rangerovers.pub
The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
Member
offline
1063 posts

As someone who owns a Disco..

Check to make sure it doesn't have a window in the floor..

They like to rot, in all the places you don't look!

Sills - bootfloor - arches - front floors - alpine window frames - etec etc

It's been leaking since i bought her..

The seal has already failed lol

Pulled the inspection port off the bellhousing and found the Input shaft seal for the Autobox is leaking..

Argh!

Not too much of a ballache!

But still annoying!

The knob jockey that wired my LPG pipes covered the coil packs, and ziptied the pipes to the HT leads for some reason..

Blooddy muppets!

mrabody wrote:

I don't know what year in question the Range Rover is but if it's an earlier one, a possible engine conversion option would be a Jaguar AJ16 6 cylinder. They're bomb proof, run Lucas SAGEM engine management and were most commonly bolted to 4HP-22 or 4HP-24 automatics. The N/A 4.0 has 240 HP, and the Supercharged 6 from the XJR ahas 320ish. The only question is whether it will squeeze into the engine bay.

The 6 pot 2.5 BMW unit only just fits in there, i'd doubt the AJ engine would..

Nowt beats the sound of a rover v8

I bought my 2001 Vogue for peanuts knowing it was a sack of shit "to put it mildly" at the time i needed some life back in my soul and the car did the trick..

On the way home from the sellers house the rear NS brake pad flew out and the piston almost popped out the caliper, it was weeping fluid down the tyre and the pedal was getting softer and softer but she made it

Tyres went flat and the BECM shit the bed the interior filled with water and the headliner fell down.

The interior was "and still is" ruined, the exterior needs a respray and the axles need a rebuild..

If I was to guess i'd need to sink a few grand into it to make it a 100% and i will..

Why?

It is simple, money is just that you're a long time dead and you don't take it with you, so i spend it accordingly, you only get one life eh?

Fook what the car is worth, if you like and enjoy the car put some money into it..

Sure you could unload your current P38 and buy an L322 however the early 4.4's aren't good motors with Engine gearbox and axle issues, the M62 is a Nail of a motor and i would't spit on one..

Do i love mine even though it has cost me near a Grand in the past 4 months?

Hell yeah i do..

Looking at it on the drive is good enough for me..

I'd keep it..

Not many 1994 P38s hanging around..

I've always checked when cold, it is the only way in my opinion..

Unless it has a Wankel motor in it lol

Martyuk wrote:

Did you check the IACV? The Thor one is different to the GEMS one - GEMS has a stepper motor that gets gunked up, but the Thor is a different setup where it's a couple of electromagnets which depending on the current being pulsed through them will hold a spring loaded air valve in the correct position.

I've had it on mine where it's got really gunked in there and the valve part hasn't been able to move freely.

I noticed today the throttle cable was looser than a loose thing and the throttle seems to be sealed tighter than a nats arse..

I gave the throttle a few good prods and voila' problem solved!!

Odd car this one..

I noticed the idle was getting a bit odd after giving it a bit of pedal to the metal going past some cyclists..

From what i understand you just take air pipes off the IACV and spray some cleaner int here?

Or does the entire unit come apart?

They have been running high ethanol fuel in America in old cars for a good few years..

I doubt it'll cause it to go all to shit.

No idea Richard.

This is the first time i've rummaged around in there lol she had has sat like that for quite a while, the 5th owner sent me pics from 2013 and she was sitting on the píss then lol .

After a drive around the block it is still pin straight!

enter image description here
enter image description here

I've even got monster truck mode back ;)

enter image description here
enter image description here
enter image description here

much happier now it no longer looks drunk!!

enter image description here

enter image description here

Gilbertd wrote:

How much did you have to alter the heights by, quite a bit I would think. When you come to do the access height, the blocks are about flush with the end of the bumpstops. No problem putting them in but a pain to get them out again. I drilled a hole in the end and tapped it with an M6 thread so I can screw a bolt in to pull them out with.

So now you can either do the motorway and access heights or clean your idle air valve......

The heights were all over the shop, every corner was a different height, i entered new numbers how you said to do them and it levelled up

I nicked my granddads broom handle, he swears it is a good bit shorter now lol " nah it's fine" came my reply!!

enter image description here

The IACV was an odd one, i noticed the throttle cable was looser than a manchester lass, i gave the pedal a hefty prod and it tightened back up.

idle is back to normal..

hmm.

The odd thing is Richard, my brain is saying yeah but no but lol
enter image description here

With the tape it looks good...

It is certainly better than this!
which was "standard" lol
enter image description here

My bubble says it's spot on..

enter image description here

Just calibrated Standard and Wade..

"thanks Richard"

She's sitting at 18" from centre of the wheel to the arch..

Does that sound about right? " in standard"

H

It's a miracle motor Chris putting her in gear kills it though!!

Richard i'm guessing its a good motor then!!

Just a general question..

My recent idle issue has made me think of oil pressure, today it has been sat at 150rpm when cold and 450 when hot, one thing i noticed is the Oil pressure light didn't flicker or come on solid..

Also when turning her off the Oil pressure light takes 7 seconds to come on again...

I'm guessing that is a good thing.. ??

She is running 10w60 Castrol Edge..

Motor sounds lovely too, even at a stupidly low idle!

One thing of note "not at all related" is even at 150rpm the oil pressure light stays off no flickering!!

And yes before anyone says it, the light does work!!

Just replaced the drivers door latch with one Marty rebuilt, which was the one she had originally, that was new but needed a little fettle..

Works pucker, and stops the random locking!!

Happy as a cat with 2 arses.

Oh and the water ingress has halted, no more water pissing in..

The car smells much nicer inside too, the damp smell has disappeared!

Thanks Brian the breather in the rocker cover was loose, i've put it back on with a new clip..

I haven't restarted it yet!!

Symes it does it on Petrol and Gas

Richard..

She's running on both petrol/Gas she starts on petrol and the idle drops to 100 and it then cuts out, it is running on all 8 with no missfires..
When she starts to warm up the idle raises up to 450rpm on Gas and Petrol she runs great on both but the idle is crazy low..

H

Right it has started to Die when i start it from cold..

It is running on all 8 very well the idle is just all over the shop..

It is idling at 100rpm..

When it starts to warm up the idle raises to 450rpm.

Looks like it has failed completely..

Oh well..

H