dhallworth wrote:

One of them just had a new heater matrix and the other had the o-rings done recently.

When doing the taste test, it’s definitely fresh water thankfully. On one of them you can see a drip just above the accelerator pedal.

David.
Mine used to do that. it was a mixture of warped pollen filter housing covers and the screw/fixing below

there is a plastic insert IIRC and it wasn't sealing which caused no end of headaches!

I put some sealant around it!

The covers themselves had warped in the middle and even with the OEM gasket they were letting water in, I used silicone.

I used coloured water to try and narrow the issue down...

It did work!

Nowt annoys me more than a thread without a conclusive fix/resolution..

So here I go!

Something similar happened a few months ago and it was the sunroof frame, so I started there..

.The problem has finally been sussed..

going through the common problems

The windscreen seal is good, I had no reason to believe there was anything wrong with it..
Sunroof drains are clear
The seam sealant on the roof was all intact

So it left my old friend the sunroof frame/glass itself..

The sunroof seal itself is wrapped around the glass frame which in turn is sealed to the glass with a mastic, the steel that makes up the frame is very poorly protected and by design water will find its way under the seal and just sit on the frame between the glass and after years of moisture the frame rusts and swells which breaks the seal between the frame and the glass, the subsequent issue is water finding its way under the seal and on to the inside of the glass/frame which in turn will wick down the glass and on to the headliner..

Upon removal of the seal what I found didn't look too good

Ex Rover 800 parts!

Not only is the frame terminal but the bonding between it and the glass had all but disappeared around the frame, the metal was also very thin even light pressure from my wire brush caused the frame to bend and thus a big gap appeared between it and the glass and as such water was wicking under the seal and onto the inside of the glass which then found its way on to the headliner

The fix for this in an ideal world would be a new frame but since It's a daily I can't remove the roof for any length of time so some silicone will have to do, a thin bead between the glass and the frame is ideal, however if the bead is too thick the seal won't seat properly and the roof won't close. Found that out the hard way... LOL

I used some clamps to hold the seal while the silicone set.

And fixed.

After a few days of heavy rain it is drier than the sahara inside which makes me happy..

As having to toss a cover on it every time I park up becomes very tedious indeed..

The previous owner of mine fitted a set of Nexen rodians in 2015 at 110k

20k miles later they are still like new tread wise, however the sidewalls are cracking like all hell..

So a new set of tyres is needed soon i'm eyeing up a set of BFG AT tyres, as the Nexans are near useless off the tarmac..

Looks like an interesting project, I've been thinking of adding a split charge system to mine and utilising the cavernous area under the floor..

Like yours mine is full of tank, so that'll have to go!

P38 V8

X8R for me and they work well.

No leaks.

Nice work.

A smart motor you have got there, a group shot of all the Rangies wouldn't go a miss!

5mpg is an eye opener lol still quite fancy an L322.

The pleats are there to filter and they'll do a good job no matter what, unless of course you use a poor quality filter and the paper turns to porridge, which is what happened to the Crossland filter that mine originally had on it.

I guess you could go 2 oil changes on a good quality filter but why?

A new filter will do a better job than an old one to be fair, I certainly wouldn't change my Air filter for a dirty one!!

Sunroof frame has separated from the glass which isn't ideal,

Not surprising really when you use a rover 800 sunroof glass/seal..

Might explain the water on the inside of the glass, due to water going under the seal and on to the inside of the glass via the gap left from non existent bonding agent.

I'll see the next time it rains!

To be fair my Mann filter cost me £6 so changing it is a no brainer..

The Viscosity index / Calcium/phosphorus content can be viewed in the MSDS sheets for any particular oil if you want to get really nerdy.

I buy the best regarding the additive package and weirdly 10w40 comma at £18 a gallon had a pretty good additive package for the money, certainly cheaper to replenish every 6k than the £70 a gallon stuff you can get.

Umm..........

Oil filters have a bypass to allow oil flow if the filter gets clogged with shit..

The filter should be changed at every oil change..

I Run a 10w40 in mine and it seems to like it..

To be honest the RV8 community all the people recommend a different oil so there is no right answer to be honest.

I check the Oil too, however being that the oil passes through the filter it is will show any bearing fragments or untoward shit that would otherwise go a miss..

A great example is the transmission fluid filter, people seldom check inside them and just check the magnet in the sump!

OIl itself is a bone of contention it is an old Pushrod V8 yes however Small and big block Chevys and Mopars of the same design use a 10w40 or 15w40 so to be fair i'd rather that than a 20w50 or in my case 10w60..

Another example is originally the 215 Buick in the skylark was recommended to run a straight SAE 30 and go thinner in winter I certainly wouldn't run that in one!

Just because it used thick shitty oil 50yrs ago doesn't mean that is the best for it hence my reasoning for not running a 20w50 etc back in the 60s the only multigrade was a 20w50 IIRC reading somewhere doesn't necessarily mean it is the best for it!!

I've contacted multiple RV8 engine builders and 99% of them recommend a quality 10w40 the only one who recommended a 20w50 was RPI engineering, however I wouldn't take their advice for gospel they are clueless I contacted them regarding a 4.0 they had built which had 3.3mm of camshaft end float I contacted them and they said that was normal!!!

It should be 0.25-0.5mm IIRC..

Anyone else do this or am I alone lol

Ever since I bought the old bus I've always cut the old filters open and had a gander inside, either to judge oil filter construction or any foreign contaminates that might of found their way in there.

My old filter is a Bosch unit and to my surprise it is very well made, even after 5000mi the pleats were still firm with no sign of collapse and it was quite the job to cut through them!!

The filter material I like to squeeze in the vice to remove all traces of oil which might hide any contaminates that are embedded in the surface

Once squeezed the dry'ish filter material is stretched out on my bench where a good gander can take place

Admittingly I was surprised to see absolutely no contaminates of any size contained within the pleats, which is surprising considering the apparent EP grade viscosity the 10w60 has turned into, it is the consistency of maple syrup which is worrying..

And it is very dark

Which is weird considering the inside of the engine isn't dirty I can only assume the detergents in the Oil aren't up to the job, weirdly Castrol doesn't list the additive package for their oil so I can only assume!!

No the windows don't steam up..

and the car is dry inside all the carpets are bone dry etc etc

Is that its purpose?

Mine doesn't seem to be snug/tight around the sunroof aperture I can quite easily slip a credit card down between the sunroof seal and the roof when it is closed.

I appreciate it isn't going to be a perfect seal, hence why there are drip trays, however looking at the sunroof when its open, there is little to stop water running past the seal and down the inside of the glass.

Mine seems to have an awful lot of condensation which drips off the sunroof on to the centre console, surely that isn't normal?

Other sunroofs I've looked at have what looks like a draft/wind noise reducing strip just and a seal that goes around the cassette to stop water running inside, however the P38 doesn't have this?

This is a R50 Mini sunroof my R50 has a pano roof and i near 20yrs old, no rust and it is 100% water tight

note the 2 seals.

I was thinking about putting a draft excluder or a 2.5mm rubber strip to help plump up the seal?

Nice looking motor..

Its always worth doing the adaption on the HP26 especially after a service.

Yesterday I replaced the o2 sensors on the V8 and did a basic tune up with some new plugs and leads.

Afterwards just to satisfy my curiosity I tried to balance a 50p coin on the intake and rocker covers, and to my amazement they stayed in place

Which got me thinking about how well balanced a V8 is - a chap I worked with noted they were very "wobbly" and if you want perfect balance get a straight 6 or V12.

And yes the I6 is recognised as the most well balanced of all setups but is a V8 really that far behind?

247mi from the the last fill..

Getting better it seems very happy after replacing both O2 sensors, i've managed to balance a coin on the intake while running on Gas which is not too bad.

No difference in power either it seems feels quite sprightly on both fuels.

Filled it up again at a station in Bromyard and I got 233mi from it, running the tank empty a slightly more restrained right foot helps matters!