Excellent. Good luck.
Mitre mate 2 part. You won't need a clamp. Sets in 10 secs. You'll just have to be quick.
super4 wrote:
Thanks - will do - how long does it take for petrol to get back in order ? and how do you tell when it is right ?
Will take 2-3 days to make sure.
You'll know it's right because it won't feel like a bucking mule at idle. Idle should be around 730rpm and it will be smooth as silk. In fact, it should be that nice, you'll wonder if the engine is running at all.
When you've got it to that stage, then and only then can you begin calibrating the lpg.
If you can't get the petrol to this stage, you have underlying problems on the petrol side such as HT Leads, injectors or spark plugs that must be fixed first.
A word on calibrating. Don't switch to lpg and leave it idling while you set yourself up for calibration. Have everything ready to g and get straight on with it. Idling it on a bad lpg configuration with a good petrol configuration will immediately begin to alter the fuel trims again. You'll be back to square one.
Suspension delay timer won't stop lights coming on or suspension working. Its only function is to self level the car after you've got out and periodically wake the becm to make sure it's still level. A bizarre feature in my view. I personally am not that anal to want my car perfectly level everytime I look at it out the window. Clearly the designers thought this needed to be a must have feature and a selling point. Lol.
Another good one for battery drains is rogue RF signals waking the BECM up. Everytime the car sees one, it gets ready to unlock the car as it thinks your coming. RF receiver is in the boot on the drivers side under the parcel shelf support trim.
Not sure if your year p38 is the one that people put a direct wire from the battery to the alternator. Gilbert will know.
Battery Goes flat over night............what's the voltage on the battery in the morning?
Need to be finding what's pinching all of the current.
Is your suspension moving at all overnight? if so or not sure, pull the suspension delay timer relay out and temporarily replace it with a standard relay. Delay timer relay is under passenger seat. Take plastic surround off. It's the tall relay. Cant miss it. If your battery stops draining, you've found the problem.
I had battery drain on mine when I got it and an EAS leak was the cause. Delay timer was waking the BECM up all the time. My battery was also caput though as the previous owner had just kept charging it and knackered it. You have just fitted a new battery so the health of it should be good. Worth a look at that delay timer though.
Post the part number from the fuse box and someone will confirm if it's the correct one for your car.
Man, I thought that you would have been bombing around running sweet as a nut on LPG by now.
All of the previous posts give good advice and LPGC offers a good example of how "fixing a long term issue highlights other problems".
As i've previously said, my car had 2 leaky petrol injectors. Simon managed to set the lpg up to compensate and although it ran great, we knew that there was a problem. Compensating the mix and forgetting about it was just sticking a bandage on it for the short term. As soon as i fixed the leaky petrol injectors, i ran into problems with the lpg running awful. It didn't have to be compensated anymore and needed to be setup again because i fixed the underlying problem with the car. The petrol side of things ran wonderful.
Your car will run like crap for a while whilst the fuel trims are being reset. It may seem like it's getting worse but persevere. All of a sudden it will begin to improve and before you know it, your petrol side will be sorted. Then run a new calibration for the lpg. That'll take less than 5 minutes.
You can't stick the roof on before you build the walls!
Gilbertd wrote:
I've got the licence for GEMS but it will still connect to a diesel or a Thor and do everything except the engine (which you can do with a generic scanner anyway).
So if i bought the nano for my car, it would still plug into the father-in-laws diesel tractor and give me the same access to systems except the EMS?
Sadly my Hawkeye diagnostic deal fell through. Would've been cheap enough at £100 but the guy has decided to keep it. So no diagnostics for me at the moment.
Since it looks as though i'm going to be buying a new one at full price, I might aswell look at all the options. I know that people would consider the BBS stuff to be the best, but which diagnostic tool is the most appropriate?
I know of 5.
Nanocom, Faultmate, Lynx, Hawkeye and EASunlock V4.
They all vary in price and capabilities and the hawkeye has the added benefit of covering all Landrover models so good from a resale point of view.
Whilst I have no issues buying a nanocom, my question is do I need it? Will I get an extra £100 of use out of it compared to the hawkeye or Lynx or will I be buying the best tool that's just filled with many functions I don't need/understand or shouldn't mess about with?
Would like a bit of non biased advice and perhaps a brief comparison or example of some of the things you can and can't do with them.
The list of functions are available on the respective websites, but are a little unclear at times for the uninitiated.
For example, the hawkeye says it can programme the BECM and the tramsmission of my 2000 4.6. In what way would the nanocom programme it differently or what additional functions would the nanocom have that I may need? Can hawkeye reset the adaptive values of the gearbox if required?
The hawkeye can't programme the EMS of a 2000 4.6 V8 but says it can do "Maintenance". What's that supposed to mean?
As I understand it, the nanocom can programme the EMS. Do I need or will I need that functionality?
If it's justifiable, i'll buy it. I just don't want to spend an extra £100 on a unit that has specialist functions that a general DIY'er should be poking around with if you know what I mean. Likewise, i'd hate to spend £300 and then find out that I should have spent the extra £100 after all.
It may appear to be a silly post but I'm pretty sure at some point, other people would find the information useful to make an informed decision as the manufacturers websites all claim that their product is the one to have.
Thanks a lot :-)
Ok. I think I've read that if it's bust, you van just put a new sensor somewhere else on the pipe that's a bit more accessible. Is that right or is it an easy one to reach?
Simpler times.
Man made it, man can fix it! You'll get it sorted.
Cool pics man!
Couple of Willy's for sale on ebay at the moment. They're not the best family vehicle though. LOL.
Is that the pipe inside the dash on the left of the drivers footwell?
Doesn't matter how long it takes the car to warm up. Cold days longer, warm days shorter. Book only comes on when temperature gauge gets bang centre.
And that would happen even with the fans turned off?
You get this sorted?
New diagnostics may arrive tomorrow so I shall soon know the answer. In the meantime, I thought it might be fun if anyone wants to play guess the fault.
Symptoms
Start car from cold. Drive as normal. As soon as temperature gauge gets to normal operating temperature (in the middle) I get the book signal. Turn car off and back on, book symbol goes away.
Leave the car an hour while you go shopping, drive away but when gets back up to temperature, no book symbol.
Leave the car to cool down for a couple of hours, drive away and when gets back up to temperature, book symbol comes on.
No other symptoms at all. Nothing makes noise, runs rough or anything. Happens with hevac fans on or off and heating appears to work as it should. Blows hot and cold where you ask it to.
Any ideas what it might be?
As for the rough running on Super4's car, so far there is everything to suggest that the rough running may have been brought on by the petrol side trying to retrim a poor functioning lpg. That's exactly what it will do. You say it's ok at 70mph on LPG but you are piling the fuel and air into it at that point. It's when you're at idle it'll feel like you're sat on top of a washing machine. You won't diagnose rough running at all whilst you are still using the LPG. You need to just run it on petrol and diagnose from there. Even running it at idle for 10 mins on LPG will alter your trims if you've got problems.
When I got my car, it ran a bit rough on petrol, but fine on LPG. After a couple of weeks the petrol was that bad it was almost undriveable and the lpg was beginning to go the same way. I ran it for 3 days on petrol only and by the 3rd day, it was driving like it had just left the factory. I took it to LPGC and he suspected a leaky petrol injector. Turned out he was right and there were actually 2. By running it on petrol, the car was able to compensate and sort itself out but by switching back and forth from petrol to LPG as multi point does, it couldn't begin to correct and consequently only got worse.
Forget about the LPG for a few days. You know it works now. Concentrate on getting the petrol right. Check for vacuum leaks and compare bank A and B injector timings. Check the spark plugs. These things are free to check.
I bought new coil packs, ignition leads, spark plugs and an Injector to make sure I had all bases covered. In the end, it was only the injector problem that needed fixing. I bought an injector refurb kit and cleaned them all up with carb cleaner whilst clicking them on and off with a home made device and 9v battery. I only changed the coil packs, leads and spark plugs because I had already bought them on the off chance that the injectors weren't at fault as there was no way of knowing for sure until I got in there and had a look. If you have the GEMS engine it's easier to get to all of that to check it than on the Thor engine.
I'm only speaking from my recent experience. I know nowt about cars. Just what I've had to learn to solve a problem. You might just have a loose bulb for all I know.
I think you just apply a 2nd bank corrector %. My pinj were lower on bank 2 so altered the mix on that side to compensate.
**Edit. Don't know why I bothered writing that OB. You already know anyway. lol.
You need to give it a good couple of days running on petrol so that the fuel trims can reset themselves. A mixture of round town driving and motorway. I have the Thor engine and a couple of days sorts mine out. I'm not sure if the Gems engine is different.
Once it's running perfect on petrol, then you can begin with the LPG calibration. If there's the slightest problem on petrol, it will be magnified on LPG. The idea is that the car doesn't know it's running on LPG. The LPG system is slaved off the petrol. That's why your petrol fuel trims need to be correct to begin with as the car will always try to adapt and correct the mixture if it thinks it's not right. It can correct the petrol timings, but it cannot correct the LPG system. Which again is why if your petrol side is not right and you calibrate the LPG to it, the car will try and adapt to correct itself which then throws your LPG out and creates rough running. If it's happy on petrol, it will have no need to alter anything. But, you then must ensure that the LPG calibration matches the petrol or the car not knowing that it's running on LPG, will think that the petrol is not right and try and correct itself. You'll be going around in circles.
It's easy enough to do. Just get the petrol right first. Then it's a case of calibrating the LPG and watching the petrol injector timings and fuel trims while it is running on LPG. If they just about match, you've got it right. If there's a big difference in injector timings between petrol and LPG, you'll have problems. All you'll need to do is either make the LPG mix richer or leaner.
LPGC is your man for these sorts of things. I'm just putting down what I've learned from sorting my car out.
Orangebean wrote:
super4 wrote:
Thanks - if I had to, do you think that I could do a recalibration with the equipment and knowledge I have and forum help or is it something to avoid
You could do an Auto Calibration after getting all of the config in line with what you do have but...
A main pre-condition to AutoCal is that the car is running spot on in Petrol- settled trims, all that kind of thing. If you're sure thats the case, AutoCal will get things in the ball park but you then need to tweak the maps to get it running right all across the range.
If it's already in the ball park (I love these Americanisms) anyway (as I said above) then why bother?
After sorting my leaky injectors, I knew that my LPG would need re-doing. Simon had pointed me in the direction of cables and said I should be able to do it myself. I left it a couple of days to get the petrol fuel trims right and then had a look at it. I tweaked the settings Simon had already done and thought I had it right, but within a couple of days it was running like shite. Bank 2 o2 kept going off as the fuel trims had gone beyond the range. Bank 1 never moved though. I messed about with it over the course of a week but to no avail. Finally I decided to do a new calibration. I ran it on petrol for a couple of days until everything was running real nice. As Orangebean says, it must be running right on petrol first. I set the auto calibration going and followed the onscreen instructions. Piece of cake and done in less than 10 minutes. I haven't had to tweak anything and I think it's running smashing. Been good for 2 weeks now with no problems.
Don't be afraid of having a go yourself.
Save the current configuration first. If you bugger anything up, just revert to that.