I did; it's an IPv6 address in Time Warner Cable's block that geolocates apparently to the wrong side of the US for RRTH - but geoip lookup isn't very accurate and it may just be showing me where their point-of-presence breaks out. If you look at mine, for example, it shows me as being near Bracknell...

Looking at the logs it would have been quite early in the morning for the real RRTH and they have signed up with a "free" email address. I've dropped him a PM on the other site to see if it genuinely is him. If not, I'll delete the account - slagging folk off is one thing but creating impostor accounts is quite another. We'll have none of that shit here.

If there's a sub it'll be on the left as you look into the boot, behind a cover. You'll see the CD player sticking out at the bottom.

mace wrote:

Also need to do something about the connector that disintegrated on Gordon whilst taking engine bay apart..

Mine has a cable tie around it.

If the pressure switch is actually switching, then yes, it sounds like the driver pack. Bear in mind that it might be cutting in and out because it's losing pressure from the tank, either past the threads of the pressure switch or through the undoubtedly leaky NRV.

The gearbox light ought to flash while it's changing ranges, then go out.

The wheelnut socket is 27mm. You don't need to take the wheels off to replace the bags, they don't get in the way.

(so you can be fairly sure nothing will work properly)

That would be like all those companies that used to advertise ex-rental TVs and VCRs in the back pages of Television magazine in the 80s, as "Grade A", "Working" and "Untested" :-)

Sorry about breaking the signup page! Good to see you on :-D

Nope, best I can do is a Vernier caliper. Frankly if they're not flapping about like a proverbial in a whatnot I'd just lap them in and see if they seal a bit better. "Good rattling fit" I think is the term :-)

Yeah, if it had been overheated badly enough it would be warped but if there had actually been much fire in that cylinder it might have burnt the metal a bit. Looks like it's okay though.

I guess if it's failed to atmosphere it's because the gasket's let go, rather than been cooked. I do wonder if it's maybe worth getting the heads skimmed anyway but I'm sure the folk who've had their engines well and truly apart will give you better advice :-)

What does it look like? Good, bad, indifferent?

The sensor is - or should be! - on the oil cooler at the front. You'll need to take off the radiator grille (four screws along the top, two at the front between the slats) and the centre slam panel (four 13mm bolts) to see it, on the right hand side of the gearbox cooler. Try cleaning up the connector a bit first.

Hmm, I wonder if it's worth organising a group buy of these kits? How much was it?

I guess that plug was held in with some sort of loctite? What did you stick it back in with?

Mine is steeped in oil and the wheel arch liner is missing?

I've got the wheelarch liners off mine until I do the Y-pipe, but I still couldn't get onto the bolt at the back. However, I might have done it a different way this time.

Actually on Mace's one it was easy enough to get the last bolt out from under the steering column! I don't know why mine was so tricky.

Yes, they weren't even tight. Looks like someone has been in at it in an attempt to change the manifold gaskets, before discovering that wasn't the problem :-)

What was the 12mm comment about?

Think that's referring to the exhaust manifold-to-head bolts, which are those funny rusty spliney looking ones like the one that dropped on you when you were attacking the downpipe bolts.

Getting the exhaust manifold off the head was the easy bit. I even worked out how to do it without dropping the steering column coupling...