I use this old topic to mention a weird matter ... I had a brake switch error and I bought a new one and replaced it.
I cleared the fault with the Nano and start the car - no errors.
The moment I depress the brake, beep beep and ABS/TC failure.
Same error, 01-07 Brake Switch Failure. Clear fault and will not show up until I depress the pedal again.
Anyone has an idea of where to look, assuming the switch I mounted is not faulty from new?
The cruise control works fine, so I assume the other switch is okay.
Sorry to hear about this misadventure ... I had this happening to me on a engine that was "using a little oil" and ended up being worse than a 2stroke ... I am very wary now of buying such a complex item such as engine secondhand ...
Me progress? Well, after endless time I finally refitted the tubing for the cruise control ... it works again!
I noticed sometimes it raises and dips the engine revs, like "hunting" to stabilize the right speed. Might be normal, but I do not recall this behavior before.
I also re-sync the fob ... finally I can remote open and close the car, like every other modern car!
Unfortunately I was met with a "key battery low" message, but the lid in the fob is truly stuck! I will have to destroy and get another one .... darn
This is good to know!
After mine failed, and stupidly gave 30 euros to the wreck truck for something I have been thinking in years to replace, I recommend to plan to do it a specific intervals.
By the way, mine failed when getting warm, not hot. And the cooling was not necessary overnight, after a couple hours would start again - which was what tricked me ...
Good nice looking!
Me, I finally got around to change that pesky brake switch which was giving me continuous beeps and errors.
Hope later to get it out on the highway and see if the cruise control came back as well ...
Next in line refit door cards.
I know of no way to remove the switches except by getting the console in the dash off.
They fit from the rear, not the front, and the switches are actually larger than the hole you see in the dash :-)
I have to take everything off to replace a couple burnt bulbs, but the price of these is staggering so I am ... delaying that.
If you notice, the cable towards the OBD in the car is a plastic plug on both ends.
The "Nano side" plug has metal borders, like old PC cables, and the Nano chassis too.
Connect first the "live" OBD and sometimes you can touch in an improper manner plug/Nano chassis when connecting, and you can see a little spark and hop! it goes the 5A fuse. Not always, but after happening to me a couple times I understood better leave the Nano side connected first ...
If you lift the fusebox with the three bolts as Richard indicated, be VERY careful what you do with it and how you lean it while you mess around under it, unless you first take the battery out. It is live down there, I once propped it aside while testing something and it moved to touch something and burned out a bunch of fuses. Dunno what happened, I was messing around inside the car and I heard a crackle of electricity and stuff stopped functioning ....
Indeed differently ... in the time I "suspended" use of the P38, I used an Audi A6 30V (this is the '90s model) quattro for towing duties. Performance wise it was okay even with a heavy load, and the manual trans was also not a problem, consumption difference was not noticeable, but the car's behavior was: butt-heavy (remember the original weight distribution in old Audis is horrible), but especially more fore-aft "shaking" - don't know how to define it, like the car gets "moved" by the trailer back and forth. This was with standard suspension.
I have as a plaything a S6 of the same vintage, with sport suspension and that lovely V8 (always in manual) and the effect is much less noticeable, while the engine pull is considerably better ....
I would advise against removal, unless you need to. Better don't mess around with it ...
My experience with towing is far less than Richard's but I do agree with a proper "shape" the towing isn't that bad on the consumption. I recon 10 to 30% more depending on how enthusiastic you drive. There are other tow vehicles with are far worse ...
Certainly it isn't the fastest tower around, but is a good ride. I usually keep it out of D (4th) when loaded unless the road is absolutely flat, and engine is above 2k as above indicated. Between 2 and 2.5 I find is the sweet spot for a balance between a good response and a reasonable consumption.
Yeah, and is a good idea indeed!
At 50 quid for a new one you may not want to take the risk : o) this failure is starting to sound fairly common
To be honest, I did order a new one, I opened the box and ... left it there. I went and got a 2nd hand OE.
The quality is really SH*Tpart for this item, at least the one I got delivered ...
Mine also took the belt cover and the top hose.
Just imagine what would happen if the bonnet is open and someone working on the engine ....
Sorry to hear, I had the same happening to me, in addition to all the damage described above, I also had - have, as I have no mended them yet - a little squashed the gearbox to oil cooler pipes.
Mine was also original, and this occurred a few weeks after replacing the viscous and the water pump.
I put the culprit in the work done, which somehow de-stabilized the fan and accelerated its destruction, but I guess will never know.
On the other hand, thanks to this I found out my rad was 1/3 clogged, and this was the reason for my perennial engine heat/overheat.
So I think the fan failure was a result of fatigue from "over working".
Unfortunately, I still have not replaced the hood, but worse, I cannot find a sound deadener in reasonable condition ....
My drain pipes - and I assume many others - were full of crap and gunk at the very bottom, where there is a concoction that looks like a rubber flap/valve. This does not allow bigger debris, like leaves, to pass, and it clogs the flap/valve, and the water level ... rises.
I removed them all entirely, I never understood their purpose anyway.
About "raining in", once I left the sunroof slightly open in the tilt position, and got a stain inside after some summer rain with wind. Curiously, my mate's Audi was parked in the same position with the sunroof opened as well, and got nothing in. Teutonic supremacy?
Thanks Richard, I see you use 'H' type which is the same I thought to use (was valid until 2004, so surely compatible with our "old" boxes).
I think also the manual R380 and transfer use ATF, so I would leave 75W-80 or 75-90W for the diffs.
Even for the diffs, I am wondering if 75W-140 would be a better choice ...
I am convinced, and colleagues that are auto box service/repairmen, always recommend a change at no more than 40K km for any type of auto box, regardless of what the manufacturer says. Fresh fluid can't hurt, especially considering the thermal stresses is subjected to. No-one recommends flush, but partial changes, or, if you are keen and diligent, you can get to a full change by opening the circuit in one of the cooler outlets and therefore replacing more fluid than with the standard drain/refill (including the filter/strainer).
The Audis that we service, that mount the 6-speed ZF 6HP26A ("A" is the Audi derivative, with the transfer/front diff in the same case), fall into that category as well. For those we drain and refill only as above, no flushing.
I would never flush on an unknown box, danger of freeing impurities that can complicate things is high.
If you do open the box and proceed to a full cleanup then is ok.
Now I got a question for the fellas ... what ATF you use in yours? I am not interested in brands, but type. I've replaced mine (partial drain/fill + filter/strainer, this was before I've perfected the method above) when I bought the car (239K km) and then I've done another one at 254K km. I plan the next in another 30K km, if the box holds as much ....
I've used Mobil 320 Dextron III type on both occasions, but now I have learned there are many "varieties" of Dextron III, ranging from C, D, H, J, and so on. Anyone has a clue that is the correct type for our old gearboxes?
I got a friend that made a total flush and went with Dextron VI (the full-synth) and he says his box changes much better, but I am afraid to try ....
great! I need to get off my ass and get this thing, now my "hole" in the finisher looks uglier than ever! :-)
I've also ordered a new sensor, since I have no rear spare, and I have noticed it varies wildly in its readings, like being stationary at 'normal' and jumps from like 90 to 130 to 85 to 125 and so on ... on access and on full high it does not do it, so I think it is a circuit problem. Unfortunately cleaning with contact spray or whatever does not solve, hence it goes (spare) and I will get another one. I don't want anymore to lose time and efforts on dubious success enterprises, if something don't work right and it is still available, might as well get on with it and ... get it.
Now, a doubt ... before ordering a new sensor, I thought I'd try calibrating it, using a number of wooden sticks gotten from a friend.
https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aog9VsSxOLcFmB406hI35Aw0j_LF
But, I raised the car to full high and put the 145mm block into the bumpstop, and this I get:
https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aog9VsSxOLcFmiDKJJAX4G_18_29
to say on full high I am "too high"? But the car looks right on on height, as well as other P38s at least.
What am I doing wrong? Once I get the new bags and sensor will have to calibrate, but I am failing to understand the proper procedure ... I think I might have asked in the past, but still got these doubts ...
Hi all, I revived this topic to update on my EAS suffering. As I mentioned in the "what have you done today?", after hitting a speed bump a little too vivaciously, I heard a puff and a lowering.
We discussed I might have busted a line or a air spring, well, after a few days I managed to limp towards my friend with a lift and I have found that ....
https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aog9VsSxOLcFmh9DQjASJPRhZ9HK
... the bag came apart in its housing, did not split or break. Oh well, since I have not a spare, I ordered two, this one will discard, and keep the other one (which is around 6 years old since mounted, but I did not use the beast for a full couple years) as reserve/spare.
For now I've "folded" it again, and it holds, I hope at least until when the order with the new ones comes ....