Finally changed the non-original window motor in the driver's door by a regular one, and restore the original plug butchered to the motor. No more "beep beep" for the antitrap not set!! Great!
The job of replacing the window lift mechanism was made easy since someone had already replaced it by a non-original mechanism, thus drilling the rivets already.
Took the time also to add some vibrodamping and sound insulation to both front doors, I always like that ...

I need to remove the rear window mechanism in both rear doors ... left one is "stuck", pressing the switch there is a clicking and the motor "thunks" but no movement, so I need to take it apart to check what's wrong. There is power to the plug when the switch is pressed, so it is not a BeCM or switchboard issue (thanks Marty!).
Right one, I need to replace the entire door in preparation for the paint respray, at it was badly fixed in an earlier stage and "wobbly" and I will just used the donor's door.
To remove the window lift, the manual calls for removal of 4 bolts but I don't see them, see instead a bunch of rivets. I presume the process is like in the front? Drill drill drill?

OK got the point. Will wrestle big black anaconda to the rear ...

Know the question is not directed to me, but after many years "away" from the green oval, for my (grandiose) return I would settle for no less than a V8 Range Rover (a "real V8", not that germanish crap), but the Classic is too much of a dinosaur on the XXI century, I fancied something a bit more modern ... plus I wanted EAS and +3t tow capability (which is rare in LHD European RRCs, except late German cars which means a total resto due to rust!) ... only one choice.
In hindsight however, I would have chosen a different RRP38 ... I had too much to restore after crappy repairwork from previous owners, and I ain't done yet!

Or just wait for next summer, if is a cold-ish one you might not need to bother at all! :-)

Was looking for something similar in the search archives, but came out empty handed.
Who shares the passion, enjoyment, or despair of owning/riding/restoring/repairing /hoarding motorcycles or bicycles?

My stable has a '98 Guzzi California EV and a '94 Vespa PX150 (that this year decided not to work at all so it misses the season!), but I am still overjoyed as I managed to put back on the road after four long years my old faithful Guzzi, so now I feel renewed!
This brought me also the will to finish lingering on the subject of getting myself a small enduro/trail bike, which I am looking at since years but never accomplished ... feel free to throw ideas or if you got something you want rid of, well ...

I also got to rediscover the joy of pedaling and I got myself a small 20" folding bike to carry around, in addition to a regular "touring" 26".
I've done more road on a bicycle this year than the last - at least - five ... feeling good about it as well.
Need to post some pics.

You guys?

Nice convoy there!

Marty, very nice color/combination! That blue is super rare, together with the red and gold I think it qualifies as the ones you almost never get to see... all are white black silver beige or the damnable Epson Green (which I love so much could not resist!).

The 3-spoke on KCR's RR would be the "Classic" (duh), used on entry-level models until 1997, after replaced by the "Futura" 3-spoke like the one seen here many times on the "ex-plod" ...
The color is very interesting!

That is nice! I like these out of the ordinary jap contraptions rarely available out of their island ... well, at least you guys with the steering wheel on the "wrong" side can easily get to them :-)

Hi crowd,
just to let you know the silence is just because I needed to order most of the things, here nothing that specific is available quickly (or reasonably priced). So now I am waiting for: t-max split charger, an anderson-type connector, the "megafuses" and holders (and spares! just in case O_o), and also a small fusebox/relaybox so I can put the stuff I want in relative order.

In the meantime I am sorting out the issues, first being due to my LPG tank I have very little space in the (former) spare wheel area, I might need to check for some of these strange shaped AGM batteries, might be expensive but ... I don't want the battery in the boot, I already got enough clutter planned there.
Second one is the section of the cables, being electrically illiterate I am having some issues understanding the (easy, for others) simplicity of the cable sections vs load. This to better guess what cable to run to the rear.
I got some meters of these two to use:

The red one I have loads, it is the one that takes power to the fusebox in the old audis. Not sure I can figure out the section, but the diameter of the copper is between 5-6mm. The black one is the ground to the battery from the engine bay area, so it is hefty, at least double.
I am sure you will tell me to use this one ... :-) In that case, does it make sense to run one cable inside the car (say the "+") and another (say "-" attached to the chassis rail?) I already have other wires to pass and don't have enough space ...

I will continue updating here so we keep all the info in one place.

You options go as far as your capability for tinkering and budget available go.
The seats always mount in the same locations with the same bolts -BUT if you have manual and want to fit electric, you do need to check you have the harnesses in the vehicle (under the seats). And yes, they run trhu the BeCM so someone might need to check into it.
This said, if you are willing to let the electric adjustment go, you can mount other seats' parts (this is leather, foam cushions) to your manual seats' bases, so you can upgrade without messing around with the existing setup.

Yeah, I would be curious about that one as well ... here in the southern latitudes the tendency is to quarantine you regardless, unfortunately.

I concur the P38 is very well suited for towing duties. I did haul many a car in its dedicated trailer (twin axle with 14" wheels, around 2.3/2.5t gross, generally in the class of vehicles I work with) and never an issue. Usually I lock the EAS on standard height and I am pretty level.
With the small trailer for lighter duties (single axle unbraked with 13" wheels) I lock instead the EAS on motorway mode, because on standard remains tilted backwards.

Always remember to utilize the gearbox to its full potential, don't leave it stuck in D and expect it to take all the strain!

Hello and welcome, brother of "model year".
I had in the past the 'rough road' error, this comes from the ABS/brakes computer. In my case, a failed ABS sensor kept acting up and sending on-and-off the signal. Obviously ABS/ETC were not working.
"Signal implausible" means the ECU received a signal that it cannot interpret ... either out of range, random, none, etc.

I think is easier to replace the entire bag than taking it out, taking it apart, rebuild it and fit it ...

Uh I forgot to mention the winch I use to haul up the dead on the trailer is a Warrior Ninja 4500lb. Yes, it is no Warn M8274, but on the other hand with the synth rope is fairly easy to carry and hitch/unhitch from the trailer, must be like 30 pounds.
I believe its max draw is 200A, and that is my reference point for my calculations.

With the bak-rak adapter and plate, it is easy to use on any 50mm towball. Nice piece of gear, the bak-rak (clever and British, you guys should be proud!). And easily adaptable for rear mount (if you have a tow hitch, which most have), or front (if I ever get to make or get one, like the one offered by Florent/RR Evolution)
https://rr-evolution.com/epages/e53aa5b9-2253-44ee-816d-684d89c8af19.sf/fr_FR/?ObjectPath=/Shops/e53aa5b9-2253-44ee-816d-684d89c8af19/Products/PMTA

That's where I got them from couple years ago - very satisfied.

As an occasional LPG installer with a sense of aesthetic touch and taste, and professional upbringing, I feel compelled to say that whoever butchered that panel to do that, should not be let anywhere near a tool again - never.
Just move 15cm from that unnecessary hole and it was possible to put the filler right by the fuel filler, covered by the flap, nice neat and totally professional job .... and the amount of effort and cost to do it was irrelevant compared to that thing in the middle of the rear panel. Pity.

Thanks for the food for thought - might indeed be a good idea to proceed in the direction of a split charge + 2nd battery.
Marty, I did forget the inverter ...another thing to add :-)

Sloth, how did you wire the manual control for the fans? I wrote some post above how I did it so far, but I am unconvinced is the way to do it proper ....

Thanks again for the great inputs!

As said above, is super easy even for the uninitiated - for me was an epiphany being able to do it by myself the first time! :-)
Please buy only the OE Dunlop ones, no need to go exotic and risk ... well you know what you risk.

Money wisest spent was on the Nanocom. Actually, I've budgeted in when I was set on a RRP38, wouldn't be without.
You will never lose that expense ....

My HeVAC was without book symbol, but was not running well anyway. I've discovered once I took everything apart my flaps were literally disintegrated, hence the poor flow - or lack of, depending on the position required. You never know ...

What brand was the compressor that failed, if names can be made?