Right I've returned it to "original" with regards to throttle cable, and it still does it..

I noticed it started right after I overtook a tractor "with the original throttle cable setting" instead of going 1/4 to 1/2 throttle like i usually do I just mashed the throttle and she rightfully took off however when turning around in my drive i noticed the idle had raised to 1100 and would just sit there, and then drop back down..

Now on cold start it sits at 1500 or 1700 and sits there until she warms up, then it starts to fluctuate and it drops suddenly to the normal idle speed.

I've replaced the TPS mainly because I was getting spurious codes "fixed"

From memory i have an Idle air control valve malfunction code, but my code reader has been borrowed by a friend!

IIRC it was PO505..

Before this issue it would fire and then cut out or it would fluctuate between 100 and 1200rpm rapidly, so i had to hold the throttle for around 30secs to allow it to stabilise.

This is my idle when cold..

The old TPS was all rattly, which i thought was odd..

Thanks all.

dhallworth wrote:

StrangeRover wrote:

dhallworth wrote:

StrangeRover wrote:

When I rebuild tractor engines we get them on a PTO dyno and load them down to seat the rings..

Some of those big 6 cylinder tractors sound amazing whilst at full chat on the dyno!

That they do!

The best yet was a Case CVX Puma!!!

That sounded incredible

I'm half seriously looking for a tidy John Deere 3650 just now. Have a notion for one on wide tyres and a wide step with that 6 pot turbo. Total overkill for what we need but it would be fun!

Good tractors, mechanically quite strong, only time i've had one in was for a clutch...

What work you planning on having it do?

dhallworth wrote:

StrangeRover wrote:

When I rebuild tractor engines we get them on a PTO dyno and load them down to seat the rings..

Some of those big 6 cylinder tractors sound amazing whilst at full chat on the dyno!

That they do!

The best yet was a Case CVX Puma!!!

That sounded incredible

Thanks Richard.

Thanks all..

Guess i should use it more often.

I replaced my two front ones after finding water and shit inside them..

There is an O ring IIRC that seals out road garbage..

This in my experience can be a cause of EAS issues,

But to be honest anything cheap isn't going to last, or maybe even work!!

When I rebuild tractor engines we get them on a PTO dyno and load them down to seat the rings..

I see no reason why not to do the same with a V8, work on an M62 I did and she pulls hard..

Anyone use it on the regular basis?

I've heard some people say it can wear out bags etc however I thought with what they go through when you're driving that wouldn't be the case?

Also are the bags supposed to completely depressurise when Access mode is selected or does it keep pressure in the bags?

Thanks

H

Right another issue!!

From cold start her idle is 1700rpm when she starts to warm up the idle jumps from 1700-1000 and then settles at 1100..

One up to temp it drops rapidly to 850 and she idles fine..

All day fine..

But once cold it is going insane!!

I'm torn between IACV and TPS..

I noticed it only started to happen after a i gave it full throttle, "which i've never done" lol

That right there is art..

Rebuilding your current Autobox isn't a difficult Job, and might be worth doing!

I generally prefer 6 sided sockets as the grab the flats instead of the corners of a nut/bolt..

Odd it is listed as an Impact socket, it is made of chrome vanadium the same as the shiny silver ones, which like to crack with impacts.

All impacts should be chrome moly..

Anyway..

It'll work but the chances of rounding the head are increased.

Welcome aboard..

This is without question the best forum for the P38

dhallworth wrote:

Well, yesterday the Magnecors arrived and were dually fitted.

I ordered a Britpart hose set for it against my better judgement... Most of it has ended up in the bin other then a couple of bits that looked scruffy on our originals. Whoever in Britpart thinks this is acceptable for a top hose needs shot...

Nice to hear the new engine is performing well..

Hows does she compare to your other VSE?

Any........................................................

Cough....

Pictures lol

Chrome Moly are impact rated

Bi-Hex are the work of satan..

I'd say you're one up from me, my rear bumper is held on with zipties!! lol

It's the balljoints that wear, generally it doesn't matter what grade steel the drag link it made of..

£950 seems steep I replaced almost all the suspension bushes for under £350

Don't fit Polybushes standard rubber are best

A standard Drag link will work just fine, fitting an expensive fancy one is a waste of money imo Rimmer Bros "OEM" is MOOG so i'd go with that they're not expensive..

When you mean "donut" do you mean the Harmonic Damper?

If yours is a Diseasel it won't have one on the front diff..

If you mean the coupling for the Prop, mine doesn't have rubber couplings.

How's it going David?

Hows the motor?