The drop links keep the anti roll bar semi rigid on the ends, there meant to keep both the wheels at the same level in theory, ie, if one wheel lifts or drops, it’s meant to make the other follow the same route, although not exactly, ( as near as ).
I’m not surprised you didn’t notice it, I think our EAS does such a good job that the anti roll bar doesn’t get to much of a hammering unlike some cars

Got a big smile on my face, seeing David’s parts cleaner on FB,
( dishwasher) brings back memories of a missed friend here, RIP Orangebeam,,

Just went and looked at mine, it starts 08D, suppose i better update my logbook, lol

Just double checked after reading all through the posts, it’s definitely 08D, compression 37:1, the 0 has / through it, runs just as well, if not better than the high comp engine it had originally

As long as it’s zirconia it should be ok, check with nano that it’s working, I got sent a supposedly zirconia one to find it wasn’t, and of course because it had been fitted they refused to take it back, the tosses on eBay need to sort there listings out..

I think old classics will always be on the road, it’s a cult in reality, there’s cars over 100yrs old that still adorn our roads ( London to Brighton )
Of course you could spend the next 8 years fitting as many batteries as you can find and hide in your p38 and a couple of motors and join the green crew, but I doubt if it will sound as nice running on batteries,
I always take the piss out of my neighbour with his milk float ( as I call it ) m series bmw, the bloody thing has nearly run me over twice as I don’t hear the bugger coming , lol

So it gets even stranger, past week I’ve had the battery disconnected, and low and behold, hasn’t dropped a mm in height,, I’m now wondering if the sudden battery drain I’ve got is doing something to the valve block,, scratches my head,, 🤬😤

It will come off, sometimes it’s a tap, other times it’s a whack,, you are doing it right

When my lambda went pop, mine adjusted the mixture so much that from hard acceleration to nothing it would make one bank so rich it would flood them and try to stall.
When running on a level throttle it would cough and splutter badly, new lambdas sorted it out and my mpg increased..

<<< admits this is all over my head, haven’t looked into how people can be affected by it, I just do as I mentioned, I don’t think we will ever be free from our lives having intrusions that we don’t want.
Jeez, even my cars been intruded on by some one with a wireless item, battery dead after 2 days non use. ( new battery )
Asked all the neighbours if any new toys for Christmas..they all say no 🙁

<<<<< is sitting on the sidelines, drinking my tea, smoking a ciggy, thinking why are people getting so het up on GDPR, it doesn’t matter what you do, some bastard always gets hold of your details, delete all the crap emails, throw the junk mail in the bin, block any A-holes that call you.
Reading and agreeing to t&c means nothing, the companies will do as they feel fit..
This post was Gordon informing us about GDPR which seems to have started a massive debate, let’s all go play with our cars and have fun..

The steering wheel looks like it’s been refurbished, so there’s a saving, lol,

Gotta love that we only have 2 pre cat sensors to fight with, lol

I’ve never had one leak, so a 2 nd hand one is most probably ok.
I understand what your saying about rebuilding it, but surely if a kits available, rebuild your one..
I remember Marty fighting to get the arm off his one.

I remember the good ole days, when everything had a grease nipple, was part of a service , days when things were made properly.

dave3d wrote:

A method I have used to verify if it is the bag leaking, is to put a temporary manual valve in the airline to the bag. Blow it up, valve it off and leave it overnight.
If it still drops, it must be something else ...... probably the solenoid valve leaking. Get a cheap plastic ball valve with 6mm connections on Ebay.

Solenoid makes more sense, it’s been a while since I’ve had a valve block apart, must grab the spare and have a look

Gilbertd wrote:

Change the bags. For 100 notes it isn't worth risking burning out the pump.

I know that,, BUT why is it only when damp or cold it does it, all summer it will sit for weeks before dropping, ive sat it on different heights as well, so I’m pretty sure the bag is good, it doesn’t look too old, although this year EAS is getting overhauled completely,,

Ok, so all summer my car sits lovely, doesn’t move overnight, but as soon as the wet or cold weather comes my front right drops overnight, It’s been doing this since I bought it, ive changed the valve block for my spare, sprayed the bag all over, it’s just weird that it only happens with damp or cold weather.
I have a 4 pin relay so not the self levelling.
Any thoughts welcomed

I’m with Clive, if the genuine ones have lasted the nest part of 20 yrs why consider anything else, the ones on the end I’d also go genuine, after buying mine I found the PO had fitted yellow shitpart poly bushes, within months the panard bushes were shot, total waste of time and money in my eyes

Go and check the weight first, as nick says, some of them are a hernia job to pick up ( I know, I have one ) mine is a 3 tonne, but still twisted when I jacked up my old dse on a slight incline, strengthened now to make even heavier, lol

You’ve got to remember 99% of mechanics nowadays can’t rebuild anything, they have a posh name of motor technicians, which translated means I MIGHT be able to change your bulb, unless of course it means unscrewing anything,, I only replace like for like, i can’t do it if it means I might get my hands dirty,,