Sunroof frame has separated from the glass which isn't ideal,

Not surprising really when you use a rover 800 sunroof glass/seal..

Might explain the water on the inside of the glass, due to water going under the seal and on to the inside of the glass via the gap left from non existent bonding agent.

I'll see the next time it rains!

To be fair my Mann filter cost me £6 so changing it is a no brainer..

The Viscosity index / Calcium/phosphorus content can be viewed in the MSDS sheets for any particular oil if you want to get really nerdy.

I buy the best regarding the additive package and weirdly 10w40 comma at £18 a gallon had a pretty good additive package for the money, certainly cheaper to replenish every 6k than the £70 a gallon stuff you can get.

Umm..........

Oil filters have a bypass to allow oil flow if the filter gets clogged with shit..

The filter should be changed at every oil change..

I Run a 10w40 in mine and it seems to like it..

To be honest the RV8 community all the people recommend a different oil so there is no right answer to be honest.

I check the Oil too, however being that the oil passes through the filter it is will show any bearing fragments or untoward shit that would otherwise go a miss..

A great example is the transmission fluid filter, people seldom check inside them and just check the magnet in the sump!

OIl itself is a bone of contention it is an old Pushrod V8 yes however Small and big block Chevys and Mopars of the same design use a 10w40 or 15w40 so to be fair i'd rather that than a 20w50 or in my case 10w60..

Another example is originally the 215 Buick in the skylark was recommended to run a straight SAE 30 and go thinner in winter I certainly wouldn't run that in one!

Just because it used thick shitty oil 50yrs ago doesn't mean that is the best for it hence my reasoning for not running a 20w50 etc back in the 60s the only multigrade was a 20w50 IIRC reading somewhere doesn't necessarily mean it is the best for it!!

I've contacted multiple RV8 engine builders and 99% of them recommend a quality 10w40 the only one who recommended a 20w50 was RPI engineering, however I wouldn't take their advice for gospel they are clueless I contacted them regarding a 4.0 they had built which had 3.3mm of camshaft end float I contacted them and they said that was normal!!!

It should be 0.25-0.5mm IIRC..

Anyone else do this or am I alone lol

Ever since I bought the old bus I've always cut the old filters open and had a gander inside, either to judge oil filter construction or any foreign contaminates that might of found their way in there.

My old filter is a Bosch unit and to my surprise it is very well made, even after 5000mi the pleats were still firm with no sign of collapse and it was quite the job to cut through them!!

The filter material I like to squeeze in the vice to remove all traces of oil which might hide any contaminates that are embedded in the surface

Once squeezed the dry'ish filter material is stretched out on my bench where a good gander can take place

Admittingly I was surprised to see absolutely no contaminates of any size contained within the pleats, which is surprising considering the apparent EP grade viscosity the 10w60 has turned into, it is the consistency of maple syrup which is worrying..

And it is very dark

Which is weird considering the inside of the engine isn't dirty I can only assume the detergents in the Oil aren't up to the job, weirdly Castrol doesn't list the additive package for their oil so I can only assume!!

No the windows don't steam up..

and the car is dry inside all the carpets are bone dry etc etc

Is that its purpose?

Mine doesn't seem to be snug/tight around the sunroof aperture I can quite easily slip a credit card down between the sunroof seal and the roof when it is closed.

I appreciate it isn't going to be a perfect seal, hence why there are drip trays, however looking at the sunroof when its open, there is little to stop water running past the seal and down the inside of the glass.

Mine seems to have an awful lot of condensation which drips off the sunroof on to the centre console, surely that isn't normal?

Other sunroofs I've looked at have what looks like a draft/wind noise reducing strip just and a seal that goes around the cassette to stop water running inside, however the P38 doesn't have this?

This is a R50 Mini sunroof my R50 has a pano roof and i near 20yrs old, no rust and it is 100% water tight

note the 2 seals.

I was thinking about putting a draft excluder or a 2.5mm rubber strip to help plump up the seal?

Nice looking motor..

Its always worth doing the adaption on the HP26 especially after a service.

Yesterday I replaced the o2 sensors on the V8 and did a basic tune up with some new plugs and leads.

Afterwards just to satisfy my curiosity I tried to balance a 50p coin on the intake and rocker covers, and to my amazement they stayed in place

Which got me thinking about how well balanced a V8 is - a chap I worked with noted they were very "wobbly" and if you want perfect balance get a straight 6 or V12.

And yes the I6 is recognised as the most well balanced of all setups but is a V8 really that far behind?

247mi from the the last fill..

Getting better it seems very happy after replacing both O2 sensors, i've managed to balance a coin on the intake while running on Gas which is not too bad.

No difference in power either it seems feels quite sprightly on both fuels.

Filled it up again at a station in Bromyard and I got 233mi from it, running the tank empty a slightly more restrained right foot helps matters!

On the V8 yes but the diesel is harder to turn over, you've also got to account for the current draw from the glow plugs, which is a fair chunk.

750cca sounds a tad low for the diesel unit, i'd be more inclined towards the MF-31 1000 for the diesel.

I have the 1000 in mine and she spins over like a top even after 4 weeks of sitting.

How much range should I expect from my tank..

I'm guessing it has a max capacity of around 75ltrs

From a 75ltr fill i'm getting around 185mi

That sound about right?

H

Pollen filter covers and the screws along the scuttle need sealing up.. ..

Body seam sealant should work quite well.

Well in today it relatively dry in terms of shit falling out the sky..

So I peeled off the cover and soaked the windscreen and around where the upper trim goes, and there was no water getting in, no reason for it to either as the bonding looked good when I went up there and broke all the clips!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ahh!!

Anyway..

It's either the sunroof or the seam sealant under the plastic covers on the roof..

so that's a sigh of relief since the original screen is blemish free!

I know a bit about the L322..

Rebuilt a few M62's.

And done some sill rot repairs on them!

Looks like a proper project David..

I quite fancy one of these supercharged L322s,