The Land Rover gods smiled on me today... I was making slow progress drilling into the stuck thread of the rocker arm bolt, and then suddenly it seemed to give way but actually, it had turned......then i put a left handed drill bit on it and it came out!! Ok, so it was a coarse and oily thread, but even so, i never really believed in left handed drill bits, but now I am a believer. Anyway, I've chucked the other bolts and ordered new as they clearly can't be trusted. I'm back on course...

For my therapy and your entertainment: Task, remove rocker covers and paint them...simple enough you would think... Took the covers off and the gasket lost one of those little embedded spacers. Convinced it had fallen somewhere into the rocker assembly i started fishing inside with a magnetic pick up...the end section came out and i had a magnet stuck right inside the head assembly next to one of the lifters... Took the rocker arm off, push rods out... accidentally dislodged a couple of the lifters... managed to lift those back into place, against the odds...removed the magnet... Found the spacer on the ground between a couple of paving stones... I was feeling pretty good for 15 mins until I started to torque up the rocker arm to 10, 20 and then 28 pound foot, slow and cautious...Before i made it to 28 on the final bolt the bugger snapped... and of course the break is at the same level as the head... so that will be a drill out job i guess. :(

Chris, to clean the engine bay i just used regular solvents - meths or worst case, acetone (i wouldn't use that on the hoses though) . That said, your engine bay sounds greener than mine ever was :)

Richard, couple of questions: i. Where do i see the knurled knob in the pic above? ii. The lpg ecu is now depowered. I may leave the re-wiring until last...is the ecm to injector wiring connection still continuous via the depowered lpg ecu? Or it won't work until i break and remake the injector wiring ?

Clean the whole engine bay and then have a look for UV traces after running at pressure... I've had various leaks across a few LRs, condenser and hoses were the easy ones, but I also had a leak from a compressor, at the clutch
...Unless you find the UV trace then dont waste time, and just recharge in May each year?
I assume the clutch is pulling in as it should? If not then there are other fixes to consider

No, M6, but 12 mm long. Only the first 8mm of thread was clean, so presumably 4mm protrusion for the jet

Turns out they're 12 mm, perhaps helps with dispersal? But it looks like the thread was only in about 8mm ( the remainder is black)

Tnx. Wd 10mm bolt length be about right, do you think? Or shorter...i'll need to order some

I dont do many miles, never use lpg and it causes a coolant leak, so I plan to decommission it.looks as if I need to drain half the coolant, remove the plenum and then the hoses that were drilled into the inlet manifold. Then I need to blank off 8 holes in the inlet manifold and 1 in the plenum?
I assume theres no need to remove the actual manifold itself. I can disconnect the ECU easily enough, and then examine how it was spliced into the engine ecu.... I may leave the tank in place for now, but if so, how should I seal it off (it's empty). Any other key jobs?

That was of course option no 1, but a normal flat blade is too thin, and if you twist it in the slot the screwdriver blade is harder than the uj/shaft and will leave a scar

By far the most time consuming step is getting the shaft on and off. for the removal I used a cooling fan spanner in the slot between the plastic ring and the uj. Wiggle it back and forth until you have more room and then use one or more 19 mm open spanners.
I like the open chisel idea, but with hindsight i'd buy a sacrificial cold chisel 12 to 18 inches long and grind it to about 2mm thicker than the slot you need to spread on the shaft and to the same width as the length of the slot. TIme spent on prep will be well.spent...

Worth checking the firing sequence, even for the umpteenth time...

Welcome ( back) to the loony bin...

Makes sense I just got a long piece of wood in the end, and tapped the shaft on gently with a mallet, in line with the chassis rail.

The washers I had on my banjo bolts were quite sophisticated: metal outside with a silicone inner, so I reused them

No missing spline, but i'll give the cold chisel a whirl

Whats the secret to getting the lower end of the intermediate shaft back on to the splines of the replacement steering box...any genius ideas?

A ring of red loctite, or plumbers tape?

Personally I don't worry about High - that you can measure from the wheel hub using a measuring stick (how long does your P38 drive in high anyway...) Select high ride height, insert standard blocks...select access and then use the nano to accept the ride heights for the standard setting... no need for jacks or anything else... The other important thing as Richard mentioned is the bit count left to right - a big difference in bit count seems to cause problems, and if necessary (ie EAS still seems to be strange things) you need to manually reduce the difference across the axle using the nano (or EAS software). If both L&R sensors were identically aged and worn either side or brand new you probably wouldn't have to do this

Yesterday I went for my first drive after replacing the hose on my Cruise Control. It still doesnt work.... I have also put a battery on the motor as a test, the Diaphragm pulls in, no problem...Before I dig out rave and start going through the diagnostic waterfall, what is the next most obvious probem to check?