I'm going to dig out the Veroboard having just lashed out 78p to RS for a next day delivery L78S05CV, Single Linear Voltage Regulator, 2A 5 V, 3-Pin.
If the ECU is knackered, I've got little to lose!
EDIT- and it comes with a 31 page data sheet. I can have hours of fun reading that :)
Saw that Simon- thanks
Lpgc wrote:
Replied to the LPG 5v issue on your other thread..
Blooming GEMS/ Thor differences in the way they handle stuff! First sign of a fault code and I instinctively note it and clear fault!
Gilbertd wrote:
SRS fault should clear. GEMS needed a reset, Thor clears as soon as the fault is no longer there.
I suppose it'd be too easy if I could just get a clone such as this and just plug it into existing connector, setup and it'd work?
Doesn't sound too hopeful Simon! I know it's not pressure sensor pulling things down cos same lack of continuous 5v with sensor disconnected!
Trying to join LPGForum but still waiting for an Admin to approve me- 4 days and counting :)
A 7805 being an IC that takes 12v down to 5v I assume?
Main input volts steady at 12 to 14.8v depending on whether engine running or not.
Optimistically ordered a new switch anyway. Should be here tomorrow. Even if that's not the problem, they're still not supposed to have bits of track falling out!
5v supply to pressure switch shows same random behaviour. Cant get 5v at ECU out connector. The fact that the pinouts for ECU dont match my diagram/ colours for the pressure switch doesn't help!
So, if I can't get a good 5v at the ECU connector out, then I guess next step is into the ECU itself as that's where the 12v in is converted into 5v?
Still fault finding random voltage issue in LPG (see my "LPG- what wears out" in oily bits. Getting random switched 5 volts at LPG switch instead of constant!
Anyway, sitting in car watching petrol light go on and off, timing intervals suddenly get Airbag Fault message on panel + SRS light. Nano says Drivers Airbag open circuit permanent. Sure enough, wouldn't clear down.
Turn off car, unplug and clean all yellow connectors visible under dash. Fault clears without Nano assistance.
Sidetracked into doing electrical circuit/ battery/ charging health checks. Passed all- well within tolerances.
Re the radio power, the Nav unit "talks" successfully through the centre fascia speaker. No idea if that's all that speaker does 'cos system's too rare for it to be described, even in the handbook supplement for the audio system.
I'm betting there's a sh!tty connection to the radio somewhere though...
Probing socket, without switch plugged in, shows pin 1 (red) power wire "switching" between millivolts and 5v at random intervals. 5 v for a second or two then millivolts for between 10 and 30 seconds and repeat.
Petrol light with switch pcb plugged in shows same behaviour.
Looking at schematic/ pinout it shares 5v supply with pressure sensor (red/ white p50) so probing there next.
Oh and now have a permanent Drivers Airbag open circuit fault that has flashed up while watching light on switch!
Won't clear down
F ing car is generating issues faster than I can fix them
So....
Probing the intermittency at switch, had to dismantle switch as base glued to binnacle trim (why???). While dismantling switch, the tiniest bit of copper track fell out of case:
It's the little speck between the PCB and cover!
Hopefully the smoking gun, but in the meantime back to probing...
OK- the random on and off of the switch lights continues.
My hopes were high yesterday, with grounds repaired, replaced and added where appropriate, new perm +ve feed from batt to ECU plug, new switched +ve feed direct from fuse box to ECU plug.
I switched it on- straight away switch lights jumped appropriately into life, ran engine to bleed cooling system, switch continued to behave. With ignition switch in pos 2 could hear solenoids operating at tank when gas selected.
Didn't try running on gas as focussed on getting cooling system sorted.
Drove car home from workshop. Switch still lit.
This morning, nice and frosty, started car to see which elements of screen/ rear heaters worked. No lights at switch.
One brief flash of petrol light (maybe 2 seconds) on switch after idling for a while then nothing.
Still got panels off inside so will probe switch wires later at workshop to test grounds and volts.
Suggestions for next areas to attack most welcome!
Not worrying as such Sloth, more resigned to the fact that, sooner or later, the DSP's fail. This one was brand new from Land Rover in 2011 and I'm hoping it'll live a bit longer.
Given the way the fault presents (as I said, haven't even started to fault find yet) I'm thinking it's going to be cr@p wiring somewhere. There's been cr@p wiring everywhere I've touched under the bonnet, and replaced, so far.
I'm starting to build up a stock of thinwall cable in P38 loom colours now :)
EDIT: I'm looking forward to actually getting on with improving the car, rather than just treading water.
Improvements so far:
Original engine ECU installed... actually, that's not really an improvement!
0
It's alive.....again!
After a couple of days of enforced non-functioning due to a stomach bug (me, not car), spent today tidying up new wiring, checking all joints on new gas pipes, filling bleeding and burping cooling system, it runs and even drives.
Could only drive back from workshop to home (headlight alignment needs doing) so no time to check gas operation, but am cautiously optimistic as I now have status lights on switch working at all times.
Still no signs of life from radio though. It was fine before the first time I disconnected the battery. Now dead- no lights, nothing. NAV still initialises its display. Not even started fault finding on it yet, although with my usual pessimism am fearing the demise of the DSP amp.
Feeling slightly chuffed though...
Ah the old Kettle! Used to have a soft spot for them but they were just so BIG when stood side by side with the H2.
Not too bad once you knew their foibles, Chris. You never, ever, came off the throttle, or came onto the powerband, in the middle of a fast sweeper or it'd throw you into the nearest solid object!
Found an old website I created years ago, which is still alive here.
More details of my killer bikes, mostly with stupid fuel consumption as well. I had a big thing for 2 strokes!
no10chris wrote:
You had a H1 and your still alive, a rarity for sure, they were bloody lethal..
Well, as we're slightly off topic I'll throw my bit in!
When I were a lad, owned a Kawasaki H1A 2 stroke triple, 69 vintage. Had a 3 gallon tank. If ridden "enthusiastically" used to give between 14 and 19 mpg.
Used to spend a lot of time in filling stations. No idea how I could afford it, except back in the 70's students actually used to get paid to go to Uni. Those were the days!
Just to throw an alternative into the mix- sunroof drain pipe. If it's split or loose, water could be travelling down the outside of the pipe.
Had something similar on the '95, so when I had screen replaced, examined existing sealant very closely- no apparent damage, and peered over installers shoulder when new one went in to make sure sealed properly all round.
Still had a damp patch in a similar area to you after, but only when parked facing downhill.
It was only when I was greasing all the sunroof runners a while later that I noticed the front drain pipe was loose on that side. Blob of windscreen sealant later and no damp patch since.
My '95 has a mixer system and 6mm. Maybe that's why it's very sensitive to low(ish) gas levels and air temperature. Ah well, nice to know, even if I am selling it :)
Further to Gilbertd's suggestion re resistances. if you get as far in as the ECU, it'd be worth checking resistances of sensors AT ECU connector as well as sensors, with sensors both plugged and unplugged. If discrepancies there, chances are it's a sensor/ wiring fault rather than ECU
D1 Page 7 in my version of post '99 ETM in RAVE
Thanks Simon- I'll stick with the 6mm for now then.
One less thing to do!
This post hadn't appeared when I wrote my reply above. I do remember Nano was reporting 2 different locations for Morat's sensor fault, but can't remember what the reported fault was. If it was the same as Ash's problem, then worth checking sensors before launching into the ECU! At £100+ for used (unless one handy to swap for test) it's a bit expensive to launch straight into it.
ECU is located behind glovebox.
Gilbertd wrote:
We found this at the last summercamp on Morat's car. There was a faulty ABS sensor but Nano showed it to be a different one depending on what menu you used to look at it. There's been a firmware update for the Nano since which may well have cured it. It was Morat, Marty and Sloth who found the problem, one of them should be able to tell you what it was.