So...
Low mileage then lol!!
Mine is only 248k behind yours!! ;)
Ah sounds interesting..
I have a few LPG stations close to me, just hope they stay open for a good while.
Fingers Crossed. lol
Just saw someone say it's possible to have an LPG station fitted at your own property so long as it's taxed and meets Regs? .
Would this be possible for someone with enough "land" ?
I know, weird things that go through my head ;)
You can swap the key blades across fobs to keep your original transmitter.
After sitting in a Classic and having a "play" compared to the P38 interior it is very "tacky"
Very Austin maestro like.
The P38 by comparison is just better.
A better interior
A better design in a quality point of view..
Doesn't rot..
The P38 is the last RR to have pure RRC DNA in it..
The Rv8
The solid chassis
Beam Axles
4spd Auto
all very much RRC like but just improved..
Interior quality and design is better, body panels fit better and don't rust.
Style is subjective but i find them equally attractive..
I bought it as a restoration project to complete over the coming years..
Insurance isn't an issue yet..
Just curious about LPG ;)
Martyuk wrote:
Which switch are we talking about? The tailgate switch, or the CDL switch in the door latch?
The drivers door latch and the The rear tailgate latch..
The fuse 15 blows every time i plug in any of the wiring for the tailgate..
I'm just trying to narrow down the short.
Putting my multimeter on ohms and putting the prongs on the terminals in the latch.
The switch itself has a spike of 16.0 OHMS and it gradually drops down to 0.19.
MAke any sense..
Not really a leecy wizard lol
Gilbertd wrote:
That's the one. But test yours first in case the wiring has shorted and there is nothing wrong with the motor.
Ah yes that's a good idea.. Thanks
You Check for resistance across the terminals i'm guessing?
Ah yes thanks..
Is this what i'd be looking for?
I've bought a new/used latch for the drivers door..
The circumstances to how the previous one failed has me worried..
It appeared to die right after i pressed the tailgate button, Fuse 15 went POP and it hasn't worked since.
I've had to disconnect everything in the tailgate to stop the fuse blowing..
I'm thinking as to connect the new latch, will fuse 15 blowing damage the latch?
Also is it possible for a faulty latch to cause the fuse to blow?
Cheers H
Oh so it's most likely the latch motor that has failed in the tailgate causing the fuse to blow?
Would the Drivers latch and tailgate be connected in some way?
For both of them to fail at the same time?
No not one of marty's I got a 2n'd hand one, tested with a 30 money back guarantee.
He also has 100% positive feedback. so i'm not too worried.
When i pressed the tailgate button the fuse went pop!
and it kept going pop until i disconnected all the wires in the tailgate.
rear wiper, rear release button and associated wires.
Which was odd as she worked perfectly the day before!!!
Anyway i have a few questions?!
Oh and i'm uber excited, hopefully i'll get to hear the V8 after a year of sitting!!!!
Cheers all!
Ah cheers.
Is there an increase of interest in LPG as a fuel do you think?
First of all!
1) why is it necessary for the vehicle to be up to temp before it'll switch?
2) Is there an infrastructure building for the fuel?
3) oh and Range!
What is the best range you've all been able to achieve on LPG?
Thankyou
H
My 4.6 Thor starts 60D, quite odd this ;)
Find out what number your P38 is from the Vin??
Bear with..
There were 167000 P38 made, roughly, is it possible to find out what number out of those 167k mine is?
Any help truly appreciated,
Lovely pair you have there ;)