It's probable that the ABS ECU has failed. Later (99+) ones with 4 wheel traction control had a physically smaller box and less heat sink capacity thus a higher failure rate.
Either that or just solder the wires together and heat shrink
While you're into the seat bases swap the covers side to side. That way the worn bit where you slide into drivers seat becomes the inside of passenger seat and can't be easily seen.
IIRC there's a dialogue box that comes up to confirm recording stopped as well. I also tend to come right out of the Nano via the Turn Off button, before switching off car.
jacckk wrote:
When I was recording the CSV file, the entire screen showed a progress bar and a stop recording button so I made sure to click that and give it a few seconds before unplugging the nanocom.
I'm on TalkTalk at home and BT in the workshop. Both work equally well on Photobucket.
Mind you, as an inveterate tinkerer the first thing I did was bin the TT supplied router and fit one of my favourites. I also change the DNS addresses on any router I use away from the ISP defaults to faster ones.
Pic showing for me! I use Photobucket for mine and don't seem to have any problems reported, although it's possible no-one looks at them :)
A whole week without Resurrection news!
Door handle refurbed and waiting to be fitted.
Bonnet cable saga- did one final check before buttoning down grille etc and the new cable outer LHS popped out of the catch mech! Won't do it again though as now pinned in place. Something to watch for though, as the plastic housings do take a bit of a beating and the small clip extrusions in the slot that holds the cable outer in the catch mech (on mine at least) were worn.
LPG- replaced all flexible hoses. Had to wait until today for 22mm coolant hose to arrive for connection from bulkhead to T pieces. Now fitted. Cooling system vacuum filled and leak tested (ie it held vacuum).
LPG wiring- correct colour/ size cabling arrived yesterday so new ignition switched (picked up from C0572 under fusebox) and permanent power cables (picked up from input stud into fusebox and fused) going in tomorrow.
Won't be putting the binnacle surround etc back in until I've run it for a while to be sure the slightly suspect heater O rings aren't leaking.
So, after a final bleed and burp of cooling system, BOTR tomorrow?
I hope so. Had to tax blue one (at least I get unused back) and need to get it ready for the bay by 7th as insurance out on 18th. Doesn't leave much time...
Did you stop the recording before switching off car?
If not, that's what normally generates corrupt file messages.
Gilbertd wrote:
I tried to record the EAS during a journey but when I tried to copy it to the laptop it said it was corrupt and wouldn't copy it.
Time to have a good look at the OBD connections, pins and also C102 connections, pins (18pin white) behind RH footwell trim panel. Wouldn't hurt to clean the main ECU connections/ pins. The kick panel ones especially seem to suffer from corrosion- plenum leaks etc
As Gilbertd says. LHD cars arms have different part numbers to RHD so I think his view that long one is passenger side is correct.
Sorry to hear about your missus leaky feet. Must be very hard on her shoes so I can understand why you need to paint them :) :)
Ray- either with the Nanocom CSV Viewer (available as a download from BBS), or import the data into Excel or similar as a .csv file. You just have to parse it correctly.
That's assuming you've recorded the Nano data onto an SD card in the first place, of course.
At last! Hose arrived, cooling system re-assembled. Time for pressure/ vacuum test and refill now...
Found this in the Installation Manual today:
The “regular”model (shown in fig. 1.5.9-1) is connected to the regulator by means of a Ø 6 copper pipe, while the 5-8 cylinder “regular” model is connected directly to the regulator by means of a specifically designed valve (see fig. 1.5.9-2). With all “super” models, the type of
connection used is similar to the 5-8 cylinder model, with the exception of the tube, which in this case is a Ø 8
We identified mine as an S model regulator in my main "What wears out" thread
Sort of implies that I really should have 8mm pipe fitted, I suppose.
Ho hum. Wish I hadn't fitted those P clips with pop rivets!
A "Service" can be as simple as changing the filters (easily done yourself) to going through the complete system doing a full safety check and checking/ resetting calibration.
A good place to start looking (unless someone localish to Portsmouth can recommend anyone), is for a UKLPG certified installer. Have a look for one handy for you.
Went to replace an olive on the main tank to vapouriser pipe today and found the it's a 6mm rather than 8mm pipe (plastic coated so size wasn't obvious before). 8mm is recommended for 2.0 litres and above engines, I believe?
I take it that this will significantly reduce gas flow, send high RPM mixture weak and thus lose peak power?
It's a pain 'cos I've just spent a significant amount of time lovingly P clipping the whole installation...
Well, as you've done it Tony, it obviously can be done, but I'm not up for the degree of shoving/ twisting required. My suspect O rings would definitely not thank me for it. I'm treating those solid pipes to the matrix with ultimate gentleness. I'll be patient and wait for the 100mm of 22mm bore pipe that I need, to turn up in a day or two from the bay.
Pirtek locally would have sold me a metre for £30 plus. None of the local motor factors have it.
I've been known to be a bit mad with the cash occasionally, but £30 for 4 inches of pipe? Not even me!
It did, in revamped form, for a short while. Maybe we're now moving to the Instagram, or is it Snapchat generation, whichever disappears as soon as you've looked at it?!
Morat wrote:
or show!
I must using a different installation manual from the one you emailed!
I'm using the one that came with the 4.6.1 software which is the one closest to working at the moment-
Alisei-Zeta General Installation Manual 2nd issue 06/10/2009
Thanks for the info on the sensor. My guess would have been downstream too.
Appreciated
M
Gilbertd wrote:
Which is probably why the installation manual I emailed you says: (etc)
Found this on a Tinley Tech blog relating to connection problems between AEB LPG ECU and computer. No further information though:
Some of the older LPG ECUs require a pulsed signal on the brown (rev-sense) wire in order to connect.
It implies that "older" ECUs (whatever that means) need the engine running in order to connect.
Anyone ever heard of/ encountered this before?
Quick question for anyone passing through as not shown in system manual.
Gas temperature sensor should be placed:
A Upstream of gas filter
B Downstream of gas filter
C Doesn't matter
Ta!