I am 99% certain that it is the same battery as the Lucas MF31 which is more readily available.
Made in South Korea. Looks the same with a Lucas badge on. Same spec anyway @ 1000 CCA.
I got a 3 yr warranty on mine.

Thanks,
So to clarify, you don't think the BF Goodrich 255/70 R16 will fit in the wheel well?
Aspect ratio is 70 compared with 65 for the AT2's I am current using. Only 5% more.
Tyre section and diameter are the same. I think there is a bit of space around the AT2 in the boot.

I have got a few decisions to make on tyres as well.
I have been running on General Grabber AT2's for quite a while and the fronts are wearing a bit unevenly and are near the limits.
I would like to stick with an off road tyre. The AT2's have been good but they don't make them any more.
One option is to fit AT3's on the front, with AT2's on the back. Not keen.
I like the BF Goodrich KO2's. I have got a set of old rims. Get them refurbished and fit BFG all round? Megabucks.
The tyres I have got on now are the original factory size 255/65 R16 and they fit in the spare wheel well.
BFG nearest seem to be 255/70 R16. Anyone running these?

Remember the 4.0 uses the HP22 box, while the 4.6 uses the HP24 box.

I would clean the threads up on the arms with a die nut first before you put the new nuts on.

I have got about 5 small generators dotted around the place. I never throw anything out as my missus will testify.
I have an unused Petter diesel engine dating from 1960's that I need to get going, a French Bernard engine from 1950's, a couple of far east suitcase type generators and a small Honda clone made in China .... that is until Honda stopped them.
I also have a Briggs and Stratton 2 stroke lawnmower engine lying under a bench in one of my sheds, which you are welcome to have. I am not paying postage. Ha Ha. The lawnmower rusted away but the engine is OK. It runs horizontal though.
I have made the small Honda clone ultra quiet for use on camp sites. Enclosed it in an accoustic enclosure with a cooling fan and I run the exhaust into a bucket of water.

I have been watching this with very keen interest as well. I looked at it a few years ago but thought better of it.
I have had a checkered history with engine swaps over the years. Norton with a Vincent engine, Ford Pop with a GT Cortina engine, Ford Escort Mexico with a 2L engine, Mini Cooper with a full race engine, then Range Rover Classic with a 3.8L Perkins diesel. It has put me off a bit. Nothing fits with most swaps.

A few comments off the top of my head:

The M57 engine is based on the older M51 engine, that we know. I also know the M57 will bolt straight up to a 4HP24 gearbox using the p38 diesel bellhousing. Not sure then which starter motor and flywheel are used, M51 or M57? or are they the same?

The problem with this is that only the diesel torque converter will fit. The petrol TC's are too big.

An option is to fit an uprated p38 diesel torque converter. I had one fitted by Ashcrofts to my car. Not cheap though.

I have chipped my M51 diesel and fitted a larger intercooler. Power has gone up from 135bhp to about 190bhp. I have also got the 4HP24 box fitted. It copes OK but would the TC cope with 300 bhp? I suspect not.

Question .... will the M57 TC fit into the p38 M51 bellhousing? I don't know.

I also had a look at the Compushift gearbox controller when I was at Ashcrofts a few years ago. A member on the .net site had one fitted to his p38 which had a 2.8L South American made diesel engine. Gear changes were very harsh.
A diesel engine with its long stroke and high compression ratio puts out a lot more torque and the fuel mapping has a Torque Limiter map specifically to cut the power during a gear change. The engine ECU needs to speak to the gearbox ECU in order to do this. If it doesn't it will result in harsh changes and even see off the gearbox.

I have also seen a p38 TDV6 conversion locally. Mechanic used a manual box though. Said he would never do another one.
I much prefer the straight six M57 engine.

Here is the link that was posted on RR.net:-

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Byt3ogVBq68RdFdyX1VQMS1iN00

The main pages (or top pages) at RR.net were a treasure trove of information, built up over many years by many contributors.

When the new forum owners took over, the top pages were locked and as a consequence could not be updated. I know that Toad, no matter what you think of him, rewrote a lot of the sections but the owners (or IT guys) in Canada in their arrogance refused to alter them.

Just recently with the new look website, the top pages have disappeared altogether. All the forum users have a stake in this, they are not just the property of VerticalScope.

However a link has just appeared on the site. Apparently a guy has saved all the pages to his Google drive.
I have downloaded as much as I can. I can open documents OK but there are still some links to an external website. It needs someone with better IT skills to see if they can be kept as one standalone document.

We should have them available on here.

I made up a set of blocks using nylon 66. It is very easy to turn and plenty strong enough.
I have also turned a set in hardwood. I think an old piece of mahogany, full of wood worm anyway.

We need to get Tom Custy to join this forum, me thinks.

I decided to give the diff an oil change and a lot of metal bits came out. I also cleaned up the magnetic sump plug which was all furry with metal bits. These must have been left over from the original diff failure and not cleaned out by the garage.
I used used EP 80 oil as it was all I had. The book says a fully sythetic Texaco 75W 90R. What do other people use?
I have only ever used an EP 80 or 90. EP 90 is a bit thick imho.

I have just made a post under general chatter asking if it is a new rule change.
Have to wait and see if I get a reply.

I have just tried logging out and logging back in at RR.net. I still get the same message.
Kapila has pm'd me (at RR.net) and he says he is locked out as well. At least the pm's are getting through without being held.

romanrob: no warning whatsoever. Driving and towing for a month or two with no indication then suddenly .... bang, horrible noises.
What grade Loctites do you use and what for exactly?

I was actually trying to help Kapila, a fellow member, who is also on here as a matter of fact. There was nothing contentious about the post.

Just posted a comment on RR.net and this is the message that came up:-

"Thank you for posting! Your post will not be visible until a moderator has approved it for posting."

What gives?

I am partly embarrassed and partly relieved at the moment.

Just got the car back from the garage ..... nothing wrong with the diff !!!
The horrible noises from underneath were caused by the two retaining bolts coming out of the front drivers side brake caliper! Both bolts had fallen out and the caliper had rotated on the axle and was rubbing against the wheel rim !
I automatically assumed it was the rear diff. The metallic bits in the oil that I saw must have been shit left in the axle case from the original job.

How did the caliper bolts come out? Last time they were off was when I rebuilt the front end a couple of months ago. I have been driving it round since and towing the caravan. I have been asking myself did I put them in finger tight and forget to torque them up?
Or assuming that they were bolted up tight and worked loose, maybe I need to start using Loctite on the threads ?
Anyone heard of this problem before?

Just to clarify, distilled water by itself is corrosive on some metal parts such as aluminium cylinder heads and cast iron blocks, particularly if oxygen (air) is present. It is pH neutral but will still react with some metals. Antifreeze will contain corrosion inhibitors to prevent this happening.

I used to work in the chemical industry and steam condensate, which is essentially distilled water, is very corrosive to mild steel pipework.

I have had the seat bases apart to repair the seat heaters a few months back. I also put extra foam in the side sections of the seat bases and swapped driver/passenger seats over. Did some stitching repairs to the base. Never been any need to do anything to the uprights.