that must be the evaporation rate..... if it was a whiskey barrel you would call it the angels share.
75 /140 grade oil is fine in the diffs , don't use it in manual gearboxes, they will not go in to gear
in lo range along a 10km beach 36L to the 100km , that's the highest i have seen it . some times as low as 15L to the 100
my rover has side steps (after market type) and i use mine to get in . i also have springs and 50mm lift from standard
PS i have also nearly ripped them both off on rocks , they have scares . i have also wondered if the original side steps with all the plastic molding hold dirt and go rusty?
a little bit of history on my rovers , i purchased a 83 classic in 1991 and had it on the west coast beaches within 24hrs . i then drove this rover until about 4 yrs ago ( i still have it )1.2 million kms later it still goes today . this vehicle has done possibly 100 000 kms on beaches and it has never been pressure washed under the car whilst in my possession. i only ever used the garden hose and a good flood of water to remove the sand and mud . the reason for this is the wax dip it received on assembly , hot water and pressure blast it off and they go rusty . i know of others that pressure cleaned theirs and they went rusty on the outer sides of the frame where it was pressure washed? the reason i removed the car from the road was because the tail gate almost fell off, hinges rusted off, passenger door has all but fell off and the drivers side window has feel out off the frame etc etc but underbody is still today rust free
the p38 is the same no pressure or hot water under the car and all is as it was when i purchased it .
i do a lot off beach work and i use under car body paint ( basically its tar) on my beach vehicles . on the rover i use nothing and i don't pressure clean the frame either or use hot water under the car as these wash of the wax coating the vehicles come with
any name brand filter with a NRV. if you don't know the name or it has two names one in chinese , put it back on the shelf
when fuel pumps sit fore a long time they tend to bind up (seize that is ). remove the pump and physically turn the rotor if possible or buy a new one ?
sorry its not what you want to here. apply power directly to the pump even reverse the wires and try to free up the pump.
what did i do to my rangy , i drove the legs of it along sandy cape beach , this beach is notorious for claiming 4wds, almost consumed a patrol the day we went down, it took 5 4wds with winches to extract from the sand , he was lucky . being the first vehicle on the beach the next day after a big storm it was nasty. a 10 km beach that took 14 km to get off, locked in low and go go go , had a hell of a day, fun all round.
i get to go first for a change , the sun came up 4 hours ago its 10 o'clock hear and definitely not snowing, a sunny day for us.
make sure you over indulge and don't forget to drink to much and play with the kids, as that's what they really wont . best wishes to all
MERRY CHRISTMAS
to all and a happy new year...
you guessed right , its sunny a little windy today , also a little smokey in NSW QLD but nice in Tassie
haven't done anything to rover of late , being a good girl . might give her a wash.
have you tried turning the key that fits the lock and push the buttons on the other at the same time to sinc up fob or dose the fob need to be in contact with the car
their is a pin in the fob for the key , the blade is removable, knock out the pin and swap keys over. another option?
i think oldshep56 has hit the nail on the head .... unless you want to spend some money ?white smoke is steam so its leaking water in their somewhere, so heads off also some plugs and leads maybe desirable . a compression test will confirm this.
no i haven't dismantled an ac pump but i believe the seals are teflon similar to those in power steering pumps
the drain from the ac might be blocked
no not quite there yet , those pressures are at idle, the correct pressures are 36psi at idle 38psi at run give or take 2psi only , now factor in fuel use and that pressure will drop, the pump has to supply at least 2L of fuel at the correct pressure to supply the motor under full load
PS quick test stand where you can hear the pump and have some one clamp of the fuel line slowly , this will make the pump squeal under the load or it will race as the pump cavitates ,fuel pumps are positive displacement so dont close it off any longer than a couple of seconds, if you can close of the line and the pump continues to run, its stuffed. IMHO
there's a tool for that (helicoil 5334-14 sav a thread ) this tool is 14mm/1.25 pitch not shore its the correct thread size but will give you the idea . if you require to do this put piston as close to top as possible and use grease to collect as much of the cut material as possible , a piece of wire with grease on it can be used to collect any material in the bore . cut 2 threads and remove tool and clean reapply grease and do agian untill all threads cut , its not a hard job just time consuming