Just for completeness, discovered the inlet pipe stubs to heater matrix are 22mm. All the RRG or washing up liquid in the world won't persuade a 19mm hose to fit those!
Bloody heater outlet pipes are 22mm! Never gonna get a 19mm on there!
Make sure your tyre pressures are correct as per book too!
Is that the £49.99 !sland one's that are single o ring Br!tpart?
Gilbertd wrote:
I think they supply their own knock offs but will supply the real thing if that's what you ask for. Their cheap versions only have a single O ring in them so hardly ever seal properly.
Thanks Marty & Gilbertd- hot water/ washing up liquid is a good combo but hadn't thought of RRG.
Not sure I've got any RRG in the shop, but do have some spray rubber lube that I spray my Airbags with if I'm under the car playing around. I'll have a look at the composition of that- suspect it's silicon based though.
As I have to replace the flexible hoses that go from the heater inlet/ outlet at the engine compartment bulkhead to the metal pipes near the rocker covers via a T piece and want to avoid any strain on my wobbly O rings can anyone suggest a suitable lube to put on the metal stubs/ end of hose? To get a 19mm or 3/4 hose on those things is mega tight, 20mm hose is unobtanium locally and 22mm will be rather loose even though my T's are 20/16/20.
With the old blue coolant (which contains silicates) I'd have used a squirt of silicon spray. With OAT pink stuff being silicate free it doesn't seem right to add silicon!
If the suggestions are stuff I'd be likely to have around the workshop, rather than the cream used by honeymooners (if you see what I mean) that'd be good as I don't particularly want to have to go to the chemist muttering about the missus and hormones!
O rings certainly! Matrix is your call based on condition. They're cheap enough if you get the Nissens one. I believe its part # 71145 (Marty should be able to confirm/ correct me on that) and available on the bay for £27.79
No sign of leaking or even sweating when running!
Time's my enemy here. Need it BOR for 1st Feb and still have to put new gas pipes in and change a few coolant ones to Tee pieces that I'm not happy about
Haven't got dash area even close enough apart to do O rings- shot that pic with my borescope
Martyuk wrote:
Have you actually looked at it whilst it's running yet? Or are we all jumping to conclusions about changing the O-rings again without ACTUALLY seeing if it's leaking now?
It's oozing too early!
O rings were replaced in 2011. Original LR ones too, or at least that's what they charged for on the bill...
Just before putting my instrument panel back together, I thought I'd have a probe around with my borescope at the bits you can't see.
Found evidence of some historic oozing from heater matrix O rings, no current drips or signs of leakage.
In the opinion(s) of the forum, do I really have to jump in immediately and do the Audi conversion and take the car off the road for even longer, or can I just continue to monitor for a few weeks?
All opinions welcome, especially the ones that say "continue to monitor"!
I've mentioned the Oily Bits unread thing to Gordon and he hasn't yet got to bottom of it due to its randomness
Norma Cobra clamps as alternative?
Found previous buffoon had bodged the IACV fitting after snapping it off the main inlet plastic pipe. JB Weld (the 24 hour setting stuff) has made a perfectly serviceable repair.
Yeah- I thought about that for a couple of minutes when I sold my Hawkeye on the bay to partly finance the Nano, then put it on!
Just described its condition (virtually unused!) and linked to manufacturers website for details of what it was alleged to do, and to be fair, mostly did, after a fashion
Clive603 wrote:
Logic says E-Bay it and get something better but I'd feel bad about selling on something so flawed.
Reckon when you're brave enough to go outside, run back in with it and pop off the hose clips, that the printing on it is pretty legible and you'll know what it is. Doesn't tell you anything about its history though. Could have been chopped off an old scrapper just to make a quick botch repair.
Getting good connections onto existing pipe end and clip fitting will be key.
Once you've decided what type of pipe you want to fit why not pop into your local Pirtek and see what they recommend in terms of fittings.
My local branch has been a source of valuable custom hose and pipe manufacture as well as information, in exchange for a generous contribution to the tea fund!
With the amount of work you need to do I suggest you get a dedicated one, though they cost more.
I've had a Hawkeye, sold it and bought a BBS Nano Evo which I'm very happy with, but other alternatives are available. Generic ones don't interface with a lot of the systems although are OK for reading fault codes and doing some instrumented running. All IMO of course.
mace wrote:
I guess at this stage I need a fault code reader.
Has to be better than Mr Bean!
Ooer, I feel a bit special now :)
In that case, if this is going to be used for reference, Google "the definitive fix for stiff P38a door handles", the topmost link will take you off to another site where the background is discussed in detail, how to get the handle off without breaking a key part, exactly which bit of metal to cut off the handle assembly etc.
Doesn't address the spring/ lock/ cable tie fix that I refer to in this thread though. I've got dibs on inventing that (or being the first to put it online).
When faced with any problem, if you can't solve it with Duct Tape, you will with a cable tie!
LOL
So how do you know Sloth?!
I see this post now has a little start beside it in Oily Bits menu. Wonder what that means?