Is there such a thing as a bench test for an air bag? I have an old air bag that i want to test... short of fitting it to one of my fleet is there a way to do a leak test on one? Obviously a bike inner tube you can just hang up on a hook and see if it goes down...not sure how that translates to an air bag though... This may turn into a comedy thread of course...let's see
also - please post the pics
Nano will also tell you if the p38 has received a valid signal, so a good place to start.
Ferryman wrote:
I've seen Marty replying to someone where he states that the the small lip that goes along both batteries might contact both, resulting in only 3 volts. He says put a small strip of insulating tape on the battery where the lip passes to avoid this.
Aha - interesting idea.. that cd explain alot
do you have access to a nano? Did you reset adaptive values yet? Nano may reveal some odd readings on the sensors, if you post the readings up
lol...
I just did this on my "new" one....double fail - motor and non return valve. The NRV was completely blocked, so I suspect that went first, and then killed the pump. You can remove the fog lamp without too much drama, no need to remove the front bumper, but as Marshall says bumper removal is not that big a deal (if the bumper is not rusted on and the bolt heads are not rusted to hell). After the fog lamp is off, find yourself a small bore tube and bucket. Then - without removing any of the pumps... identify the dead rear one (it may not be where you think it should be, but probably outside left), and remove the pipe on it, stick your finger over the end and then stick your tube on it. Go make a cup of tea. The whole reservoir will drain without any fuss...remove pump (push fit) and multiplug, and then reconnect. For the NRV you need to lift the LH deck in the boot space and look around the area of the rear light cluster... you shd see the little sucker in there as it rises up inside the D pillar...you might need to use the little door for changing the light bulbs for extra access...
You get bonus points if you avoid getting any screen wash down your sleeve
Tnx gas man.... Looks great...I wd be interested in a couple if your son is knocking some out
Is your new shedder oem? Or diy? I need to replace mine next time the door card is off
I used a nylon trim tool to reasonable effect...putting a solvent anywhere near the gloop generally makes more of a mess...I wd just go with mechanical removal (and no chisel?!)
Hello gaffer... impressive fleet
I'm not patient enough, but good to know :o)
I didn't pull any of the micro switches apart yet, but i did wonder if the red/black nipple is a little "boot" fitted/ glued to the top of the micro switch?
tnx Richard - do you still have a link to the RS micro-switches i can't see anything similar myself. Anyway, the fix seems to have work so but it's always good to have spare stuff just in case ; o)
Interesting thread - starter motor failing to disengage is very plausible... As regards leaving these cars standing for any period of time...it takes less than a minute to pop the hood, remove the negative off the battery and slam lock the doors
closed circuit on the CDL microswitch... once i'd got the lock out then a bit of digging into the rubber behind the microswitch and it magically recovered, refilled with hot melt glue and fingers crossed it holds - seems to so far, although after i plugged the door lock back in the central locking had a few lock/ unlock spasms - don't know if that's normal ?
Has anyone discovered where you can get the microswitches from? just curious for next time...
Just because Nano says it can't communicate with the ECU it doesn't mean it's true...i was using mine just yesterday to interrogate the EAS and it gave me the same "can't communicate" message on the faults screen but all the ride heights popped up on the Inputs screen with no problem, including the live data
On that basis I have a lock i could use as a donor (came from PO) but having just stripped it, it looks like a right PITA changing the switch block from a right handed to left handed, and if it fails then back to square 1... I will check out ebay....as ever, tnx for the advice
Retrieved the nano... the NSF door latch locks on the fob, but does not unlock. The NSF switch status remains "unlocked" no matter whether the dorr is unlocked or not... so i guess that shd be a micro- switch in the NSF door latch, right? Is this an easy fix... or better just to hit ebay...
How true 😄