What radiator was it? I have a friend with a DSE, same thing happened to him - Nissens, in his case.

I'll see how the one I have is. If intact, glad to send it your way...

Bleah ... I am however impressed about the very fine filtering of the RRP38, regardless of the filter brand.

Every time I see the word "truck" used for something other than a ... "truck" is supposed to be, this type of image comes to mind ... :-)

I think the bonnet and rear tailgate emblems are not the ones for the period, but this seems to be a common mistake during "restoration". Pity they did not go the extra (little) bother of repainting axles and suspension arms ...

Good price indeed!
Don't use a screwdriver to try to pry open or close the tabs ... you will possibly break it!
I did not do it, but watch it happening in front of my eyes!

I am also curious as to how to remove the entire strip, the WM is not very clear on the subject. If anyone has ever done it, to respray the roof or similar (BTW my roof is very dark green and the body is Epson, I have never seen this elsewhere) ... glas to see how it is made. Must be lots of muck there, and corrosion options!

Florent in France (you must know him as 996Turbo) told me his close to 400hp S/C is nothing to brag about in terms of performance improvement ... nevertheless I love forced induction and I would be delighted to plan such mod. Wise? If I was wise would have steered away from British cars and Italian motorcycles ... :-)))
Dave I keep tabs on your ideas lol

Great information, did not know that ... thanks!!

Clive have been very detailed so there is not much to add :-)

But you need to decide what option you want: original or aftermarket. If the choice is cost or cost/effective driven, go aftermarket, either Thule or Yakima or whatever you can find where you are. I bought the Thule setup because the bar is adaptable also to my Audi, so I can only swap the "feet". You can position them fore and aft for long transport, or mid and aft for general/short loads.
Since I got tired of the swapping, and I was lucky to find the longitudinal bars and cross-bars at a decent price, I went for this solution. Have not mounted them yet, though .... I will sell the Thule "feet" and adapter afterwards, I guess.
But as Clive said, the entire setup is expensive and a fixed feature in the vehicle's roof afterwards. Are they noisy?

There is also another original option, the "Sports Cross bars" STC50252 - look them up in the RRP38 accessories catalogue. They are integral cross bar + mounting "feet", so no extra strange parts around, and can easily be mounted/carried around in the boot when not needed.
From an elegance and practicality perspective are not bad idea. From time to time they pop up for sale, again are two and you can mount them in any of the three positions, or you could get a third one if needed and use all the roof's mounting points.
It was the smartest and more stylish choice, but for now I'll stick with what I've got ...

I am putting back together the dash ... which means sorting the cables .... and checking out the rear window regulator or motor, that it has never worked (what a PITA job on a P38!) ... I left all the leather dash/center console parts for one of my regular suppliers to do some magic ... and I will soon re-start with the wiring for the aux battery. Photos? Soon!
After more than an year, I really want to put the RRP38 back on the road, I am becoming obsessed ... :-/

I got a favor/request instead, to any US-resident ... I am trying to buy some stuff from there and although I have a shipping address and all arranged, I can't get to buy it since the online form gets "confused" with me being non-US but having a US-address for delivery mismatching - obviously - my CC/billing address. If anyone feels compelled to help, PM me and I will explain :-)

Well, me also got very messy lately, but there are couple items I can let go - and find quickly if needed:

I got a lot of 2x Alpine radio units (Thor), one working with valid code, display ok, (only the volume acts up once in a while), the other I never tried it. Also 2x matching Alpine CD-changers with the magazines, one was checked by a service and cleaned up, is working but it jumps a bit (I fixed the silicon buffers but it did not do the trick), the other I don't know.
I moved away from the OE units and will not be going back, so these are available for any purist interested.
Since they all have some issue of sort, and True to His Word - remember the "mate's rates" :-) - I consider the lot "good for parts" and will accept any reasonable offer :-)

No, buying a Diesel not an option! :-)
I will think of a T arrangement somehow. In any case it is not critical at the time ...

That should be the color (dirty) of that silicon-resin where the electronics are, and which makes the driver pack not easy a rebuild ...
Numbers must have been scribbled when assembled, mine also has such ...

Good progress then!
I will update on mine once I resolve the TBH matter ...

Very little progress on this, I was stuck elsewhere in the car ... now, some advice - again - before I start cutting cables ....
Some opinion on positioning the split relay ... I have my ideas, but rather hear yours:

1 - side of the battery, inside the battery lid

2 - rear of battery tray/box

3 - side of battery box/tray

I also got a relay/fuse box to add the connection to the additional consumers not making unnecessary clutter ...

Which also need a place to go .... surprising not much space around the V8 engine bay.

4 - side of the battery box/tray

5 - rear of battery box/tray

My biggest problem is the relay box, option 5 requires I make a mount and it is too exposed to heat, and there it bothers other stuff (LPG, etc.).
Option 4 means for everything and anything battery needs to come out (no dramatic deal), but it is way neater, and closer to the main fusebox to keep cables in order. Might bother if I fit the relay close by though ...

The side cheeks in TAN are a rare find, but is this color?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-P38-Centre-Console-94-To-02-Cream-Tan-Out-Of-2001/293576763189?hash=item445a89e735:g:Q6MAAOSwwf1euX34
Where are you based? Send photos and info on the security case I will fw to a friend :-)

@Harv .... no man, I am right in East Europe, Continental weather ... so far is hot and torrid, but soon (long) winter will set in ....
I can try to run it without and see what happens, which I do not think is a problem ... just some hiccup on start up might be it. Earlier versions of the venerable RV8 did not have this gadget, didn't they?

Welcome!

Yesterday messing around in the area where I need to pass with the cables for the aux battery and instruments (another post will follow) I thought to clean up a little and mount the BMW tank with the sensor I've already had ...
While it fits no issues, I noticed is missing the extra plug that goes to the throttle body heater ... any workaround you guys might have? Or should I ditch that circuit entirely?
For now - since I needed to move the car out of the workshop and back into its ... resting place, I just fitted a large enough bolt :-)

Having asked permission to The Chief, He Has Agreed to open up a topic where we can share what we might have to give away, or need to find, for our RRP38s, whether is for sale, to buy, swap, or donate to another fellow in the pub forum :-)
His Only Requirement was <<not to spam with sales listings for every single bit and to remember to give "mate's rates" to forum members>> :-)
No need for specific rules, but to make it easier it would help to state where the item is, or where it can be delivered, condition, etc. ... and once sold/found to clear it or update the posts!