Gilbertd said:

Is that the single file one that popped up on RR.net? So it's just one huge pdf but is created from the US version that covers all models.

No, it consists of 9 separate files:

1 Workshop Manuals
2 Overhaul Manuals
3 Electrical Troubleshooting Manuals
4 Owner's Handbooks
5 In-Car Entertainment
6 PDI and Maintenance
7 NAVTECH
8 Technical Brochure
9 Accessory Fitting Instructions

Just checked my hard drive and I have 5.4Gb of Landrover stuff, mostly p38. Most is docs but some is useful pics I have accumulated.

I have got Rave in adobe pdf format as well.

I have used electrolysis to reverse rusting on parts. It is a lot easier. Just use an old battery charger and washing soda crystals.

I have got Microcat 2002 and also Microcat 2009.
2002 is the one I use as I can find my way around it. I have set up a virtual 32 bit XP machine on my 64 bit W10 pc to run it.
I haven't tried to run it with 32 bit W10. I assumed it wouldn't run.

Gordon, do you want copies uploading ? If so how?

My god that looks nice Robbo1. Is that taken when it was new? Can't believe that is a 17 year old car.

I will start by doing an iso of my Microcat CD. How do I upload it?

Gordon, OK, if you are happy with that I will have a sort out. I have got loads of stuff I have downloaded from the internet over the years.
Just to clarify ........ is it going to be uploaded onto this server? The stuff I have is resting on my pc hard drive. I can't post links as such and I don't want to use my Google drive.
It will use up space on your server but as it is for reference purposes it would be a welcome addition I think. Do you have space?
It will need organising into folders and possible editing by yourself. I have a lot of Landrover stuff which is not p38. I also have Microcat and the crack.

I have got a stack of stuff if you are going to make a reference library. What about copyright?

It is off an E36 or M3 model. bmw expansion tank part no. 17111712641

He are a few examples off Ebay:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/dsc/i.html?LH_TitleDesc=1&_nkw=bmw+expansion+tank+e36+17111712641

New, they are a bit pricey, like all BMW parts but they do come up cheaper from time to time on Ebay.

On a RHD car you will need to modify the mounting bracket to move it an inch to the left to clear the brake modulator. The hose connection comes straight out so you have to inventive with silicone tubing and a coupler. The level sensor works back to front as well. It is nc and goes open circuit as the coolant level drops, so I reversed the action through a relay.

I have since moved the relay. I didn't like where it was.

It is only made of plastic with a lightweight aluminium pole but it does the job.
Not all sellers include a case but this one did:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TrackAce-Laser-Toe-Gauge-Best-Price-On-Ebay-With-Blow-Moulded-Case-RD2201BM/231601872125?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
It will probably sit in the garage unused for the next 5 years.

I replaced my expansion tank with a BMW one that has a level switch in it. I wired it up to a light behind the dash.

I have not long bought a DIY wheel alignment tool. It is called a Trackace and works with a laser beam:
http://www.trackace.co.uk/
I can recommend it. Bit fiddly to set up the first time round, but when I got the hang of how it works it is now easy for me to check the alignment.
I wanted to measure the toe out after I had replaced the bushes and ball joints on the front.
The reading I got was reproduceable which proves it is accurate.
I was just testing the tool out the first time and and I got 30' or 0.5 deg toe out. Then after using the car a few days, when I was ready to crawl underneath on the drive, I measured it again with the wheels in different places and got the same reading. I adjusted it back to within spec , 5'-15' toe out. The tool needs about 1 metre of space on the drivers side to operate.
FYI one full turn on the track rod adjuster is 0.5 deg or 30'.

I paid about £72 for it and figured it would pay for itself after 2 uses.

I am a bit late to the party but I bought a Clarke jump start a couple of years ago when It was on offer from Machine Mart. It has an impressive spec (on paper).

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/jump-start-4000/

Bearing in mind I have the diesel, which is a whole new ball game as regards starting, It said 1500 amps and the battery on the car is about 1000 CCA, so I thought it would be man enough. However it would hardly turn over the car even after fully charging the jump starter.
I have a professional battery tester and it only gave 180 Amps. The shop swapped it for another but it was no better. I got a refund.
I can't see how it could ever be rated at 1500 amps.

I turned a plug out of hardwood to fit in the hub and another to fit in the end of the axle. The one in the hub has a centre hole to take a laser pointer that shines on the axle plug. It has a cross hair scale on it. The theory was to adjust the collet until the red dot was in the centre.
Not entirely satisfactory, as when the plug is rotated the laser dot moves position. It should be concentric irrespective of how you rotate it.
Not entirely acurate, maybe a future mkII version might work.
Why wood? I have a wood lathe and it is dead easy to turn it. I also have a small Clarke model making lathe but I had no suitable aluminium.
I fitted a new collet when I did mine. For you to be in the right ball park, I found it needs to be screwed right in with only two threads showing.
Another thing I have heard is that the design of the seal changed from an early version. There were too many problems with leaks. The design of the inner lip was altered to one which is more accomodating to being slightly off centre.

Thanks for the very practical tips, Richard. You are preaching to the converted about suspension bushes. I would always stick with OEM. I had bad experiences with a classic rangerover I once had and also souped up Ford escorts many years ago.
I clamped the radius arm in a Black & Decker workmate and burnt the old OEM bushes out with a propane torch in the back garden. I used an old wood chisel and I caught the blobs of burning rubber in a tray underneath. This just left the plastic outer to chisel out. The inside hole in the radius arm was bright metal.

Well done. So it was the MAF all along. Who would have thought it. I know it affects the gearchange, but for it to be so pronounced is a surprise.
I know that when you unplug the MAF, it resorts to default settings in the fuel map. I should have suggested that.

It takes the pressure off trying to find a HP24 gearbox. As you said it is best to change it in the long term particularly if you chip it.
Leave a search running on Ebay to see if one comes up locally. You do see some going for as little as £100 if nobody bids on it.

Thanks. I put a thin smear of red hermatite on the faces and bolted it up.
It may be to prevent water ingress when wading or if the hub is sat in water for a length of time. The only other route for water to get in is via the hub splines. The ABS sensor is fully sealed. Maybe the splines should be coated in silicone grease before assembly? I don't think the wheel bearings are fully water proof. There was evidence of rust inside the carrier housing.

Hi Hoppy,

I guess "shagged" is a technical expression? Yes, use your old diesel bellhousing and TC. The V8 bellhousing is wider and has different bolt hole spacings. The 4.6 petrol TC won't fit either. It is bigger and won't physically fit inside the diesel bellhousing, so you don't have much choice.
I got my uprated diesel TC from Ashcrofts. They are expensive to buy but I did a deal with them and part exed a brand new 4.6 TC. New, I think they would be around £1000. I don't think Ashcrofts make them. I think they may be based on another L/R model but don't know for sure.
Whether it is worth the money? Not sure. It does slip less and the lockup in top occurs at 46-48mph whereas before it was maybe 52-54mph. I have chipped my diesel and Ashcrofts recommended it , so it was part of a package deal.
Good luck with the new box. Labour to change a box? Two guys x 2 hrs. 4 man hrs total?

While trying to find the source of a bad rumble, I recently replaced my front wheel bearings. I could swear the rumble was coming from the front and only later discovered it was the rear diff ! Not wishing to lie on my back in the drive to do the job, I got an indy to fit a new diff.
The car is running OK now but I thought I would check out the rear hubs and brakes which was not part of the indy's job.
I am not entirely happy with what they have done. They fitted a refurbished 2 pin diff without asking me and managed to round some of the bolts holding the hub carrier on.
However, one thing I noticed is that they have used sealant on the joint between the hub carrier and the rear axle. They are machined faces with 6 bolts.
I can't see the point of using sealant as the oil seal keeps the oil in the axle. There is no mention of using sealant in Rave.