Tried injecting 5V into various locations (on old ECU)- no joy. Too cold to mess around for long!
That would give a good base to start from, for sure.
Depends on whether I can keep the blue smoke in the jar when I attempt external power to the current one and whether the type B config files will transfer to the type C though.
I'm pretty sure, almost certain, that the other half's old Disco 1 was a 3.5, but time may have dimmed my memory.
All my 3.5 manuals are over in the workshop Simon, but if no-one here has the info to hand, I should be able to let you have the numbers tomorrow
It's a Zavoli Alisei Simon, so no problems with integration/ software!
No doubt I'll be posting on here re the calibration, when I get to it. There is a 4wd rolling road dyno in Plymouth, but I think I should be able to get it close enough without going to those extremes...
Not Machine Mart, I don't think. Plenty on the bay for example:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1311.R1.TR3.TRC2.A0.H1.Xengineers+straight.TRS0&_nkw=engineers+straight+edge&_sacat=0
You'll need, IIRC, at least a 24". Mine's a 36" and I can't remember how much overhang I get with that. Accuracy <0.01% total length. 0.005% if you can get it but they're really expensive.
Law of dimishing returns- cost of straight edge then skim if required v. putting heads with trusted engineers for an exploratory skim to ensure flat!
P38 heads aren't known for cracking- not the petrol anyway.
Assuming you have an engineers straight edge, or something similar that you're confident actually has a straight edge, check heads for warping and distortion. 0.05mm/ 2 thou is the limit.
mace wrote:
I was going to take the p38 heads and get them pressure tested etc, but is that really necessary? If not it will remove another delay.
Thanks for the kind offer re the ECU Simon. Fortunately managed to get the 2568 C mentioned above for a great price and with a 28 day return warranty. I'm still going to try my 7805 on the old one, just for the hell of it!
Guess I'll be back to the "what software works" question for the C. I'm going to start with 6 and work backwards.
Also looking forward to the calibration, having read the manual (s) and translated from Italian English to UK English. I'm hoping that chasing that little red dot around the screen isn't quite as complicated as they make it sound!
Going to make sure that petrol side is 100% first though. No point in calibrating anything until the ECU agrees that I've been through all the drive cycles and Nano is reporting nominal results for O2 sensors etc.
BTW I'm enjoying a mental picture of you slogging over the moors with a car battery and a BBC Micro in your rucksack on your childhood camping trips!
Blimey- found a used, 28 day warranty, 2568 looks like C on the bay in Exeter!
£60 or offers
Will try a little fishing with an offer and see what happens...
Shame I've just bought a shiny new switch for the 2568 really! Wonder if LPGshop would do an exchange?!
When you say the temp sensors spec on the Tartarini are unusual, does that mean I can't use existing Zavoli ones?
Don't suppose you're planning on selling on the Zavoli front end Simon? If so, let me know!
Thanks for the info. I'll hold off buying the Tartarini eBog one until I've tried out the 5V supply theory on the existing one. Who knows, it might actually work!
While I think about it, Richard and Simon, any ideas what the current pull on the 5V rail of the Zavoli system is?
I'll report back on the success (or otherwise) once I've played around!
Know if any of these are a plug, programme and play clone of my 2856?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TARTARINI-AUTO-LPG-AUTO-GAS-5-6-8-CYLINDER-ECU-110R-00-6030-67R-01-6018-/142269192031?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-P38-4-0-TARATINI-AUTO-LPG-AUTOGAS-ECU-E13-10R-02-0676-E13-67R-010091-/152416321869?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272547031327?
Hard to find a 2856 used. Only ones I've seen have been D type, which is a bit too advanced for my system.
Always guaranteed to get as many different recommendations as there are people on the forum, so I'll start the ball rolling...
Engine oil- semi synth 10w 40- pick any brand you like. I buy in bulk 20L from Smith & Allan. Frequent oil/ filter changes are as, if not more, important than buying a "name" brand.
Transmission- Dex 3. You'll be more restricted on brands. Again I buy in bulk 20L from Smith & Allan.
Brake fluid- DOT 4 not 5, can be a semi synth as long as miscible with dino DOT4 and must be suitable for ABS systems. Guess what- I buy in bulk 5L from..... Smith & Allan
Coolant- with GEMS you have a choice really. Pick depending on what colour you have in at moment- saves lots of flushing. Either good old fashioned Blue stuff, if you already have blue, or OAT if you have pink.
If you've got green or purple, probably best to flush lots then go for either blue or pink depending on your taste. Blue has to (or should) be changed every couple of years as the corrosion inhibitors get tired. Again I buy in bulk from.... blah, blah
Reason I buy in bulk is cos I do a few different cars and it also works out cheaper in the long run.
I'll pull up a chair and wait for the rest of the ideas/ contradictions to come in...
Whilst putting the arms/ blades back on the black one, went out to look at the blue one and they've been fitted backwards all the time I've had it!!
Never had any issues with wipers clonking anything, juddering or bad performance on there though.
Strange...
Took a day out from LPG yesterday to address urgent windscreen wiper issues, except fitted new pet/ gas selector switch, just in case.
No change.
Have parts in hand now to move on with 5v supply so, after sealing plenum area and putting cover back on, sorting starter motor intermittency on blue car, back onto the LPG.
I suspect I'll bring the ECU home to do it, as I'm going to open up the tin as my office at home is a nicer environment to do electronic stuff...
Put the LPG work on hold today, as drove it home in the rain for first time yesterday evening and found the drivers wiper was clearing not only the screen but the A pillar, while the passenger wiper cleaned the plenum cover.
Time to fit the new ball jointed arms that I've had on the shelf for ages and clean things up a bit
From this:
To this:
Photobucket's alive again. Have updated #206 above with the pinout diagrams to support my guesswork!
Photobucket has corpsed completely at the moment. Can't even log in to upload to my library. Serves me right for saying it was working fine for me the other day!
I wish I had the correct pinout for my particular AEB though. The Landi one is close, but wiring colours vary and obviously being for the D version, has a lot more connected (the OBD stuff at least) where I just have empty sockets.
Not having opened up the ECU box yet (sort of seemed like the last resort) but using the Landi Renzo clone pinouts diagram, it looks to me like there are 2 points (or at least 2 different pins, implying to me there's not a single rail 5v inside ECU) that need 5 volts injecting:
Pin 2 on the serial port (power supply serial comm) to pin 45 ECU in
Pin 1 on switch (Power supply switch) AND Pin 3 on pressure switch (5v supply pressure sensor) to pin 50 ECU. Shown as spliced together outside of connector
I'm looking forward to opening up a few jars of Lucas smoke once I'm let loose on this. If the ECU's not knackered already, there's a good chance it will be after I've finished surgery on it :)
Unplug the switch first. Could just be a jammed/ shorted switch.
Hah! You even used the same component I've ordered. Would have saved me minutes of research if I'd known that!
Using 0.33mF (input) and 0.1mF (output) electrolytics to decouple for switched loads.
Will testbed it on serial port. If it works (and solves problem) will stick it inside the ECU.