If this fails would it show -20 degrees in Nanocom?

Mine is showing -20 degrees.

Gilbertd wrote:

What filler have you got?

It has a screw thread inside it.

I'll order a couple from LPG Shop then. Cheers!

Cheers.

I'll take a look.

Are there differences between UK and Euro fillers then? Does that give any problems when trying to fill up over there?

I've been a bit silly. I've driven off with the filler cap on the rear bumper having forgotten to refit it.

Didn't notice until three days later. Oops.

Looking on eBay but not sure if I've found the right thing as it says "outside UK":

Is there any reason this wouldn't fit a UK filler valve/nozzle/pipe/whatever the thing is called?

You might need a cable extension.

The radio I fitted came with a reversing camera but the cable was too short to reach from the tailgate to the dashboard

I fitted the camera to the plastic handle in the upper tailgate, ran the cable round the driver's side of the tailgate and up to the rubber bit that gets the wiring to the roof. From there it went to the passenger side, down the pillar and behind the boot trim and down the side the car with the wiring in the floor.

It ended somewhere around the front passenger seat and the manufacturer of the camera didn't offer an extension so I got from eBay. I never got around to fitting it though!

Lpgc wrote:

Hehe.. It is a load of bolx though the way they talk etc eh? Can imagine there was once a time when that sort of language was more the norm, in which case why hasn't the language moved with the times?

If everyone could read the law and make proper sense of it the solicitors and barristers and all the rest of them would largely be out of a job :P

Interestingly, I sent mine to its MOT with the ball joints in the footwell. Told them I knew the boots were split and to fit them if they were needed for the MOT.

Wasn't even mentioned as an advisory!

The local garage is owned by an ex-LR tech that worked in them when they new. I figure he decided it wasn't a job he wanted to get in to and was satisfied that I was aware of the issue and planned to fix it.

You can remove the lower ball joint without taking out the upper one but to do either you have to remove the swivel hub. Both ball joints points downwards and the hub presses upwards on to them. Undo the nuts, drop off the hub and the ball joints push out upwards.

As you have to remove the hub to do either of them most people tend to do both to avoid having to go back in and take the hub off again in the future.

I've seen horror stories of how difficult it is to replace the ball joints. I've also seen reports of garages not giving quotes ahead of time as they know it's a nightmare and could take them much longer than expected.

People seem to have trouble getting the ball joints out using cheap removal tools. Lots need to use a large amount of heat too.

I'm in the same boat as you - found the dust covers split but no play. Bought a full set of ball joints and just trying to work up the courage to go at it!

Clive603 wrote:

Dinna fash yersel

Would you like a doctor? :P

To replace the drag link and track rod with Lemforder parts would be £105.10 more than using the Bearmach/aftermarket parts. That's quite a jump!

Also, bolts are seem to be rather expensive. Rear radius arms have three bolts each. Prices for each are £11.62, £10.29 and £21.60!

I'm going to take a good look at the bolts on mine before committing to order the full set of bolts.

As I've priced them up, replacing front and rear bushes, nuts and bolts (without track rod/drag link) comes to £294.69 including 10% discount on the Bearmach parts. That's using genuine LR front radius arm bushes and Bearmach for the rest. Bolts are mostly genuine LR as that's all that's available.

I've got 2x 3T stands and 4x (I think) 2T stands.

I've got two jacks too. A 3T that's great for lifting the car and a 2T that doesn't really go high enough to lift the car off the ground but is OK for supporting detached parts.

I've been pricing up bushes and bolts at Bearmach - my Land Rover Club has a 10% discount code there.

Wondering if a group buy might be worthwhile. Most of the bushes are Bearmach branded but they have genuine LR ones available for the front radius arms. Personally, I'm OK with going Bearmach for the ones that are easy to get to and don't require special tools but plan on going genuine for the front radius arms.

They don't have all of the bolts though - some of those would need sourcing elsewhere.

Sloth said that Marty has the correct tool already :)

I'll ask my mate if he's OK with me holding on to the tool for that long.

The message he sent me when he agreed to lend it to me was "I'll need this back. Hire is one pint but the deposit against loss or damage is £10000000000, it's effectively priceless and the job is 100% impossible without it" :P

I've updated my Excel parts list for the track rod and drag link using part numbers from Island 4x4. I can only find a rod end for one end of the drag link and track rod, not the other ends. I'm wondering if the other end each isn't replaceable as a separate item.

I've also reorganised it to be easier to read.

Morat wrote:

and the second one: Exactly what parts and tools do we need to achieve this?

I've started a list of the parts I'd need to replace all the bushes, joints, nuts and bolts for the suspension and steering here:

https://1drv.ms/x/s!AojTrWb43XFxg5lmuUy2czXdi4tyCQ

Struggling to find the track rod and drag link in LR Cat though.

Also struggling to find dimensions for a couple of the bolts - the bolts are much cheaper if you shop for the bolts using the dimensions rather than the LR part numbers you can find them much cheaper.

The exception might be ANR1187/ANR6920. This is the front bolt for the rear radius arm. It's M16 but I can't find the length. Images show it has a slight step in the shank. I've no idea if this step is important if a regular M16 x whatever bolt would be OK.

The file is editable if anyone finds any superceded parts I've missed - or if you can find the dimensions it's missing!

This is well timed! Depending on the dates and what's going on at home I'd like to come along.

I've picked up a full set of suspension/steering arms to do a full refresh. I've got front and rear radius arms, panhard rods and a the steering drag link. The guy I got them from has also loaned me a home made tool for the radius arm bushes. It's a thick steel plate with a circular hole with slope sides cut in to it. He says it worked great when he did his - might help to speed the process along.

I've also got new ball joints for the front hubs.

When I first started driving that was how I was insured - the prices were still fairly astronomical. I think it was somewhere around £2K for my first year insured as a named driver on a 1.6 Focus.

Looked at doing the same on my dad's diesel P38 and they wanted closer to £7K! This was in 2006 when I first got my license. I had to wait a few years until my parents moved to Canada and the P38 became mine for a while.

Didn't run in to any bother even when I got in to an accident in the Focus. After that and worrying about them voiding the policy if they looked in to who used the car more etc I decided it wasn't worth the worry and got insurance in my own name - which actually turned out to be cheaper anyway!

In my experience I've found that many of the insurance "myths" aren't true. I've found insuring in my own name to be cheaper than going the named driver route, I didn't get a large reduction in costs after hitting certain age milestones and adding my Mrs to my policy put my premium up instead of down :(

He didn't say what colour the interior was but he did say he had almost none of it left.

Did you move or disturb any of the intake system/pipes?

When I removed the pipe going from the air filter to the throttle body the engine just died instantly. Maybe you've sealed a leak without knowing it?

I know someone selling a full BECM, keys and lock set if any one needs/wants to swap the whole lot for a working set?

It's from a 4.6 Thor.

Weren't early Disco door handles square flap type ones?

"Death wobble" has always seemed a bit melodramatic to me.

It is more of a slight vibration that just happens to be throughout the car.

Mine has only ever done in relation to speed though. I don't get it over bumps.

Ah, I think I understand the nuts issue now. You're doing it with the silver covers still on as I suggested but the flat sides are no longer flat?

That does sound tricky.

I've pretty much just lived with my wobble for the last three years or so. It seems to have improved over time and doesn't happen nearly as often. You've found that it goes away if you slow down but it also goes away if you speed up. Above 65 or so it's fine.

A friend of mine has broken his for spares so I'm picking up a full set of suspension arms (all four radius arms, panhard rods etc) and plan to refurb them to fit.

I've also bought a set of upper and lower ball joints for the front hubs.

It'll be a while before that lot is on the car but if you don't mind a wait I can let you know :P

Other common things I've seen people mention as cures are wheel balancing, good branded tyres and - if you have aftermarket wheels or ones from a different Land Rover - the correct spigot rings.

I'd also check to make sure your harmonic dampers are in place (big steel wheel type things bolted to the axles). I've seen a lot of people saying they're useless and take them off but LR must have out them there for a reason, right?