I have got a Faultmate MSV2 so not familiar with the Hawkeye.
I have just looked at some of my old scans and the engine ECU scan, labelled EDC inputs, does not actually say "Boost Temperature".
It does however say "Air Temperature" instead which I assume is the same, just different terminology.
I remember reading on the Blackbox forum that the later diesel models all show -40 deg C air temp because the temperature compensation is built into the later MAF and the input is not used. Mine actually reads -38.88 deg C and never alters.
I think the diagnostic software from the factory was never tidied up when the later MAF was fitted.
Why it should show 124.8 deg? No idea.

I didn't know any model p38 used Connolly hide. I remember Rolls Royce used to make a big thing about Connolly hide. Cows were raised specially in southern Italy in fields where there was no barbed wire fences, so their hides would not get scratched. Ha Ha.

The windscreen trims are worth keeping if you can salvage them. As leolito says the side ones are as he described. I have just taken mine off to be resprayed last week.
The top trim is easy to damage so a bit of care is needed. It has pins welded to the roof that look like nail heads every couple of inches. Plastic clips slot into them and hold the trim on. You need to push the trim sideways to disengage the pins Been a while since I have done it. Too rough and you can bend or buckle the trim.
Once it is off the whole of the windscreen is exposed showing where it is glued all round. Then use cheese wire if you can thread the end through. Two man job I think. May need to take the interior side trim panels off as well.

I bought another car towards the end of last year, a Volvo, which had some bad gouges in the side bolster of the drivers seat. The previous owner must have had keys hanging on his belt or something.
I took it to a specialist auto leather repair shop. He did a superb job and the seat was restored good as new. He was telling me that all so called leather seats in modern cars all use PU leather (polyurethane) while old vintage cars used aniline leather, which is discontinued in most countries due to health issues with the aniline dyes.

There are many different types of PU leather apparently. Some are 100% synthetic like faux leather, others are real leather with a PU finish.
My Volvo was PU leather (described as real leather seats) and I assume the p38 seats are as well. Though not all the panels in the p38 seats are leather either. I have taken mine apart to repair the seat heaters and only the center part of the base and back are real leather. The rest is plastic.

Cracks and splits can be repaired if you have got the right equipment. The guy had an old Triunph TR3, an old Mercedes and a Porche in his garage and the seats on all of them had been restored.

I asked about cleaning and he basically said just a damp rag on PU leather. I am guessing but I would imagine saddle soap is for untreated leather.

My other car is a Volvo V60 diesel hybrid. I wanted a car that would tow 2 tonnes as a back up to my p38.
Very cheap to run (excluding maintenance costs). It will average 52 mpg on a 100 mile run and 40 mpg round town.
The first 30 miles are on battery. I can get the equivalent of 4.2 battery charges for the price of a gallon of diesel or 126 mpg in theory. 90% of my journeys are on battery. Zero road tax and £360 fully comp insurance. 300 bhp !

Hi guys. Bit late to the party but where exactly do you meet up?
Do you all book into a local hostelry? What do I do with her indoors?
Anyone stay in a caravan? I could bring mine.

Thanks Richard. No leaks (as yet)
I never fitted any rubber gaskets either. Can't really see the point. They don't seal against anything and are there to stop the rails squeeking I believe. They don't squeek if the clips are done up tight.

Took the roof rails off ready for spraying. Quick question ... are there any drains in the roof rail channels?
There doesn't appear to be. I stuck a hose nozzle in the channel to clear out the muck and make sure the sliding covers work OK.

I have read through this a couple of times now and nowhere do you mention tyre pressures, unless I have missed it.
It is the biggest single factor that affects tramlining and wandering, imho. If you are on standard 16" wheels it should be 28 front/ 38 psi rear.
You obviously need decent tyres and the same make and type on each axle, not odd tyres. A lot of people think they know better and try other pressures. Stick with factory.
Has the tracking been done after doing all the work on the front end replacing bushes and ball joints? You can do it yourself if you buy the kit. I did, and it wasn't too expensive. I also agree with Morat about the Viscous Coupling.
Steering boxes have a very long life as long as the fluid has been changed.

I replaced the rubbers on my speakers a year or two ago. Not something I would recommend doing again though.
They had to be cut to fit then glued in place. They worked for a bit but the amp has now gone kaput.
Fixing the subwoofer is on my list of lockdown jobs. I am hoping it is just something simple like a fuse or wrong settings on my head unit.
I could do with a cheap signal injector to trace the problem. Any recommendations guys? I mean really really cheap.

A rainy day today so I took the grill off and repainted it with Forever Black in the garage.
Also repaired a few cracks in the plastic with a soldering iron and some ABS filament.

Finished spraying the windscreen side trims and refitted them. Door rubbers glued back with Evo Stick contact adhesive.

Dismantled roof rail cross bars and sanded and sprayed the aluminium extrusion parts. Plastic bits went in the dishwasher.

Good practical point. Thanks SuperMod.

Sanded and resprayed one of the windscreen side trims. Ordered some stainless self tappers. I normally replace all non critical bolts and screws with stainless.
Door rubber needs sticking back. It was stuck on with double sided tape. I might just use gorilla glue this time.

When I have done it in the past, I have only used the 100 front/105 rear blocks.
Just lift it up using diagnostics, put the blocks on the pads, then lower the car onto the blocks.
That will give you readings for all four corners at standard height. Then just save the readings to the ECU.
The car will be dead level and at the correct standard height. That height will be set.
I then measured from the wheel center to the mudguard with a tape measure.
Remove the blocks and raise/lower the car so motorway and off road heights are set accordingly based on the tape reading for that corner.
From memory motorway height is -1" and off road is +2". My Gen III's are +4"

Wire brush followed by hammerite put on with a 1" brush, imho. Also don't paint the outside of the pulley where the belt grooves are.

I would agree with that. Wind the windows down in the middle of the Sahara desert and the problem would soon go away.

I made my own cable up using an OBD plug and a 9 pin serial plug off something else.

JMC, it will dry out bone dry given time. I know from experience. The moisture slowly evapourates out of everything.
I have used my dehumifiers for drying out lots of things. Carpets in the caravan, carpets in the house after using a carpet cleaner, wallpapering, fresh plaster in the house, as well as drying the inside my p38 a couple of times.
As I mentioned I also have one permanently running in my workshop to stop corrosion. It absolutely dries everything out. Makes for a far more pleasant environment as well, particularly with UK weather.
The principle to prevent corrosion is to lower the humidity so it is always above the dew point. At night the temperature drops and you get condensation on cold metal surfaces. This occurs at the dew point and is the cause of corrosion. The dew point temperature varies with the % humidity in the air. Lower the humidity and condensation does not occur until a much lower temperature.
Regarding the smells, I think they should largely go when the carpets are completely dried out. The musty type smell is microbial. A couple of deep vacuums may be needed.
If you have already gone to all the trouble of taking the carpets out, a more thorough job would be to use a commercial carpet cleaner on it .
A couple of clean water rinses then put the carpet in a sealed room with a dehumidifier running 24/7 to dry it out.

Checked axle oil levels.All OK.
Took wiper arms off and resprayed them black. Look good now.
Used T cut on the windscreen side trims, which I left in place, and sprayed them with clear laquer. It did not like the acrylic laquer I used.
5 or 6 coats later it looked a mess. Blistering in places. I flattened it with 1200 paper and resprayed it but this time with Plasticote. Still not right. I will have to take the side trims off and respray them black.