If the non-return valve inside the block is leaking (and it usually is) it'll drain the tank. You can check this by unscrewing the silencer and sticking your finger in the hole.

Gearbox cooler leak? Yeah, just make sure there's enough gearbox oil in it. Don't worry about that for now, it's not getting any worse.

Does it mean a lot more space needed to store everything?

I've got about 2TB of disk on this server, although backing them up to Amazon S3 may incur costs of a couple of quid a month.

Offtopic, but I'm not going to hear the bloody end of it until I implement some sort of image uploader, am I?

I've got the stuck one that I took off, with the broken tag. I'll take pictures when I take it apart.

The driver pack doesn't affect whether the compressor runs or not, it'll run just fine with no driver pack at all.

I've just done my driver's side handle with this technique, and it works just great. I actually got a handle from a scrap one and rebuilt its lock because the little lock tag thing had broken on mine, but I reckon I can work out a way to do a repair piece for that. My driver's side door lock has actually jammed solid, but the pins in the breaker were so close to the originals that with a bit of swapping around and a very small amount of re-profiling two pins I now have a totally working lock - and a handle that isn't stiff!

I did actually message RRTH about the signup here and he says it wasn't him. No-one has attempted to log into that account since it was created. Kind of disappointing, really.

Looks about right, it's too dark to check mine but I think it has the kicked-up bottom hose like that.

It won't level itself that much, and if it does you can probably fiddle it with the Nanocom - or indeed just unplug the solenoids.

If you've been fiddling about in the driver's door, check you haven't unplugged the door lock switches or the outstation.

If the vapouriser is getting hot it must be flowing through the heater matrix! Have you tried just taking the blend motors off and pulling the levers all the way forwards to see what happens?

Maybe driving the driver's side up on a ramp so the tank is the highest point would help.

I'd check it both at the sensor and at the ECU plug under the seat, just to be sure.

I wonder if the left and right mirrors are interchangeable between LHD and RHD models - which is yours?

For your vibration probably the first thing to check is that the wheels are balanced and straight. If it's been fitted with L322 wheels, they need a little spacer ring for the centre otherwise they run off-centre and vibrate. It's also worth checking the propshafts for any wear and play in the UJs, and getting some grease in there.

FL Signal Incorrect suggests that the ECU is just not seeing the right voltage from that sensor. Check the plug is in good condition and compare its voltage with the others at the ECU plug under the seat.

No, you should absolutely leave it in. Otherwise how will people know where to buy their door latches?

I have a certain amount of drama unfold (popcorn in hand) on a couple of forums regarding advertising commercial services. There appears to be an opinion that forum users who run a business shouldn't advertise unless they buy an ad.

Rules are pretty ad-hoc in here, at least until I get my arse in gear to write a TOS for the site. In the meantime, if you run a business that provides a useful and relevant service that people in the Range Rover community would benefit from then go right ahead, as long as you're not annoying folk. If you do okay out of it, great. If you make an absolute mint out of touting your wares on here, a contribution to the running costs would be in order :-)

As always, the overarching rule is Don't Be An Arse.

Road Trim Vehicle, or Road Taxed Vehicle depending on who you ask. As in, it may be modified a bit but it has to get to and from site legally under its own steam.

I've only ever done the Tyro but apparently recovery rings are needed for the RTV. Having seen what passes for a recovery ring on some of the "all the gear but no idea" Defenders that come out to play, I reckon the factory towing eye is more than up to the job of a straight tow, but I wouldn't want to snatch it.

You shouldn't get so far in as to need it on an RTV, anyway.

Good advice there from Gordon. If only I'd followed /any/ of it ;)

Not only did I not follow my own advice but I bought mine in the dark...