18" Comets which are a D2 wheel they came standard on mine due to a supply shortage for the Hurricanes during the last year of production, mine was built Oct 11th 2001 so quite near the end of production.

If i'm honest I prefer them to hurricanes, I'm was quite biased to a nice Mondial however after living with the Comets they're my favourite wheel.

Oh and the 16" wheels on my D2 "Meteors" apparently..

4.3 sounds ok, I dropped out just under 5 litres from mine

A fill should be around 5 litres.

I wouldn't heed Auto express articles about compatibility all they're trying to do is weed out the old cars..

A scare tactic, which is funny.

One of their journos Luke something or other wrote a fair few about E10 and every single consecutive article contradicted the last/

the yanks have been using ethanol rich fuels for years their 87 octane is packed with the stuff

it can play havoc with carbs if left standing

Those look like spurious faults from no comms.

Have you got the "good idle" on the RSW software??

Reminds me of the unit GM pushed out the 6.2 N/A diesel that was based on the petrol equivalent

IIRC 130hp and 240ft-lbs from 6.2 litres to pull around their land yachts

Could never understand why it was needed, fuel economy was nothing to crow about either

The VM HR492 was the first diesel engine offered in the RRC with 106hp and 230nm it couldn't pull yer knob straight, it wasn't until they pushed out the 425OHV that the RRC diesel appealed, 300nm made it bearable.

Thanks

I fitted the +2 "stupidly" so they need replacing whether I like it or not..

The ride is bad to say the least even on smooth roads it find massive bumps and potholes to bump over.

Branching out from my other thread regarding shock absorbers..

My experience with them have been a bit like goldilocks and the several sets of shock absorbers..

original BOGE units were knackered.
So I fitted Bilsteins thinking they'll be better, and unfortunately the ride was so hard I sent them back and put my originals back on!
The next week she found herself with a set of BOGE dampers I managed to get from Island4x4 and Ebay the ride seemed perfect, far better than ever, for around a month before one started to mist oil!!
As a final ditch effort a set of Terribly ferm shockers were fitted, which have made the ride near unbearable

So i'm back at square one..

As said in my other thread shipart shockers are the only ones left to try and i'm sorely tempted..

Oh and not the "dynamics" or any of that shit, the standard black ones, I just want a soft ride..

Don't care about how sporty it is to drive which is all the manufacturers seem to care about, etc etc

My question is how well should the P38 ride?

Is it supposed to be "magic carpet" I'm guessing with 18" wheels my ride will be slightly harsher than with 16"s

Mine at the moment seems to find every single bump in the road, which ain't ideal...

THKS

H

Thanks Gents

Richard, yes i'm of the same mindset it seems a good deal, considering replacing them is an easy job around 20mins for each end.

The reason for replacement RomanRob is I have the TF +2 shocks which aren't correct for the stock Airbags, as on full droop the bags will pull apart.

That good eh!! lol

Gonna be replacing my TF shocks with some new'uns..

BOGE are NLA and I have very little cash to spare so i'm going to punt on some Britpart shockers from rimmers..

I can get a set for £75..

Should be a good bit softer than the set I have now..

Simple.

the P38 came out in 1994 and the TD5 was introduced in 1998.......

I have the TD5 in my D2 and I certainly wouldn't want it in the P38...

As said above.

Highly doubt us mere mortals could afford one though..

dhallworth wrote:

One of them just had a new heater matrix and the other had the o-rings done recently.

When doing the taste test, it’s definitely fresh water thankfully. On one of them you can see a drip just above the accelerator pedal.

David.
Mine used to do that. it was a mixture of warped pollen filter housing covers and the screw/fixing below

there is a plastic insert IIRC and it wasn't sealing which caused no end of headaches!

I put some sealant around it!

The covers themselves had warped in the middle and even with the OEM gasket they were letting water in, I used silicone.

I used coloured water to try and narrow the issue down...

It did work!

Nowt annoys me more than a thread without a conclusive fix/resolution..

So here I go!

Something similar happened a few months ago and it was the sunroof frame, so I started there..

.The problem has finally been sussed..

going through the common problems

The windscreen seal is good, I had no reason to believe there was anything wrong with it..
Sunroof drains are clear
The seam sealant on the roof was all intact

So it left my old friend the sunroof frame/glass itself..

The sunroof seal itself is wrapped around the glass frame which in turn is sealed to the glass with a mastic, the steel that makes up the frame is very poorly protected and by design water will find its way under the seal and just sit on the frame between the glass and after years of moisture the frame rusts and swells which breaks the seal between the frame and the glass, the subsequent issue is water finding its way under the seal and on to the inside of the glass/frame which in turn will wick down the glass and on to the headliner..

Upon removal of the seal what I found didn't look too good

Ex Rover 800 parts!

Not only is the frame terminal but the bonding between it and the glass had all but disappeared around the frame, the metal was also very thin even light pressure from my wire brush caused the frame to bend and thus a big gap appeared between it and the glass and as such water was wicking under the seal and onto the inside of the glass which then found its way on to the headliner

The fix for this in an ideal world would be a new frame but since It's a daily I can't remove the roof for any length of time so some silicone will have to do, a thin bead between the glass and the frame is ideal, however if the bead is too thick the seal won't seat properly and the roof won't close. Found that out the hard way... LOL

I used some clamps to hold the seal while the silicone set.

And fixed.

After a few days of heavy rain it is drier than the sahara inside which makes me happy..

As having to toss a cover on it every time I park up becomes very tedious indeed..

The previous owner of mine fitted a set of Nexen rodians in 2015 at 110k

20k miles later they are still like new tread wise, however the sidewalls are cracking like all hell..

So a new set of tyres is needed soon i'm eyeing up a set of BFG AT tyres, as the Nexans are near useless off the tarmac..

Looks like an interesting project, I've been thinking of adding a split charge system to mine and utilising the cavernous area under the floor..

Like yours mine is full of tank, so that'll have to go!

P38 V8

X8R for me and they work well.

No leaks.

Nice work.

A smart motor you have got there, a group shot of all the Rangies wouldn't go a miss!

5mpg is an eye opener lol still quite fancy an L322.

The pleats are there to filter and they'll do a good job no matter what, unless of course you use a poor quality filter and the paper turns to porridge, which is what happened to the Crossland filter that mine originally had on it.

I guess you could go 2 oil changes on a good quality filter but why?

A new filter will do a better job than an old one to be fair, I certainly wouldn't change my Air filter for a dirty one!!