Is there a prize for the poster of 30k?
Booked in for a recharge tomorrow with ATS....when I went in on the 24th ATS evacuated the system for me. The compressor today was an easy switch - receiver drier was a little more time consuming, mainly because i dropped the bumper off. My Toolzone green rings, although metric, were not much use for the receiver drier - looks like you need 8x2 on one branch, and 8x2.5 on the other, but hard to be sure
+1 diff.. i also replaced mine at the point of big clunk fwd to reverse, with an ashcroft replacement too...
the only thing i would say is that the ashcroft paint on the diff will last about 5 minutes once on the vehicle, so repaint with your favourite stuff before you bolt it on
i guess jmc will need someone state-side though
possibly trapped air... each time you fill the coolant up to the line... engine on and the hot air expands wherever it's trapped, and blows the coolant through the pressure valve on the expansion tank.... an untraceable "leak", unless your overflow pipe runs straight out under the expansion tank in which case you've probably got dried coolant under there
Tnx Richard...we're a 4, although maybe you will be too soon?
I'll just crack on with it...gives me something to do on Boxing Day
So, my a/c compressor has a slow leak around the seals (green/UV oil gets spun off the clutch). So i decided to fix it...I have a replacement compressor (long since gave up on the hope of finding a seal kit), a new receiver drier and bunch of metric green o rings... The replacement compressor is pre-dosed with PAG oil.
Can I just bolt the new bits on and change over the pressure switches and then take it somewhere to have the ac evacuated and filled? Instructions with the compressor talk about having to flush the system etc etc - is that really necessary? Then I would need to find an ac fitter and the whole job becomes that much more expensive/ time consuming
Tnx in advance for the advice, Rob
Ho ho ho - Merry Xmas everyone
For me it was the upper tailgate seal...water got in there and then worked its way to the wheel well. Rtv in the jaw of the seal before fitting and it hasnt happened again...
yet
The time I had that fail was a leaky exhaust - maybe waggle some toilet paper near the joins of the exhaust and see if you have some kind of leak (you asked for cheap !!). Nano to see if your O2 sensors are still alive and then check the rest eg IACV/TPS - all free, if you have a nano...plugs - inspect them and replace if they look fouled (and then you have a bigger problem), bottle of redex in the fuel for the fuel injectors. What speed are you idling at?
The time I had that kind of fail a replacement rear exhaust section cleared things up
lol - looking at the BBS forum - someone else told BBS that the home page says 1.34 is the latest. BBS replied, thanks we'll fix that right away.... was in February. BBS really don't seem to care...
not P38s, but we cd start a thing... based on mutual collective sympathy. Series and Defenders - i get waves all the time
incartech harness and take your pick of after-market bluetooth enabled head units. It's the one thing in my P38 I can rely on to work
my last update was about 2 years ago:
BBS Firmware Version 1.34
www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/restricted
Kernel Firmware 1.10
Main Firmware 2.8
Graphic Controller Firmware 1.6Bn
OBD Firmware 1.04
Global Upgrade Level: 20180212
Changes incorporated in this release:
Vehicle specific:
Disco 2 BCU Ododmeter Sync fix
Defender PUMA Engine Management Fault code reading fix
P38 Gems Instrument Mode capture fix
Thanks for the suggestions. I'd sealed up the plenum 6m ago, and the pollen filter was bone dry when i checked it today. For good measure I added a ton more silicone, but it all looked pretty good tbh.
Sunroof drain was fine (exiting behind the wing panel, as noted above). I'll take another look at the door seal as suggested - maybe something is getting in there
BTW My spare wheel well is bone dry these days... I RTVd the top of the upper tailgate seal to the lip it mounts on.
I like the idea of drilling a couple of drain holes. Is there a professional way to finish them... a nice little one-way valve, for example?
Good thinking, in theory i sealed those up, but worth checking. I shd add that this time it was the channel that was full, but the insulation wasnt really wet, and the carpet was fine. I'll lay down some blue paper and see if i can spot a drip
Inviting comments from anyone who's familiar with the anatomy of the driver's side floor channel (the one which runs along the sill and contains the bundles of loom wiring). I emptied mine of water a few days ago, and removed a load of water from the insulation under the driver's side carpet. At the time I figured it had got there courtesy of a disconnected a/c drain during the summer. However, two days later the channel has half filled again (to be fair, it has rained alot)...the door seal's not damaged, that I can see, and no real signs of water around the door. Could the contents of one of the sunroof drains end up in that channel, if one had become dislodged? Is there mean to be a one way valve or something, in that channel, which would allow things to drain?
Tnx for your help....
Leap in the dark... brake binding perhaps... or handbrake?
IACV sounds like a good option ie something that adjusts in a temperature dependent way could be getting stuck, and then releasing. I wonder if it could be something to do with the O2 sensors as well - or the hand-over from cold start fuel trims to the O2 sensors. No faults on the O2 sensors? Is this GEMS or Thor?
Same as Richard, I now get in my P38 without fear, but it took me a good 18 months of messing around to get to that point
yep, I just brushed mine back and painted it with hammerite. I'll deal with it when it fails, if something else hasn't already fallen off the car by then
LOL - I'm slow - i didn't realise it was a link I could click on !!
Looks like a fun day trip