The best way to dry out the inside of a car is to use a dehumidifier. Leave it running 24/7 and see the water container slowly fill up. Leave it running overnight and when the car is parked up. It may take a week to thoroughly dry out. My car was getting damp inside over the winter causing the headlining to drop a bit. Dried out in a couple of days. I must have condensed a litre of water.
The aircon has a similar effect but how many of us have a working aircon? Aircon needs to be running on auto all the time even with the heating on.
I have a couple of dehumidifiers that I bought on Maplin yonks ago, though I have seen an updated version in a B&Q warehouse recently for about £55.
One stays permanently in my workshop at the back of the garage to stop my tools and lathes getting rusty. The other usually stays in the caravan to keep it dry.
Power useage is minimal. Highly recommended imho.
Yeah. It is a bit like a confessional. Very therapeutic.
Unplugging the BBUS siren doesn't appear to have triggered any alarms (yet).
I read another post, Richard, where you gave the procedure for disconnecting it.
They are quite dear to buy new. Cheapest is about £100.
As a matter of interest has anybody replaced the NiCad batteries in them?
StrangeRover, Terrafirma make a wide range of shocks and there are at least 3 options for the p38 that I know of.
You should have TF145/6 from what you said. They are rated as +2".
If you compared the fronts side by side, they are similar lengths. I remember I raised my original front Boges an extra 2" with diagnostics but I lost damping at that height. It was like a bouncy castle. I ended up lowering it back down a bit to +1.5".
In fact I fitted front Boges on the rear as well and ran with fronts all round for a bit.
The rear Boge dampers however are quite a bit shorter than the front Boges. If you put a Boge rear next to a Terrafirma TF145 rear you will see the +2" difference I am sure.
The point I was making about fitting +2" shocks without other mods is that on over extension It could pull the air bag apart or damage the brake lines. I think on the front it wouldn't be a problem but on the rear the extra range would be.
Chris, I am no electrical expert but I have been there before with electrical drain.
The most useful bits of kit I have bought are first a DC clamp on ammeter. It will read a wide range from 100's of amps down to a few milliamps.
DC meters are not cheap, unlike AC clamp on meters which are no use on cars. I have used it many times to check if the BECM goes asleep.
In my case I eventually bought a Mk3 receiver.
Also useful is one of these for checking individual circuits:
Just take the fuse out and plug the probe in instead. It tells you the current flowing in that individual circuit.
I have also invested in a professional battery tester. Bought s/h on Ebay.
Must be a hell of a current to see it off in 23 seconds !
I spoke a bit too soon.
Ticking off some more jobs on the car while we are on lockdown, I have just replaced my accumulator and changed the brake fluid.
Then discovered the clicking had returned !
Investigating further, I disconnected the battery and loosened the fuse box and I now think the clicking sound has been coming from the siren underneath. I have left it unplugged and there has been no repetition so far. I have also put the original relay back in. Seems I might have wasted £33 on the new relay.
Can't think what could cause it to click. Seemed to be rapid and regular, then pauses, a few slow clicks, then stops for a bit, then starts again. All with no key in the ignition. I think I have turned the alarm off in the BECM. Will need to check.
I have had my p38 for 18 years now. Is that a record? I bought it 2 years old from a main dealer.
Hadn't had it long when we decided to go on a food and drink themed holiday in France with the caravan. My favourite type of holiday.
I remember visiting a village for lunch somewhere, the Dordogne I think, and there were some open fields and a woods next to it. I hadn't had the car long and was eager to explore off road and see what it could do.
I went hurtling across this field in long grass at a rate of knots, like about 30 mph, and suddenly right in front of me was a drainage ditch right across the field hidden by the long grass !
I skidded and plunged down into the ditch and hit the bank on the other side. The car nearly sumersaulted right over. We were wearing seat belts otherwise we would have been catapulted out. We ended up at 45 deg. Wife was hysterical.
It forced the valance back and bent the gearbox oil cooler, otherwise it was OK.
I have also reversed into my trailer A frame which I had left in the up position. The dent in the upper tailgate is still there.
I had had the car a couple of years and was still not really familiar with it. I previously had a classic and a discovery 1 but done no work on a p38. I bought it with 12 months factory warranty still on it and the dealer put a further 18 months on it. I had not joined any forums at that time so was green as far as p38's were concerned.
One day I was charging the battery and for some reason I had taken the plastic cover off the engine ECU box next to it. One of the charger clips came off and touched the metal ECU case causing a spark. Engine wouldn't start and I ended up getting it towed to an Independant Landrover Garage in North Wales. The warranty had expired by this stage.
Diagnosis was that I had spiked the Bosch engine ECU causing it to fail. It looked as though the BECM was OK.
Keeping a straight face, as they all do, the mechanic behind the counter said a new one is £1200 !
WTF !!! I said I will get back to him.
I rang my insurers and the girl who dealt with it, bless her little heart, said it is an accident just like filling your car up with the wrong fuel, so you are covered. I ended up paying a £100 xs as I remember. The insurance company picked up the tab for the rest.
After that I got more familiar with the car and bought the diagnostics. I have also built up quite a stock of spares off Ebay. I have bought engine ECU's for about £25 and programmed and chipped them myself.
I have just replied to the same question on "the other side".
I have got Terrafirma TF145/6 Pro dampers with Gen III's. The spring rate(s) on Gen III's is also different than Dunlops as well, just to complicate matters. The spring rate actually varies with the height setting. Gen III's are softer off road, harder at standard and motorway height. The piston shape varies the spring rate.
If I was in the market for dampers now I would look at TF adjustables.
However, I have just had a thought, StrangeRover, fitting +2" dampers to a car without modding the rest e.g. air bags/ brake lines/ rear sensor arms. It might cause damage when the axle drops and is over extended.
I bought two panels that fit either side of the rear parcel shelf. don't know how many watts they are.
Never fitted. Another project that was never completed. Got them from Maplin, who have since gone bust.
Of course all of this is not the slightest help to you. Sorry.
Replaced the brake accumulator, which was surprisingly tightly screwed on. Had to use an oil filter strap to loosen it.
Changed the brake fluid and then followed the Rave bleeding procedure. The job took most of the day.
I couldn't get the front wheels off. Took over an hour to loosen them. You can't easily get at the front brake bleed nipples unless you take the wheels off. I had them powder coated a few months back which had obviously made them a tight fit on the central spiggot.
A number of guys that have been banned on RR.net over the years have gone on to join this forum.
Are they going to be let back in on RR.net ? A slap on the wrist and told don't be a naughty boy again?
I was also going to ask if Toad is still alive and kicking. He doesn't contribute anything these days on the p38 forum. He obviously must be though.
A bit like Mark Twain "The reports of my death are greatly exaggerated".
What ?? Toad recommended you !!! I've heard everything now. Ha Ha.
Do you have to learn to be a moderator on Rangerovers.net ? .... Insulting all newbies and those that ask dumb questions?
or saying "do a search". Hope it doesn't end up like Landyzone.
Seriously you are one of the most helpful guys on here (and there) with long and detailed answers that go beyond the call of duty.
You and Marty of course.
I fitted a gearbox temperature gauge to mine when I fitted a HP24 box. I got Ashcrofts to weld in a pocket into the gearbox sump pan.
I cannibalised an aftermarket gauge and mounted the LED readout in the dash behind one of the unused black sections.
Ran it for many years then it packed in and I couldn't find the same type. Must revisit the project.
It was really useful towing.
I have just been on RangeRovers.net and I notice that Richard_G is now a super moderator !!
What goes round comes around. I wonder if Gilbertd has an opinion on that ?
Island4x4 delivered the level sensor even though I told them to knock it off the order.
I can confirm that it is the wrong one. It is for a classic.
I had a classic that made a hissing sound on a tight lock. Never solved it. Tried a fluid change. It did it the whole time I owned it, but no other steering problems. It was quite loud. Sounded like a massive earth moving truck. Impressed passengers.
The steering box is adjustable, though I must admit I have not done it on my p38. Not needed to.
I have adjusted the steering box on my classic, however. I assume most older landrover models with recirculating ball steering work the same.
I put the front wheels up on axle stands, slackened off the locknut on the steering box, then screwed the central adjuster in until the backlash was taken out of the steering. Then retighten the locknut. Easy job, but don't overdo the tightening.
One of the jobs on the back burner on my p38 is to replace the steering hoses. There is always a slight weep and it looks a mess. I fancy stainless steel braided hoses if I can find the right fittings. Anyone done it?
With bushes, like a lot of other things on the car, there are usually 3 choices: shitpart, OEM and genuine.
More often than not, I go for OEM. Middle of the road I guess.
It does depend on the part though. Occasionally I do order factory L/R and sometimes even Britpart for non critical items. Pollen filters just recently.
Welcome BeaDy. That was quick .... 2 hours ! The ink was barely dry on the invitation !
There are a lot of clever buggers on here. You will feel at home.
I have got Arnott Gen III's with Terrafirma +2" dampers.
Better in all respects except the ride at std height. Spring rate and dampers combine to give a stiffer ride.
If I was replacing dampers now, I would look at the adjustable dampers that Terrafirma do. They are adjustable on the car.
Just dial in what you want.
I don't have a proper plug for the sensor unfortunately. I have also moved the relay since then. I didn't like where it was.