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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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Just realised the above is M12 thread..

The one in mine is more like an M6 thread.......

Oh and there are a few temp sensors out there, this one is for an OMVL Reducer which she has..

https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=DChcSEwi8odj69azqAhWHrO0KHTcVBxoYABAVGgJkZw&sig=AOD64_2xQBnM-56Pc-4xWU4dlMEOAE1Mpg&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjSh9H69azqAhWDh1wKHXcoDa8Q9aACegQIDBBY&adurl=

is this about right would ya say?

Right...................................

Thanks Again..

When it started pishing out i tightened it back up lol...

I've found the temp sensor thanks all, it is a nice shade of green..

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I'm assuning it is a splice in job for a new sensor it doesn't have a connector..

Oh and i froze my spanner.

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I turned the thumb screw on the end, assuming it was the thing Richard was referring to, the thing i had to clean, and it turned out the whole thing was finger tight and a load of Gas pissed out in my face..

a small hiccup.. lol

I'm assuning the sensor i found on the top of the Reducer was a pressure sensor?

I'm asuming the temp sensor will be on the reducer somewhere?

Done some more probing

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this thing is showing 13.3 OHM's

Many thanks all..

I checked the resistance of the coil and it is....

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The plastic body has no cracks..

When i bought the car the switch would beep "it still does" when you turned the ignition on and after it got up to temp the lights would go solid and she'd run quite well on LPG..

However after running it into the red, i put £30 in the tank and it refused to change over, it doesn't beep when driving or if you poke the button on/off it just behaves like it would when the engine wasn't up to temp IE it just flashes instead of flashing and then going "solid" when she got up to temp.

It had a conversion "single point" in around 2004 this was on the car until 2013 when the PO had running issues with it backfiring. an AC Stag "system" was fitted in 2013 for £ 1,834.89 by Profess Autogas

A year later it had a "service" for £704 which included.

"LPG service" £60
"spark plugs" £86
"ignition Lead set" £45
"sonda sensor" £66
"LPG injectors" £288
"Labour" £126

Sounds like quite a major service and it hadn't even been on the car 12 months!!

Hmm.

Many thanks Richard

top notch as always!!

Roight chaps..

I have an issue with my LPG as known by almost all in the pub I suspect..

Originally it worked OK however one day an idiot "me" ran it out of gas, and that was the end!!

I noticed the audible "click" that would emanate from the LPG tank wasn't anymore,

And the LPG gauge/button would/is just flashing..

I pulled the cover off the tank..

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had a gander inside and found this fairly innocent looking, relay????

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i'm assuming it has ceased to do its intended job, whatever that was.. lol

The Tank itself if an 84ltr unit and seems to have been fitted to the titanic before being thrown into my old girl!

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Absolutely covered in surface rot, and no water doesn't get in through the seals.

It has an OMVL vaporiser

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OMVL DREAM INJECTORS

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The switch.

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cheers Gents.

She has a full tank of Gas and she has been running LPG since 2002 from what i can gather, which would explain how well it runs and how clean it is inside lol

Pollen filters are brand new items.

I offroad it but don't lift wheels, i use it across fields.

And yes extended shocks with standard dunlops I was going to get Arnott's but the reviews and frankly ridiculous price put me off.

If i wanted to be an idiot i'd engineer up some spacers for the stock setup..

However that seems overkill considering what she does day to day..

As for jacking on the chassis I've never needed to, usually on the axles with a bottle or floor jack..

I bought a set of Terrifirma shocks, being the ignorant bastard i am didn't realise they were extended ones!!

However the ride is quite good, she had a set of Boge shockers fitted in 2007 according to the history and after around 40k they were dead, i hope the TF ones last a good while..

I was tempted by Britpart cellular dynamics, however nothing in the blue box tends to not work or last any appreciable amount of time.

My P38's Heating works really well..

As for the Aircon though....................

It stays Hot..

The air coming out the vents is also piss poor "to put it mildly" i've read up on another forum that the HVAC won't adjust the Blend motors while the Book symbol is illuminated, some say it is worth unplugging the HVAC waiting 10secs and replugging it, theoretically clearing the fault and allowing the car to try and adjust the motors..

Does this sound about right?

I've also looked at some who say you just have to repair the blend motors, or re-adjust them i'm assuming the dash has to come out to do them..?

She has had a New compressor pressure switches and condenser in the past few years so it would be nice to get it working!

I've had a car fall on me, a MK2 Shogun the axle stand failed..

I was pinned under it, twas lying on my side so my shoulders were wedged between the chassis and floor.

Luckily "for me" i had stuck the Tyre under the axle and it landed the full weight on that with just some on me..

That wasn't a fun 45mins i tell ya!!

As for the P38 I stick it in wade mode and Stick and axle stand under the chassis.

I'd hazard you'd feel if it was going..

When my NSF bearing failed you could hear and feel it through the floor..

When it started to get really bad the steering wheel started to shake..

Cheers Gents..

I'll give that a go

Gents.

Just wondering if anyone has had success in replacing the motor brushes on the compressor..

I replaced my Compressor because the old one sounded weak and the output pressure didn't change that much even after a rebuild, and it started to stutter

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Pulling it apart showed a housing full of carbon chunks and dust.

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The brush on the left had seized in its housing which was odd, a good splash of leccy cleaner and a tap it popped out..

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Anyone found replacements, and anyone found a way to hold them in while putting the motor back together?

H

Right i've had this a while..

When releasing the throttle quickly at lower than 50mph the car shunts.

I've got a feeling it is the radius arms giving up..

Doesn't do it when accelerating!

Any thoughts?

Sitting pretty level now, the local B&Q with a level carpark..

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The Kent H180 cam is one i'm considering..