keep it original, you can plug a Grom BT-3 unit into the redundant CD changer inputs, get bluetooth connectivity and use your phone/ tablet whatever through your standard system
http://gromaudio.co.uk/products/bluetooth-hands-free-and-a2dp-car-kits/bmw-mini-rover-bluetooth-integration-kit-666.html
STC3064 for drivers door. STC3063 for LH door.
I use LR Direct £3.32 inc vat, but all the usual suppliers will sell them.
Usually only the drivers door that wears enough to get stiff, so it's possible that the others are just a bit corroded and will respond to a good clean and lube.
Doesn't look like GeorgeB will be getting his long awaited parts then...