true - worth a go : o)
I'm chasing an "RHF air gap too large" fault, but working on the LH sensor because nano shows that that is the wheel that starts moving later than the others. To be sure that I knew which wheel nano was reporting for sure, I struck on the idea of disconnecting the LH sensor to prove that it was that wheel triggering the fault. Unfortunately i just got the error "e2" straight after. I reconnected the sensor, but now it doesn't respond at all (well, not sure it was responding before tbh), reports e2 or occasionally "e1"...and the faults message is back to RHF air gap too large
Any clues?
nah LHD owners have it easy...who said "O rings"?
ok, so the trick I am missing is moving the coolant tank... I will look into that, tnx
Just bleeding the brakes on my "new" P38, and I spent half an hour cutting away the bulkhead insulation around the rear booster bleed screw so that I could a. see it and b. get a pipe on it. Maybe I am missing a trick, but i don't see how it's possible to do the full brake bleed without removing the insulation... which means that neither of my P38s were ever properly bled before I got to them... thoughts?
I'd just have the indie test the alternator, and if necessary ship him a volrage regulator that he can change over...before you start messing around with the hvac. Iwd also highly recommend installing a voltmeter/USB socket in place of the cigar lighter, then your daughter can keep an eye on the battery voltage
Oh that...yes, PO fitted it..I kind of like it...I was going to try and fit it to my "new" one. But on examination fitting involves drilling the upper tailgate and bolting it on...and I didnt want the hassle
3rd brake light? think someone just switched the lenses (before my time...)
Is it possible to rebuild the cones?
the minimum is 600 including VAT, but the buyers fee is 6%+ VAT
Tnx Richard. I'll lob in the old light units on request :-)
Lpgc...right...free to sell and buyer pays premium. No vat on the car tho, obv.
Collecting cars seem to have quite a good formula in terms of detailed photos and full disclosure
can't remember if this is allowed- if not please delete... for your entertainment...one of my 50ths up for sale ...I can't justify running/ maintaining 2 while holding down a full time job : o)
https://collectingcars.com/for-sale/1998-range-rover-p38-4-6-vogue-50th-anniversary
Only a grand so far !!
Not enough juice on the battery...I only saw the vanishing hevac once and that was the battery collapsing... Is the alternator charging properly? Have you uprated the VR?
You mean you want the black 16 pin male socket for the blend motors? With the female pins...its an Amp econoseal J series 40 16 way (not type II) ...they're there if you look hard
Think I solved the problem, but not entirely sure why... RR no 2 came with a rather sorry looking HEVAC unit in the boot... looking at it there were traces of a genuine double sided gasket on the front of the unit - so I realised that it was probably the original ECU. I tested it and found that the distribution switches were not working - which was presumably why the PO changed it out. Opened up the unit - cleaned off the contacts...installed it, and book symbol gone... The original was 101890, whereas the fitted one was 102550... whether it really has to do with the model number, still not sure, but I had a second 102550 and that was not co-operating either, so seems fairly likely.
Yes - that's the bit I can do "all day long" - all blend flaps working fine...but if the RH potentiometer is not the problem (even if the Fault screen says it is) then why the book symbol?
The distribution motor powers up/ adjusts on ignition, but then pressing the various buttons on the HEVAC doesn't elicit a response...so the one message I could understand is "distribution potentiometer not working" - but nano has never said that so then it makes me think "programming glitch", but that way madness lies
I'm a bit stumped... Book error came up on RR no 2, and as I had a couple of spare 2nd hand blend motors, which tested fine I thought I'd open her up on the RHS and replace both motors. Distribution flaps were a bit tight and i loosened them off with the self tapper in the middle. After a bit of swapping ( i have two hevac's, repinned the connector, swapped motors over) I have a Distribution motor that powers up on ignition II and seemingly a functioning LH and RH blend motor and i can watch the blend %age (on Nano) go up and down all day long - although not the distribution motor. But...i keep getting one error (ie only one at a time) in Faults...it is variously RH blend motor open circuit, RH blend potentiometer circuit has failed, RH blower is open circuit. I would merrily go and buy some new blend motors if i believed that was the error, but it would be great if Nano could make up its mind. it might even make sense if it said that it was the distribution motor...
Has anyone developed any relevant expertise in the interpretation of the nano?
Thanks so much...
Do you have PayPal? Pm me your email and i'll drop you a fiver for pnp