Didn’t realise it can’t talk to early 322s, not that I plan on playing with one, thanks for info guys
So I know I can read faults in hevac ect on all p38 models, can I read them on models that I don’t have any engine codes, ie l322, 405 ect
Morat wrote:
Sloth wrote:
I do, but I'd rather not post up too much publicly. Feel free to PM me if you want - I can try and assist.
Programming other keys to the BECM requires a) the BECM to be in an unlocked state and b) to know the fob code of the remote lockset you wish to programme in.
Unlocking the BECM needs a Faultmate and the SM035 module. This requires a direct connection to the MCU in the BECM, via soldered on leads to the logic board.
Sloth, does this mean you could theoretically program a fob from a scrapper to work with any BeCM? If so, is it a service you could offer? I can offer you first place in future burger queues :)
Ok, get in the queue, lol,,
Very sad news, RIP tony
I was under the impression that the keys are available here, but they come from the states, I will have a look for that discussion, the guy got a number 3 key, he gave me the dealer details but I’ve filed it somewhere
Found the dealer, Gordon lamb in chesterfield
I spotted the difference straight away, think about a milk container, look for the bit milk container colour,,
Mine isn’t to bad, but I do now and then hit the main beam, so gonna try this myself 😁
Aragorn wrote:
Sloth wrote:
I have the Silca part numbers of compatible blanks if not somewhere. Could get a decent independant key cutter to copy your key's blade onto one of those.
I think that sounds like a wise move actually, i think i will get a basic non-remote key made to keep in the drawer should the worst happen and the remote get lost.
If you get a blank, you will find it needs a bit of filing ( or at least I’ve found that) to bring the width of the blade to spec, certainly measure before money is wasted on cutting a blank that won’t work.
Personally I’d get a grinder on it, once your so far down it will weaken enough to start moving, your method of assembly is exactly how I’d do it, what make of bearingare you using, Timken is the preferred..
£300, holy shit, last one I bought was £147
Strangely enough, I’ve changed the pipe and it’s starting fine, scratch’s his head ..
The way it was shutting off was weird, was instant, as though you cut power ect.
Stopped and started maybe 50 times now, been out for a drive, all good..
Sounds like you need to find someone with a nanocom nearby so passive can be switched back on to sync the keys, the later ones ( 99 onwards) normally sync themselves, today I put new battery in my car, left it 30 minutes till led display cleared keycode lockout, opened with key, cranked it and the key sync’d straight away.
Ps, change that rf receiver before it catches you out
My usual mind whirring round I’ve just gone out (1.30am) and pulled the purge valve and pipes off, found a wear mark caused by vibration/movement which has worn a tiny hole in the pipe, now it’s where did I put the spare pipes a had,, time to enter the tardis ( my garage) and find them, gonna slide another pipe over it to protect it, hopefully this will sort it, fingers crossed ..
update later when ive done as mentioned above
I’ve not seen my eka when playing around,
I saw a 3 digit security code, but eka was empty, don’t want to play as I don’t have my code.
I actually replaced mine a year ago, genuine part, can’t see it failing that quick, I’ve got vacuum on the fuel cap, so that seems ok as well, I’m thinking I might have a wire down in the loom, as my lpg failed and I’ve not been able to get that working no matter what I changed ( everything but loom)
Remember early disco ones are the same ( if I remember correctly)
davew wrote:
CKP ?
When mine gets moody I show it this:
I’ll show it a box of matches if it keeps on,,
Got it started after5 minutes of short cranks, it ran for 2 minutes then shut down instantly, another 10-20 cranks it started again, read the codes, P0445 purge valve on evap system, have removed fuel cap and it looks fine, reinstalled and no difference, will order a new cap as precaution, was running perfect when I parked up !
So obviously I’ve upset mine after giving it a hoover inside, always been reliable as of the past 18-24 months, started first turn, but today it’s just cranking, plugged in the nano, no faults stored, looks like I know what I’m doing today ( as if I haven’t got enough going on) 🤬
You know what will happen, all of a sudden it will pop out, I had I fight with mine, then all of a sudden it came out