Hi! Good to see someone else on :-)

I suppose the usual Landrover-buying advice - don't buy the first one you see, don't buy the cheapest one you see, don't buy one you haven't seen and be wary of one that's been mucked about with - always applies. There isn't really a lot you can't fix on them, although they do have a lot of electronics which might require some specialised diagnostic equipment. The workshop manuals in RAVE are pretty comprehensive, and between all the folk on this forum you'll probably find someone who has already done what you need to do.

considering the engine oil change on a P38 on its own is 6L odd!

I just wait until the dipstick's a bit low and change the oil then...

Anyone up for this? I had the only P38 at it last year, it would be nice to get a wee squad of us up. Details on the website are sparse at the moment but usually on the Saturday it's the "proper" competitions (Tyro, RTV and CCV) and on the Sunday it's a free-for-all around the (quite large) field. There's camping on site, which might be a laugh.

I can't remember if my V6-24 had split left and right.

Whichever way round your car is, it's the side that doesn't have the oil filler cap.

So it was the sensor on the gearbox oil cooler then? Good stuff, glad you got it working!

Is the demist/floor/face flap thing the same, with the big white plastic gear?

Mine has had advisories since before I got it for "suspension arm ball joint" but according to my MOT guy they mean the droplinks. I've got one of the new ones fitted...

Probably that daft wee wire with the M5 bolt onto the strut tower.

Incidentally although I knew that the tappets were supposed to rotate I didn't realise they rotated quite as quickly as that! With the engine turning over on the starter they were probably doing a full turn every second!

it affects chassis numbers from WA382672 to WA391018 (so early to mid '98) and the symptom is a tappety noise which you wouldn't normally get with the hydraulic followers.

WA388896. Well fuck.

Edit: actually, now I think about it I changed the engine but it was apparently from a late GEMS vehicle.

Hmm, I wonder if that's what's happened to mine?

That's the wee metal pads that press on the valves. I think a couple I looked at had a tiny mark on them but I don't know if it would be enough to care about.

I did; it's an IPv6 address in Time Warner Cable's block that geolocates apparently to the wrong side of the US for RRTH - but geoip lookup isn't very accurate and it may just be showing me where their point-of-presence breaks out. If you look at mine, for example, it shows me as being near Bracknell...

Looking at the logs it would have been quite early in the morning for the real RRTH and they have signed up with a "free" email address. I've dropped him a PM on the other site to see if it genuinely is him. If not, I'll delete the account - slagging folk off is one thing but creating impostor accounts is quite another. We'll have none of that shit here.

If there's a sub it'll be on the left as you look into the boot, behind a cover. You'll see the CD player sticking out at the bottom.

mace wrote:

Also need to do something about the connector that disintegrated on Gordon whilst taking engine bay apart..

Mine has a cable tie around it.

If the pressure switch is actually switching, then yes, it sounds like the driver pack. Bear in mind that it might be cutting in and out because it's losing pressure from the tank, either past the threads of the pressure switch or through the undoubtedly leaky NRV.

The gearbox light ought to flash while it's changing ranges, then go out.

The wheelnut socket is 27mm. You don't need to take the wheels off to replace the bags, they don't get in the way.

(so you can be fairly sure nothing will work properly)

That would be like all those companies that used to advertise ex-rental TVs and VCRs in the back pages of Television magazine in the 80s, as "Grade A", "Working" and "Untested" :-)