Hi Sloth, thanks for the info.

My idea to have the daytime running lights on to power the panel was not very satisfactory. It only came on with dipped headlights and the panel lights were dim anyway.

I have just gone back and taken the HEVAC apart for about the 10th time. There are two ignition feeds coming in on the white plug, position I and position II.
Pin 3 is ignition position II, so I have just soldered a wire from underneath the board where pin 3 comes through and taken that to the panel and hey presto it works!

Richard, I bought this DAB aerial: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07HQSFV6S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It is a stick on glass type same as the original. I have got the same Kenwood radio as you after you recommended it last year. And yes, it was turned on in the initial settings. The new one works, the old one doesn't, so something has gone wrong with it.

Marty, there must be a fault on the HEVAC board. I do not see +12v to the display bulb. The -ve side seems ok.
As a bodge, I have run a +12v lead from the other bulbs and it works. The only problem is the HEVAC panel only lights up with the lights on.
I couldn't find an ignition live feed point inside the HEVAC.
I am going to turn on the daytime running lights in the BECM (just the sidelights) as a way to get round it. Longer term get a spare JFC102550. I have two older AWR5051 HEVAC units as spares which could be fitted at a pinch with the aircon clutch relay mod.

Thanks for everyone's help. I am moving on to the next job.

I already have a set of bulbs on the way thanks.
I just tested it on the bench again. I put +12v on pin 6 on the white plug and pin 4 as the earth. All the bulbs light up except the display bulb.
The tracks for the bulb are also not showing any voltage.

Radio fixed with a replacement DAB aerial, so that is one positive today.

Slowly working my way through a few electrical problems on the car. Blown fuses .... now fixed and found to be the door mirror wiring.

Next is Hevac LCD panel which is dead and then my DAB aerial showing a fault on my (Kenwood) radio.

The Hevac unit: Checked the bulbs. Centre one had blown so fitted another one. Put 12v on one of the other bulb holders and they all light up except the middle one behind the panel. Had a horrible thought later about polarity so I hope I haven't damaged anything.

Decided to do the mod to the panel connector while I was at it. Marty, who is away at the moment, kindly posted one on the way to the airport. Thanks Marty. I followed instructions and took it all apart on the bench, cleaned everything and put it back together. Back in the car, I used Faultmate to test the unit. Everthing checks out, controls, switches etc. Everthing works, however the display panel still won't light up. I shone a torch through the bulb holder and the panel is working. The display is really clear and much better than it was. No loss of pixels.

Problem is the bulb, which I tested as ok, does not light up when in the holder. Any ideas where to look? I have got a box of new bulbs on the way.
I tested the bulb holder contacts in the car to see if there was power on it and there doesn't appear to be. Could this be a component fault?
If I can't solve it I was thinking of soldering a couple of thin wires to another bulb holder and fitting an LED behind it.

Thanks, but I have now repaired the wiring. I cut out sections of the two damaged wires, soldered in new sections and protected it using heat shrink tubing. I have moved on to my Hevac display now.

It started off when I bought the Rovair switch box from a seller in the states over 10 years ago.

It came as kit of parts that you build yourself. Some soldering is required from memory. It is just switches in a box with an EAS connector on one edge. The idea is that you unplug the ECU under the seat and plug in the box. It needs a jumper on the EAS relay as well.

It has proven to be a very useful piece of kit. It allows manual control of individual air bags and valve block. I carry it in my emergency kit box.

I took it a stage further. I bought a section of harness that goes from the ECU to the valve block so I can now use it on the bench to test valveblocks off the car. I fit a pressure gauge into each port and it is really easy to check if any solenoids are leaking. It is an absolute pain trying to sort out a problem with the valveblock on the car, especially if it is one of the solenoids underneath.

I have also connected a p38 air tank and compressor connector to it (switched via an old starter motor solenoid), so I can test air compressors easily.

It was actually made in Australia and I contacted the guy last year and he said he had not made any for over 10 years. No demand he said.

It would be a nice project for someone else to take over. I have a list of parts and a circuit diagram somewhere. It used radio shack parts which are the same as used to be sold at Maplin before they went bust. Only difficult part is sourcing the edge connector and getting the case molded and then printed.
I have got a 3d printer that could be used to print the case but if a suitable project box could be found that would only leave the EAS edge connector to source.

Just found this. The wires have been trapped by the metal body of the mirror.

I can't remember ever having taken the mirror off myself. I have replaced the glass but that is about it.

I had the door and mirror resprayed by a crap body shop about 8 or 9 years ago when it was damaged when parked outside my house.
They must have been clumsy bolting it back on.

It is the driver's side door mirror ! I unplugged it and the fuse doesn't blow when the engine is running. The car doesn't have memory seats.

I plugged the mirror back in to confirm it was the problem, fully expecting the fuse to blow again (I have had a box of 100 fuses delivered by Amazon) and there was a puff of smoke from the connector when I tried operating the mirror! I stopped at that point.

Clearly a short on one of the motors in the mirror I think. Next job is to swap it for a spare mirror I have got. It is 6 pin.

Thanks.

Just come back in. I think I have found something, but haven't pin pointed the problem exactly as yet.

New fuse fitted, turn on ignition, tried moving the mirrors: passenger side ok, but when I try moving the drivers side, the fuse blows.
Door winders are ok.

Fuse 9 was pulling 0.3A with ignition on. Then goes off scale and blows 20A fuse in my fuse tester when the mirror is moved.

Door outstation? door wiring or connector? mirror switch? Will check further tomorrow.
How can starting the engine blow the fuse?

Fuse 9 under the seat is 20A and controls "Front audio system amplifiers, front doors" according to the handbook.

It first blew a couple of weeks back. The door winders and fobs suddenly stopped working. I replaced it and it was OK for about a week. Now it repeatedly blows again and I have been unable to trace what is causing it. I fit a new fuse, turn the ignition on, and the window winders, locks and radio all work again. As soon as I start the engine, it blows. Is there anything else that runs through fuse 9?

My HEVAC central LCD panel is also currently off and I don't know if this is related. The switches light up ok but no display. I swapped the panel for another spare (but an early one) and it doesn't light up either. I swapped them back and tried unplugging relays under the bonnet related to HEVAC .... heater blowers, aircon clutch etc. Still blows.

Disconnected radio leads. Still blows. I have also added a few things to the wiring over the years ... a switch for the aircon fans (wired through a relay anyway) and a USB connection/Hella charging panel in the back. Disconnected all the leads. Still blows. Running low on 20A fuses, I fitted a 30A fuse. Still blows. Plugged in a diagnostic current measuring device that you plug into a fuse socket and it went off scale and blew the fuse in the device.

Turning the ignition on, everything seems fine. No short circuits. No blown fuses. Start the engine (diesel) and it blows with a pop. Any ideas?

I bought mine from Original LandyAir as well. I have had my p38 now for 17 years now and I rebuilt my valve block 6 or 7 years ago and it has been OK since. Also several spare blocks I have got. They were originally trading as Symlise on Ebay. I have used their compressor seals as well.
I would not go to anyone else, as I know they work.

Also I have got a bench tester for valve blocks if anyone is near my neck of the woods (mid way between Chester and Northwich).
It consists of a section of wiring harness and a manual control box for operating the solenoids. I stick a pressure gauge in each port. It is easy to see if a valve is leaking.

Making progress here. I have just uploaded another 63 items.

Have now uploaded Microcat 2002 plus the crack. Unfortunately the CD with Microcat 2009 is showing errors when I tried to do an iso.

I had to replace one of my rear arms a few years ago when I was a bit heavy handed with the level sensor and tore the rubber mount off !!!

I replaced the whole arm with a s/h one and I don't remember any difficulty with the bolts.

So on one arm the bushes are 19 years old and unknown age on the other.

I have kept the old damaged arm so I will have a look at it.

Thanks for the description romanbob. I am also using a press so I think I will look round for a piece of pipe to weld onto the bearing.
Problem is I have not long done mine so won't need it for a few years unless I get another p38.

As a matter if interest has anyone done the rears? I haven't even looked at how to do them. I only know the trailing arms are composite.

Gordon, I didn't get your email.

Anyway, I have made a start. I just uploaded about 350Mb onto the Microsoft onedrive link that RutlandRover posted.
I will do an iso of Microcat 2002 and 2009 and upload that next. Do you just want p38 stuff? I have got Defender and Disco technical docs as well.

I thought the plan was to have it on your server rather than in the cloud somewhere.

Another thing to consider ... should downloads be restricted to members of the forum only? so we know who they are, rather than guests or the general public who don't log in? I personally think it should be restricted.

Gordonjcp, I did not get the courtesy of a reply. Are you still alive or dead? or on vacation on a far away island without the internet?
I said I am willing to help and upload stuff I have got.
Or do I assume this topic is now dead and we won't be having a download section?

I have just bought a 30306 taper bearing cup/ race on Ebay. Thanks for the tip romanbob.
Did you weld a piece of pipe on it to act as a lead-in? or just use it as is?

Email attachments have a size limit on them depending upon which ISP you are with. I am with BT and it is 25Mb.

What was finally decided about having a download section?
I can download Rave from the site but that is about it. How do I upload stuff?