I had a classic years ago. It was a 1982 two door and fitted with a 4 cylinder Perkins diesel engine. The big problem again was rust.
I did however learn to MIG weld on that car. About the only good thing that came from it. I started on the floor panels and then the door pillars.
I wouldn't have another one. My P38 is 19 years old now and pretty rust free underneath.
If you are going to change your gearbox, change it for the HP24 out of the 4.6. It has stronger internals, particularly if you have chipped the engine. Use your old diesel bellhousing and torque converter. You need to get the later HP24 box marked 065, which is a direct swap. I can advise on the details as I have done it.
Doing it via Ashcrofts (as I did) is expensive. The cost does not include fitting. They farm it out to other garages they use.
They do a very good job but knowing what I know now I think I would buy a S/H box and get a local indy to fit it.
You see plenty of gearboxes on Ebay or contact Emmotts of Colne, not too far.
There are three variations of auto box used in the P38. The HP22 used in the diesel and the 4.0, and two versions of the HP24, early and late, used in the 4.6.
The early version of HP24 is 15mm longer but the later one is exactly the same overall. The bellhousings and TC's are different between the diesel and 4.0/4.6.
The early HP24 box can be made to fit by fitting a later tailend housing according to Ashcrofts . Or maybe just redrill the gearbox cross member? Don't know as I haven't done it.
Other things to consider: Ashcrofts can fit beefier HP24 internals in a HP22 box as an alternative. Also you can get an uprated TC for the diesel. I have fitted one.
It could be the clutch plates are disintegrating. However the gearbox valve box could be also gummed up. It takes ATF Dextron 2/3.
Gear change is also affected by readings from the various sensors around the engine.
Dave Ashcroft also told me to clean the MAF first if there was a gear change issue, don't know why, but he is the main man.
Further thoughts. The injectors at the back of the engine are a bit of a stretch to get to even for me. I have to stand on something and lean over and it does my back in.
Suggest she does just the one that is leaking instead of doing all of them. You finish the job when the car is back at base.
The leak off hose is 3.2mm diameter. You can get it at any motor factors. Just cut the old hose off with a stanley knife and push the new on leaving a small loop between each injector. Some kits come with a bung for the end, some don't.
Tell her to be careful near no.4 injector, the one with the electrical connection. It is bloody expensive.
No need to bleed the system.
I might also add that silicone tubing doesn't work for very long for this application. Use the proper hose.
If you detach the roll bar links, axle articulation is incredible when driving off road.
I bought some stainless steel rose joints and other bits, with the intention of making the links easily detachable by just removing a couple of pins.
Someone on RR.net said they also did it with rose joints and the noise and vibration was awful so I put it on hold.
I did see a system that used rubber bushes and was detachable.
I don't fancy fibreglassing either. I remember making parts in fibre glass for a Vincent powered Norton motorbike when I was younger.
I think the best way to make it would be metal spinning. I have never tried it, but I have a big wood lathe I could use.
Spin an aluminium disc clamped to a suitable wooden former and form the curved outer edge first. Then cut the center out with a band saw.
Beef it up to say 2mm thickness and it wouldn't need any strengthening dimples or a rolled edge on the inside. Use a piece of aluminium flatbar bonded or welded in place.
A 3d printer would be the answer but it would need to be a big one. I actually have one that I built myself, but the bed is only 200x200mm.
ABS would be the ideal material.
Got the new CV joint and fitted it to my spare half shaft. It is now on the car. Vibration I have been chasing is still there though.
It appeared to be coming from the LHS of the car but I have now traced it down to the rear diff.
Happy days.
Why are the rear mud shields FTC3546, so expensive? Britpart from £72 each and OEM £100 each or even more!
They are just made out of pressed steel with a stiffener bar across.
Anyone made their own?
No Problem. The suggestion to help with my CV joints was done tongue in cheek.
Firing on 7 cylinders? I have got a Faultmate so can't help with the Nanocom, sorry. It is able to do all models though.
I live near Chester if you get stuck. You can help me with my CV joints. Ha Ha.
I am not that familiar with the petrol V8 as I have the diesel, but talking about engines generally it does sound to me like tappets or specifically just one tappet.
The sound also seems to disappear or quieten as you revved it or put it under load. Is that right?
Talking generally the sound could be piston slap, a little end bush or tappet. imho.
Piston slap? caused by worn bores after very high mileage. Unlikely, exhaust would be smoking, and engine a lot more rattley.
Little end gone? Unlikely. Not heard of a previous problem with these engines.
Hydraulic tappet? Most likely due to oil pressure when hot as Richard says.
I would give it an oil and filter change anyway as it is a new car. Maybe it has previously been filled with modern synthetic oil? This type of oil is thinner. Maybe the tappets don't pump up as well. Suggest you switch to a thicker conventional oil and measure oil pressure before and after.
I am in the process of replacing a CV joint and I am struggling to get the thing apart (again). I need alternative suggestions on methods you have used.
I have done near side no problem and I am now on with the off side (after replacing the wheel bearings and top and bottom bushes).
I removed the half shaft and held it up in my hand and whacked CV joint with a heavy hammer. It fell apart no problem.
Fitted a new circlip to the shaft and, using the cable tie method to keep the circlip in place, tapped the new CV joint on. No problem, so far so good.
Replaced axle oil seal and fitted half shaft back. Went back to workshop and realised I had left the spacer off the shaft, bugger.
Now I can't get the new CV joint apart again. I tried whacking it with a brass hammer. I also have a home made puller which consists of a length of 5" diam pipe with an end plate. I clamped the shaft in a vice, put the pipe over the joint with the stub axle through the plate then tighten the nut. I am tightening it with a breaker bar and the shaft is pulling through the vice jaws. It is a considerable force. Any tips or suggestions? I have a spare half shaft and a new CV joint is on order just in case.
Yes, I found that out only relatively recently Richard.
If you remember I sent you a pm to join this site after that Blackpool twit deleted all your posts about UJ's.
Just been on the darkside and RRTH has had a flee in his ear from AureliaZ3 a new owner, about lack of help. He praised RichardG.
No one steals a p38. Unless you leave the keys in the ignition and a note on the windscreen saying "please take".
You are going to have to be the pioneer. I think they are a H3 size, you need to check.
The LED 100w H3's are dirt cheap by the looks of it:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/CREE-LED-White-Fog-Tail-DRL-Head-Car-Light-Lamp-Bulb-2pcs-Super-Bright-H3-100w/2269779016?iid=132134445209&chn=ps
I had 100 watt bulbs in my Safari 5000 lights when they were fitted to my car. However they are currently off with the bullbar.
I wired them direct from the battery through a relay since they were pulling over 8 amps each. You could fry an egg on each.
They were great when new but I then had bad problems with fogging of the lenses.
I have seen some youtube videos on removing fogging so might get round to putting them back on.
Modern LEDs would be a better way to go. There is no need for them to dip so should be straight forward.
You won't go far wrong with those Morat.
I have had my current p38, and previously an old classic, twist and come off the axle stands. It is due to the way the handbrake works.
With the handbrake on, it still allows one wheel to rotate relative to the other one on the same axle. Hence the importance of chocking the wheels.
I have also got Arnott Gen III's which give an extra +2" lift on high. This allows me to crawl underneath for a lot of jobs without the need for jacks.