You mean you want the black 16 pin male socket for the blend motors? With the female pins...its an Amp econoseal J series 40 16 way (not type II) ...they're there if you look hard

Think I solved the problem, but not entirely sure why... RR no 2 came with a rather sorry looking HEVAC unit in the boot... looking at it there were traces of a genuine double sided gasket on the front of the unit - so I realised that it was probably the original ECU. I tested it and found that the distribution switches were not working - which was presumably why the PO changed it out. Opened up the unit - cleaned off the contacts...installed it, and book symbol gone... The original was 101890, whereas the fitted one was 102550... whether it really has to do with the model number, still not sure, but I had a second 102550 and that was not co-operating either, so seems fairly likely.

Yes - that's the bit I can do "all day long" - all blend flaps working fine...but if the RH potentiometer is not the problem (even if the Fault screen says it is) then why the book symbol?

The distribution motor powers up/ adjusts on ignition, but then pressing the various buttons on the HEVAC doesn't elicit a response...so the one message I could understand is "distribution potentiometer not working" - but nano has never said that so then it makes me think "programming glitch", but that way madness lies

nada

I'm a bit stumped... Book error came up on RR no 2, and as I had a couple of spare 2nd hand blend motors, which tested fine I thought I'd open her up on the RHS and replace both motors. Distribution flaps were a bit tight and i loosened them off with the self tapper in the middle. After a bit of swapping ( i have two hevac's, repinned the connector, swapped motors over) I have a Distribution motor that powers up on ignition II and seemingly a functioning LH and RH blend motor and i can watch the blend %age (on Nano) go up and down all day long - although not the distribution motor. But...i keep getting one error (ie only one at a time) in Faults...it is variously RH blend motor open circuit, RH blend potentiometer circuit has failed, RH blower is open circuit. I would merrily go and buy some new blend motors if i believed that was the error, but it would be great if Nano could make up its mind. it might even make sense if it said that it was the distribution motor...

Has anyone developed any relevant expertise in the interpretation of the nano?

Thanks so much...

Do you have PayPal? Pm me your email and i'll drop you a fiver for pnp

Morat wrote:

OK, some progress to report!
The HG had a nice big hole in the side - luckily the block doesn't appear to have suffered so I'm just getting one side done. I hope this cheaping out doesn't bite me on the arse in a month's time but I gues we'll just have to see.

There's only one "While we're at it" that we're aware of. This metal pipe to the intake is horrible and rusty. It seems to be one of these: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-PEQ000030P1 which is available (yay) or I can pay an extra £20 for the Green Oval. I'm tempted to just get the cheap one powdercoated. What do you reckon?

In other news, the liners pass the fingernail test - so I'm hoping that the worrying ticking noise was just the HG in "pre-failure mode". Unless it was the other bank, of course! :)

I'd do the one side if it was just the passenger side, but if it's the drivers's side that needs fixing then do both. I did the passenger's side alone, before I later had to go back in and do the driver's side, but I don't regret doing only one side the first time out because the driver's side was so much more painful in terms of getting the heat shield off and removing the steering column

Tnx Richard

I have a spare EAS unit, and last weekend i did a refurb of the block and the compressor. I know that the driver pack cannot be repaired as such, but is there a way to bench test it ?

Lol...I'll leave well alone then...I was just curious

C104... Lots of the green stuff...cut out and soldered up, all fine now

I already switched the switch- that made no difference. My other P38 is in bits at the mo (fixing the heater box)... I will try and rebuild that tomorrow to compare. The other thing i was thinking was the wiring from the switch to the EAS ECU... or at least the connectors...it seems to be routed through the LH footwell.... I have soldered up the connector with the wiring for the outstation, but not the other one... i'll take a look at that tomorrow too.

Tnx for the assistance

I changed out the ECU for another (no 2) and that ECU set the car to standard height with all the height settings for the other car - i guess that infor is held in flash memory. Then I changed back to the original ECU (no1) and it defaulted back to High, with the original height settings. Changing the relays didn't help either.
Car goes up and down on nano - and i can do separate valves too - the only thing is it is slow to rise back up...

I took the car for a spin, with the original ECU. Since i'm in London, it's basically 5 miles to get somewhere where i can go over 35, and for 60 mph I ended up doing a 40 mile round trip. The car dropped to standard height first , and then motorway height, and then back up on my return journey - all as expected. Still no response to the switch though. I wonder if there's a state where the ECU is programmed to ignore the ride height switch - like insufficient pressure from the pump? The pump runs... but it feels like it should be making the adjustment faster.

There is a fault reported, btw, but it just says "code not recognised"...helpful

I went to Germany this week and left the car at High, and disconnected the battery. I came back, reconnected, as I've done many times. Started her up no problem, and went to run an errand...but...no response when i went to lower the ride height. Being stuck at high is not the worst thing in the world, but i need to use it on the road tomorrow, so looking for a fix. The system has been fine for 5 years, but recently in the last few months it wd sometimes sag at the Rear RH corner when i left her parked. I'm convinced it was the system doing the deflating and not a leak... i could be shopping for 5 mins and would come back and it had gone down... other times it would just sit at standard, and it would sit at high all day long. But now as i say it wont adjust from High.... Well, I say wont, but i can plug nano in and make the car go up and down, all the sensor bit counts adjust dynamically. Fuses are ok, and switches test ok on the nano - except the raise/ lower one - which would be a red flag, but i took the switch of my other P38 and nano reads the same - no response to the ride height switch.... I'm suspecting the EAS ECU, which I suppose is easy enough for me to try... but, does anyone have any alternative theories?

Lol. Airbag as in spring... So I guess I cd mount it in a trolley jack, but I guess i'll just try it on the car.
Wd be fun to test a few SRS air bags though :-)

Is there such a thing as a bench test for an air bag? I have an old air bag that i want to test... short of fitting it to one of my fleet is there a way to do a leak test on one? Obviously a bike inner tube you can just hang up on a hook and see if it goes down...not sure how that translates to an air bag though... This may turn into a comedy thread of course...let's see

also - please post the pics

Nano will also tell you if the p38 has received a valid signal, so a good place to start.

Ferryman wrote:

I've seen Marty replying to someone where he states that the the small lip that goes along both batteries might contact both, resulting in only 3 volts. He says put a small strip of insulating tape on the battery where the lip passes to avoid this.

Aha - interesting idea.. that cd explain alot

do you have access to a nano? Did you reset adaptive values yet? Nano may reveal some odd readings on the sensors, if you post the readings up