tanis8472 wrote:
One person in particular was the reason I left
begins with a W ?
I have just got off the phone to Mukiwa, or Hoppy to his friends. He has been a regular contributor on here over the years.
He lives near me in Cheshire. We met up after contacting each other on this forum and have kept in touch ever since.
Not spoke to him for a few weeks so just got in touch again.
He has had Corona Virus !!!
Pretty bad by the sound of it. He is a tough guy, 25 years in the Royal Marines. Thankfully he is getting over it. We wish him well.
He said it is OK to mention it on here.
I was Dave4x4 on Landyzone. Don't go on there now. I got fed up with the abuse.
Are you the same Dopey as on Landyzone?
We have had this discussion before about NRV's, I think.
Someone said a variation of the Dunlop EAS system was used on Routemaster buses, and due to their widespread and continued use, spare parts should be readily available. Then the idea died a death for some reason.
There was a guy off Landyzone called Datatek who did a write up on how to repair the EAS driver pack.
He also went on Rangerovers.net for a bit.
As I recall, I think it was a capacitor which caused the problem, but he gave precise details where to dig out the resin to get to it, so you don't have to dig out the whole lot.
Any further progress with this project?
I am 100% certain there is no thermostat on the auto gearbox cooler and 99% certain there is no thermostat on the engine oil cooler, if that helps.
I have just had a look in my shed and I have a spare diesel alternator as well.
Unknown condition. Not tested. Bought it a few years ago on Ebay as I remember when it was going cheap and nobody bid on it.
You are welcome to borrow it. I live near Chester.
I uploaded a copy of Microcat onto this forum a while ago. See under "Handy Downloads".
As Brian said, it needs to run under 32 bit XP and the best way is using VMWare under windows 10.
I am actually using Windows 10 64 bit. It is faster using a virtual machine than XP on an old pc.
As I remember the channel for the rubbing strip has pins that pop into holes in the door. These are secured on the inside with push on "spire nuts or washers"? I think they are called. I may be confusing it with another car, I have been working on a Volvo recently.
If all else fails use an industrial adhesive.
You mean the ones inside the door?
The road tax on my p38 is costing me £22 per month and I haven't used it now for a couple of months. I have other cars to use and the p38 is mainly kept just for towing.
I also need to do a few jobs on it once the weather gets better so it may be off road for a bit.
Tax discs have gone and I was thinking about SORN'ing it (if there is such a word). Anyone else doing it? I see a few of you have more than one p38.
It is all done on line now. It doesn't cost anything and I wondered if there is any limit to the number of times you can switch. Whole months I guess. It is not clear from the gov website. Wondering whether to drop the insurance down to TFT as well.
I changed the swan-neck for a 2" receiver like they use in the US. It is a genuine L/R part.
I have a removeable 50mm ball hitch that fits in the receiver for towing which is secured with a locking pin.
I also have a shackle to to fit in the receiver if ever I need to be pulled out of a ditch or mud hole or more likely pull someone else out.
Thanks Harv. I know you mean well.
I never go under the car without using axle stands if there is a wheel off, but I must admit I do go under the car when the suspension is on high.
I have confidence in the suspension and never had a problem. Maybe my confidence is misplaced though.
With all four wheels on it would drop onto the bump stops, maybe squash my fat belly first. I also never work on the air system without axle stands.
I have tried numerous different rustproofing methods on a variety of cars over the years including waxoil.
Dave's method now is:-
pressure wash the car underneath
leave it to dry out
lie underneath and wire brush/scrape the chassis and any panels ........ but only the places that are showing signs of rust or the paint is broken
pressure wash again underneath
leave it to dry out again
paint the affected areas with a phosphoric acid based rust proofer .... I currently use Kurust (made by hammerite).
reapply second coat of rustproofing as necessary (some rustproofers require washing again at this stage)
paint with black Hammerite paint .... though next time round I will probably use Rustoleum instead of Hammerite because it mixes with white spirit.
I have not done anything to the inside of the chassis, although I have on other cars. I injected Waxoil inside the chassis on an old RR classic using a lance. It was more trouble than it was worth and a lot of hassle. I am not a big fan of Waxoil. Neutralising the rust before painting is the secret.
It is a sping/summer job and should be done every year. It has kept the underneath in very good condition and the car is now 20 years old.
I have got Arnott Gen III's, so it goes up really high allowing me space to work underneath.
Lpgc, bought a scope off Alibaba, cost next to bugger all and plugs into usb on a pc. Never used it except for plugging it in to see if it works.
I also used to mess about with valve radios in my youth. Ex military receivers that ended up down the dump. Just one valve now goes for an arm and a leg.
Yeah, technology is moving on very fast. There was a big difference in price between AC clamp on meters and those that would do DC.
My clamp on meter was made in the USA. It has been very good. New ones now seem to be made in China at half the cost. Sign of the times maybe.
Clive, who are you calling big and clumsy? Yes you can do it cheaper, but it is just more convenient to have all the gear on hand. Keep the Avo 8, a collectors item. It is probably appreciating in price. Haven't seen one for years.