Fair point Morat. They were probably getting on for 100k at the time.
I ran with them as standard for a bit, then I bought a pair of new front Boges, so I had fronts all round to allow the extra lift on the back.
I remember putting the new ones on the front and the old front ones on the rear. I ran like that for a year or two, so they were well used on the back.
Front Boges on the back actually only allowed me to have an extra 1.5" of lift because at 2" extra it became like a bouncy castle off road. The shocks were obviously out of their range, so I had to lower it a bit.
I finally bit the bullet and fitted the Terrafirma +2" uprated shocks. They are a bit hard on the road but great for towing and off road.
Antifreeze has corrosion inhibitors in it as part of the formulation, so it should keep the calcium in solution. Demineralised (or demin) water in combination with antifreeze may be the better way to go in hard water areas.
Also never use distilled water by itself in an engine. People have wrecked classic car engines thinking they are doing the right thing. It is very corrosive.
One of the Disco models ... is it the Disco 2? excuse my ignorance, has coils at the front and air springs at the back does it not?
I know that this particular combination has a high incidence for caravans turning over according to the caravan club. Inherently unstable imho.
The only towing I do recently is with my caravan which is quite heavy at around 2 tonnes laden (correction ... I am actually doing zero towing right now as the rear diff has gone).
I have Arnott Gen III air bags fitted and at std height the spring rate is a bit harder than Dunlops. However the stabilty when towing was improved markedly when I swapped the std Boge dampers for Terrafirma dampers (the stiffer off road +2" version). I didn't buy them for that but the difference was huge. Far less bouncing around and a lot more controlled.
Thanks for your support guys. The garage is trailering it back to their place next Monday.
Agreed with them to pour the old contaminated oil back in the diff. so they can show it to their diff supplier.
For information, it is a Bosch VP37 fuel injection pump and it is a BMW M51 engine.
Variations of the pump have been used on many engines in both 6 cylinder and 4 cylinder configurations, but it is exactly the same pump as used in BMW E34 and 525 E39 models and also old Omega and Vauxhall diesels from the late '90's.The only thing different is the electronic top half in the p38 version so it can speak to the BECM. It speaks a non standard code compared to other makes. It is possible to use an old BMW pump for example and just swap the tops over.
Fitting and timing the FIP needs special tools but it would be a relatively easy job for an experienced mechanic who has done it before. Problem is finding an "old school" guy who knows what he is doing.
Marty, I have got a spare used PS pump here that I can post on to you to help get you going again.
I bought it on Ebay a few years ago. It is off a diesel but I think they are all the same. Maybe the bracket is different, diesel vs petrol.
I think it is ok.
Either let me have it back when you are done or send me another one (not the one that blew up! Ha Ha).
Out driving the car yesterday and there was a sudden metallic crunch from underneath followed by a grinding sound.
Eventually got the car home and I have just crawled underneath this morning and drained the rear diff oil into a jug.
Silvery colour and metallic fur on the magnetic drain plug !
Had new recon diff fitted in March (but only 2 pin which I didn't ask for) . It has failed after 3 months.
Has 12 months warranty so should be covered.
Mazz,
A refurbished unit is going to be at least £1450 + labour.
I talked it through with Hoppy. So we can eliminate things, can you ask the garage to put it back as it was and first try running it with the MAF unplugged.
Good to hear you are OK Marty. Everthing else can be fixed. An example of Kiwi resilience.
As a matter of interest, have you fitted an Audi heater matrix to your car?
Regarding breakdown, I have been with both the AA and RAC over the years and similarly there has been a long wait when I have needed them.
I have also been with Green Flag via the Caravan Club.
I insure my car through Adrian Flux and they have breakdown insurance as an add-on:
Been very good so far but must admit only used once in a blue moon. Broke down north of Montpellier in the South of France a few years ago and they called a local garage who towed the caravan to the campsite and took the car to a main dealer in Montpellier. They probably clocked up 200 miles.
Radiator blew in Sedberg again towing caravan up a steep hill and they had a big flatbed truck there within 20 mins. They don't have a fleet of their own. Just call pre arranged local garages.
Mazz,
I agree with the guys about not authorising any further work with the garage until we take stock of the situation. A new fuel injection pump is mega bucks. You are talking about £1450 or more. The electronics in the top bit are also unique to the p38 so it can talk to the BECM. The same pump off a BMW or Opel or Vauxhall wont work unless the head of the pump is changed to the p38 version.
My problem is, although I have had my diesel for 17 years, I have never had my FIP off or even replaced the seals. There has been no need as I have never had a leak. I am fairly familiar with how the FIP works, in fact I have two old ones in my garage but only suitable for rebuilding.
Lets just back off a bit. Before we start accusing the garage of incompetance and/or lying. They probably are, but first we need to confirm that the top of the FIP needs to come off to replace the seals. I am 99% certain it does and I also know that the FIP needs to be "on the cam" before removing the top. If it is not done right, I believe the FIP has to come off and then needs setting up on the bench if that is not done.
We need to find someone who has actually done it before but there are only a couple of diesel owners on here.
I know that Hoppy on here has replaced his seals. He is away from home at the moment working. I will contact him and get back to you.
The part number quoted is the complete top half of the pump. They will have had this off to repair the seals. It is the part that you slide backwards and forwards to alter the pump settings. I did a search online and I only found this French one:
http://www.reparationinjecteur.co.uk/actuateur-vp36-bosch-2467135197-c2x16434768 It works out at £500!
It is quite a tricky procedure changing the seals and it is easy to do it wrong and mess things up.
Was the car running ok before, except for the leaks?
As I understand it, she has had the in tank pump replaced satisfactorily. Even if the pump is duff, it should run ok if the tank is more than half full. The FIP will pull it though. The symptoms are the same as any fuel starvation to an engine. Spluttering and eventual cut out. Also hard to start when the tank was low, which was my first indication of a problem with mine.
I am also one of the bodgers. It is a design fault that an inspection hatch was not included (as it was for other L/R models) ... also a level sensor on the coolant expansion tank. I keep meaning to fabricate a proper surround with a bolted down cover. Mine is just taped up and I agree is a bodge at the moment. Dropping the tank is easy if you have it on a car lift.
Hi Mazz,
I am Dave. We spoke on the phone for over half an hour last night after Marty asked me to contact you. Glad you joined the forum.
Marty seems to think I am a diesel expert. Ha Ha.
I am actually a retired 72 year old Chemical Engineer. I have done a few things in my life. spent a lifetime in chemicals and mining both here and abroad. I joined REME (TA) as a vehicle mechanic in my 20's, but I would not describe myself as a diesel or p38 expert, but I have the ability to approach problems logically I think, so if I have come across a problem before I can advise.
This forum has a lot of clever buggers (technical expression) on here.
From what you said last night, the garage has been repairing leaks on the FIP.
This will involve replacing the seals between the top part and main body of the pump. The job can easily go wrong if they don't know what they are doing. I would guess your problem is due to the top/middle cover being put back incorrectly because they are not familiar with the engine.
The holes are slotted, allowing it to move forward and backwards, altering the settings for the FIP.
It could be something else but I think it more likely to be a problem with your FIP. The timing must be ok as the car starts instantly. so I would guess it is just the settings for the top/middle cover of the FIP.
If you tell the mechanics to set it in the middle of the travel, and see if there is any improvement. It can be done accurately with a Nanocom but I personnally haven't done it.
Hoppy,
The book symbol returns as soon as I start the car. It seems to clear when I reset the ignition. Ha Ha.
Aircon is next job to do. I need to fix the aircon compressor clutch first. I need to make up a plug and lead to test it.
Front of the car needs to dismantled though. Grill, slam plate, radiator, intercooler, fan and surround. Then I can get at it. 1hour tops.
Then test for leaks and finally get it gassed.
I will give you a couple of hours Hoppy. An extra pair of hands always helps.
Give me a few dates to put in my diary. Not a full day mate, I am supposed to be retired!
dave
A smart charger is best. It splits the charging into stages, usually 4 stages but sometimes more and it adjusts itself accordingly.
The last stage puts the voltage up by about 1 volt ( to around 14.5v from memory) to squeeze the last bit in to give it 100% charge.
You can leave them connected continuously without damaging the battery. It can also often resurrect a duff battery.
Ctek are good, I have a small 3 amp one, but they are overpriced. I bought a couple of smart chargers from Lidl I think it was (maybe it was Alde) for about £12. Been very good. I use one permanently on the caravan in the drive.
A tip I learned on one of the forums was to charge the car through the white 12S towing plug. I made up a special plug for this purpose and I leave the charger, which is fairly waterproof, under the car. Handy if you have a flat battery and can't get in the boot.
Actually, I have got a brand new unused p38 transfer box under my workbench in the garage (and no you can't have it).
I bought it on Ebay a couple of years ago and it is one of those jobs I have been meaning to get round to.
I have already fitted a new HP24 box so this will compliment it.
The only problem is the transfer box is for a manual gearbox. However, I have an auto epicyclic gear set to change it over. I also need to get a spare handbrake drum assembly so I can build it up completely before finding a garage to fit it.
Just sprayed my door mirrors and need to fix my sub woofer next. Then maybe tackle the transfer box.
Thats interesting, Marty.
I compared the boards visually and the face panels as you call them do look identical.
If the difference is just software, it is a pity we can't just flash new firmware. Ha Ha.
I need to get a spare JFC102550. Maybe a cheap one on Ebay with a faulty display and swap boards.
Anyway, it is working and all back together.
No. I didn't have to log on.