I have got a clamp on DC meter and it is a very useful piece of kit for checking if the BECM goes to sleep. I have used it a few times.
I see the prices have come down to about half of what I paid 8 or 10 years ago.
Another useful tester when looking for circuits using power is this one:
You take the fuse out and replace it with the end of the probe and you can see how much current the circuit is pulling.
Many years ago I had a fault on my DSE auto gearbox. At the time it was then fitted with the original HP22 box.
The fault put the car into limp mode and stuck in 3rd gear, but it was a soft fault, i.e. it cleared everytime the ignition was turned off then on again.
I suspected a speed sensor that was detecting a slipping clutch. I decided in the end to change the box and I fitted a HP24 box that I had. No more problems after that. Not sure if any of that helps.
I would make sure the battery is OK to start with. Low voltage can throw up lots of weird faults.
Is the big connector under the header tank damaged or corroded? Are the pins OK? There are a couple of sensors on the transfer box, a speed sensor and a temperature sensor. Gearbox ECU's are pretty reliable, never usually a problem but I have a spare DSE auto ECU if you want to try swapping it. There are a couple of versions however. Are the ECU's original or were they changed with the gearbox?
Transfer box ECU's do burn out if the actuator solenoid jams. I have a spare.
Will your nano work on a diesel if you have a petrol licence?
Wade pneumatic brass fittings also work very well. The type that has a spigot that the pipe goes over and ferrules that tighten down over the pipe.
I put my Tee in the 6mm line to the tank and I fitted a gauge and shrader valve at the front. I also carry a 12v heavy duty air compressor around that cost me about 100 quid ! With a foot pump you would be there all day.
I have a bench valve block tester if anyone is interested. No charge. I live near Chester.
I have fitted Arnott Gen III's to mine. Had them on now for ten years or so.
The standard pins will fit. I remember running an electric drill bit through the holes to make sure they slide in OK.
Since then I have replaced the pins with stainless steel R clips that I sourced on Ebay. It was a number of years ago however.
There are many suppliers. This is an example of the type I mean:-
You will have to match the size as close as possible. Stainless doesn't rust unlike the original ones.
Addendum: I have got a spare pin in the garage which I can measure if you want.
I have got a 2000 with 4 wheel TC. Due to the traction being so good with the vehicle anyway, it is very difficult to get the TC to come on.
I had to put my foot down in deep mud and get the wheels spinning to get a response and prove it is actually working.
One scenario where it would be useful is if you are crossing a ditch diagonally and have a wheel suspended in the air.
I seem to be the only one on here with a hybrid by the sounds of it.
Just to clarify, hybrids are exempt from road tax if registered before March 2017, after that it is just the first year only as davew mentioned.
I particularly wanted a diesel hybrid for a variety of reasons but there aren't many that do them. Mercedes do one but it doesn't have a very good reputation if you read the forums, and also Volvo, which mine is. They only did them for a few years and decided that from a marketing point of view it wasn't a good idea. All their hybrids are now petrol. I think maybe Peugeot does a diesel hybrid as well but I wouldn't buy a Peugeot.
As regards pollution, diesels put out less CO2 per mile compared to the equivalent petrol engined car. Nitrous oxides are also taken care of now by the latest generation engines which inject urea solution (adblue). Mine isn't one of these unfortunately.
The biggest problem I see is particulates. The diesel particulate filter should work at low speeds around town but it then dumps the soot when you put your foot down.
Early days yet but I have done about 2,500 miles in my Volvo and I estimate about 1000 of that by battery. Mine is a phev. It plugs in to a 13 amp socket and the 11.4 KWh battery gives a theoretical range of 30 miles. Best I have had is 26 miles though.
With what I am paying for electricity, I am getting 4.2 charges for the equivalent price of a gallon of diesel, so you can look at it as 110 mpg.
I have applied for a smart meter so I can go on a night tariff so hoping to achieve 250 mpg equivalent.
Now I know a bit more about it, the charging points are a mess nationally with lots of different providers. I have found a few supermarkets and other places where it is free but most charge. Some as much as 30p/KWh which is as expensive as diesel or petrol. Having a pure EV car would be nightmare unless you could charge it at home and at work with a fast charger.
I have got a "little black p38 book" with my scribblings in over the years.
It says:-
brake booster/ ECU
...... 99 and up all models , 4 wheel TC ..... SXC100010 / SRD100501
........to WA410481, no TC ...........................STC2779 / ANR1250
........from WA410482, 2 wheel TC ..............STC2778 / ANR4898
Not sure where ANR2239 fits in.
Someone on RR.net has fitted a later booster to an earlier car. Had to rewire it as I remember. Harness is different.
I replaced my seals a few months back along with new wheel bearings, ball joints and bushes.
I don't remember any particular difficulty fitting the seals. I just knocked them in with a hide mallet.
Make sure they go in square and tap all round as they go in bit by bit. Finished off by knocking the seal flush with the surrounding casting.
I am half way between Northwich and Chester. I have a Faultmate, not a Nanocom.
I can read your BECM and let you know what the settings are. If necessary turn things on.
Won't work on a p38 diesel. Different protocol.
I have not long bought a phev. Had it about 2 months now. Sorry guys, it is not a Landrover model. It is a Volvo.
Still keeping the p38 though. I have the full diagnostics and a shed full of bits and I can find my way round the car.
Wife wanted a change from her little Fiesta and I talked her into part ex'ing it. I wanted a second car that would tow as a backup to the rangey.
Early days yet, but the car has been brilliant. This one is a diesel/electric hybrid, not so common.
Didn't really buy it to save the planet, more to save my wallet.
It certainly sounds like a glow plug problem. Clouds of black smoke means unburnt fuel.
There is a relay for the glow plugs (and an 80 amp fuse built into the relay), located in the ECU box at the back of the battery.
You can test the glow plugs in situ with a multimeter to see if power is switched on to them when the bulb is lit.
Check the tracks on the relay to see if there is any corrosion or burning.
Oponeo are based in London, but just had notification from DPD (the carrier) that the tyres are on the way.
They are currently in Salamanca, Spain !!!
The viscous clutch test I believe involves jacking up a wheel and trying to turn it with a long bar to verify it is free.
Never tried it, but maybe I should add it to the servicing schedule, like greasing ABS sensors?
Anyone done it and got a write up on the exact procedure?
Clive, I would forget about the General Grabber recommended tyre pressures and stick to the factory 28F/38R.
Are you on 255/65/R16 tyres?
May not solve all your problems but should be an improvement.
Harv said:
To be nit picky, the volume of air, not pressure, sets the height. The weight of the vehicle sets the pressure
Yes, you are right Harv. That is a better way of explaining it.
Thanks, I have decided to go with General Grabber AT3's from Oponeo. Delivery next week.
AT3's on the front and AT2's on the back, all standard size.
The spring rate for an air bag is determined by the profile of the piston part at the bottom. The elasticity of the rubber bladder doesn't set the spring rate. It is the piston going in and out. The air pressure just sets the ride height.
For example, I fitted Arnott Gen III's and, because the piston is machined with a different cross sectional area at each ride height, it has different spring rates compared with Dunlops. They are harder on the motorway and at std height, yet softer off road. Anyway I digress.
Tyre pressures for standard tyres should be 28F/38R. It is very important as I have found and I am running General Grabber AT2's.
Prices seem to be all in the same range.
I bought my Lucas LX31MF from Eurobatt. It says dual purpose and 1000 CCA. I have taken dual purpose to mean leisure ie. deep cycle and engine starting.
My experience has been good with them. Diesel starting is a lot more demanding and it has been OK.
I went through a period when my BECM kept being woken up (before I fitted the latest receiver) and the battery was completely flattened on more than one occasion. Because the battery is deep cycle I got away with it I think.
I have actually got 3 Lucas LX31MF batteries. Two old ones are in my caravan and a newer one in my diesel p38. The caravan is quite heavy and has a motor mover fitted. It pulls 85 amps when in use and I fitted twin batteries and a marine change over switch so I don't get stuck. I also changed the connections so they are the same as the car. It didn't make sense buying different batteries. I am also a tight git.
From experience, the car battery starts to play up after 3 years, usually when the warranty runs out. I then put a new one on the car and the old one goes on the caravan. I think the car battery is coming up to two years old. The caravan batteries are probably 5 years and 8 or 9 years old.
The older one is not holding a charge as well as the other so I will probably buy a new one for the car soon.
The case looks the same as the Hankook I think or maybe I am wrong. I also notice it now has a 4 year warranty.
I have also noticed that other manufacturers are pedalling the same battery with their badge on it: