Marty is probably the man to ask but it may be that your valve block driver (eas computer) is caput. They're a bit dear too. Cheapest on ebay is about £100. There's a complete block and driver for sale. If it comes to it, that might be your best bet then at least you'll either have spares, or something to sell on to recoup some cost.
will it raise up manually using EAS unlock suite?
good point. glass out would be a chew but may be the best option.
So ive had a look at mine. You need to take the lower outside trim off first (one screw at each end) and then as pretty much said, pull it off. Bit of a chew as it's aluminium and it bends out of shape easy. Not bothered about the one i'm taking off my car, but I have to remove the one from the donor car. Things may be easier if I could have the window all the way down. Is there a way to do this with the rear window?
Yank at it? Lol. No screws in it?
I'm not being lazy asking. I'm just at work at the minute and was hoping for some ideas before I tackle it later.
Finally found a good exterior window trim to replace my shan one. Anyone know how you get them out?
oh dear. You could close the shade and pretend you still don't have a sunroof!
You reckon the old mechanism was buggered to start with then?
well I couldn't help myself. so I've been out and swapped the wires. All is fixed.
I was trying to get DAB cause theres a few stations I like but I couldn't find a unit that was shallow enough. The DAB ones all seemed to have a deep standard radio depth. I've got internet on it though so I could always get an app.
This is the exact one that I bought. The others were slightly smaller overall and some had a lower resolution screen.
Everything's good. Great signal levels. My sub is still out of action until I respeaker it but funnily enough, the eq available on the new unit allows far more dynamic range than the original head. Cycling through the presets, I was surprised at how much more you could get out of the system instead of just the basic bass and treble. Sounds great even without the sub. Speaking of which, do you have recommendations of some cheap/cheerful replacements?
After i'd posted about the steering controls, I remembered i'd read or watched a video about setting the keymaps. That's when I went looking. There's an endless amount of options but only 5 buttons. lol.
Stock sat nav works good although I downloaded google maps as I like that. GPS picks up straight away with good signal strengths.
Called the Mrs through the Bluetooth connection and she said the sound was good (she's usually dead critical) so the microphone must be half decent too.
Changed the boot logo to Land Rover and downloaded a few things from the Play Store. Torque works good so have basic on board diagnostics too.
All in all, I'm well pleased and apart from my little cockup with the file at the lower right hand corner, I think it almost looks factory installed. I'd recommend the unit to anyone wanting to do the same thing.
Getting married tomorrow so unless I have time in the morning, the 12v wire switcheroo will have to wait.
Thanks for the help. :-)
sorted the steering controls. looked around the android system and found you needed to choose the function, then set it by pressing the button when asked. Just need flip the 12v wires andall done.
Just about done. Cocked up the bottom right corner a bit, but a bead of unibond waterbased black silicone (doesn't go shiny) all the way round should sort it out and finish it off nicely.
2 hitches.
Radio stations aren't saving. I thought I'd wired it up right. There are 2 wires for 12v. A thin red one marked "ACC" and a thicker yellow one marked "12v". I put the yellow 12v to the purple 12v constant from Marty's writeup and the red "acc" one to "white/pink". The thickness of the wires matched up but perhaps these 2 need switching around?
Also, I wired the grey/orange steering controls wire up to key 1 as marty suggested, but nowt happens. Should I try key 2?
Other than that, works like a boss. I took out the interior light fitting and put the gps receiver up inside the roof. Ran the cable along the roof, down the windscreen trim into the dash.
So far so good. Pretty pleased with the fit. It's a snug push fit from the back. I'll secure it tomorrow with some sort of glue.
Thanks very much. I'll make a start on all that now. Got the Dremel.
Regarding the sub output, I suppose the easiest way to find out would be to disconnect the sub feed from the head unit and see what happens. I see what you're saying about the wire being there but it seems strange that the feed goes to the dsp amp first, and then onto the sub. In PA systems, you'd have a left and right going out to the crossover and then on to the amp. Could the sub out on the head be full range that gets filtered later, or could there be a low pass filter within the head??
Thinking about the 3.5mm jack I wired in to the cd changer L&R on my first car, it seems funny that the signal is run from the changer to the head and then back down to the DSP. Why not just run it direct from the changer to the DSP? What role does the head play in the signal path?
Thanks for the input Marty. I'll have a look at it tomorrow.
I agree that the proper way to do it would be to rip it all out. It would be pretty straight forward then. At this moment in time though, i'd prefer to do a minor mod and retain the original gear.
I think the sub is internally fed from the amp. As I say, on my first car, I wired a 3.5mm jack into the cd changer outs on the head unit and it worked a treat. As far as the amp was concerned, it was just getting left and right audio from the cd changer so distributed the signal accordingly as it usually would have.
Looked at buying a couple of attenuators. What would I need to make my own? My nearest bits and bobs shop for that is Maplins.
Did you manage to get the steering controls to work? I see from your wiring write-up that it's a single grey/orange wire. Do the steering controls work on resistance? I have 2 wires on the new loom. One says Key 1 and the other says Key 2. will one of these connect to the steering control wire and the other go to ground? Or will it not work at all? Not bothered, but if I can get it to work that'd be a nice touch.
Had the unit powered up earlier for a look around and it seems good. Decent speed navigating menus, Bluetooth and internet linked up fine and GPS worked on both built in maps and google maps. For 80 odd quid, it looks like it'll be fully loaded all in one box solution. Need to get the dremel out though.
Just got home and had a read of the wiring diagrams. There appears to be lineouts (audio out L and Audio out R) that may be suitable for wiring into the cd changer as I previously did with the 3.5mm jack on the old car.
So that would make it Audio out L goes to the Green wire of the blue connector on the radio and the Audio out R goes to the Purple wire of the blue connector. And ground to ground obviously. No need to use the sub output as the dsp will sort that out.
Am I right or wrong?
I know it's Heath Robinson but there isn't much choice.
Back when I bought my car, the navigation that was in was caput and I messed about with the screen for a while to see if I could make use of it as just a screen. That was to no avail so I was looking for something to fill the hole. Toyed with the idea of one of these android gps thingys and then stumbled upon a post that Marty had made on another forum a while back. That sealed the deal and this just arrived this morning.
I just thought i'd ask what the best way of getting it into the dsp amp setup is. The last car I had, I wired a 3.5mm jack to the cd changer outs on the back of the radio. Suited the purpose and I could plug a phone or a tablet in. You needed to have a cd in the changer though to fool the car into thinking that it's playing. This is slightly different as it has it's own amp. 4x45w @ 4ohm. What's the way to go about linking it in?
Original radio is still in place and I wasn't going to remove it. Just a left and right from the new one into the old system will suffice. Unless someone has a good idea.
Thanking you much so!
Could get him a vogue SE badge.
I'm definitely on board. Bonus!
You got it going yet Super4?