I've had a lone Hurricane alloy on eBay for 1yr+, dont hold ur breath, not sure what the demand is these days

Well, depending which wires you were measuring your resistance on - the blend motors have a motor, and a potentiometer - the pot resistance varies as the motor moves, which is how it signals to the ECU where the flaps are. If the pot was not working/ had been reassembled incorrectly/ or the blend motor was powered while off the heater box - then the resistance value wd show to the ECU as being out of range and it would fail the pre-test.
I think you should probably be ok now - fingers crossed..

Where in Germany are you? I'm frequently in Frankfurt

If the symbol somes on that quickly it is failing the pre-test. Pretty sure the motors should run every time you start up, or at last i never notice mine not do it. I had problems with a blend motor once (well, I have had a few in my time, but the wierdest one was only corrected when I depinned the old connector for the blend motors and replaced with a new one ( which you can find off ebay). Do the flaps move unobstructed? I also had to put a self tapper between the halves of the heater box on another occasion to allow the flaps to move more easily

I did it a few yrs back, but only remember the metal clips on the sump, which you have pictured.
Did you definitely get the right hose? I'd have to check, but I wd hav thought the metalsection on both the pipes wd be similar length...metal section on the new/silver one looks quite long.

Good news. The problem with hammering is that you can damage the dimple on the metal end of the sensor and the gap will then be wrong forever. The sensor should fit firmly/ snuggly in the housing (without hammering), so that after you put it in it can then self-adjust the gap.

Personally i'd focus on the re- seating option first. You dont need a jack, just put it on full lock...check they cleaned the housing, and gave it a new cage, with a bit of copper grease. And dont hit it back in with a hammer: o)

If you re-cover the sunshade on one side with a PU/ faux leather all the way to the edge then it will slide in the channel without messing around with the E clips. - if we're talikng about the fiddly little clips on the sunshade, anyway

Hi Chris - welcome. I'm also another Defender/ P38 cross-over.... took me a while to bond with the P38 (ie took nearly two years sorting out 20 yrs of issues), i cd never quite be bothered to fix the cruise control though

Landrover can tell you from your reg number/ chassis number. They dont need diagnostics to tell you

On the other hand, a nanocom will allow you to input the confirmed eka code and bypass the locks. Assuming your becm has not been changed...

Thanks - the more I read the more it looks like a dead end.. you can spend a lot of time and effort to maybe get Euro 4 (Thor loophole aside) and then Sadiq will change the rules at the drop of the hat , and lo and behold the requirement will be Euro 6... the only foolproof way is to do an EV conversion, i think - or buy a 40 year old base vehicle (until they change the rules on that too...)

Slightly off topic, But I have a friend who wants to convert a 110 to v8, but lives in the ULEZ zone, so wants it to be ULEZ compliant. Is there such a thing as a compliant V8 which could "readily" be dropped in - the next problem would be convincing TFL, of course...

P38 owners are a dying breed

I use bees wax furniture polish

i just ran a standard after-market DAB aerial to the lower left hand side of the windscreen (heated too). One day if i can be bothered I'll mount it elsewhere, but 90pc of the time it's fine

Hey Dan

I have a Hurricane alloy SW london, decent condition (was refurb'd at some point) and almost brand new tyre. It came to me as an un-matching spare, but was probably mounted incorrectly as it has a slow puncture... 20 quid, just bored of it lying around : o)

Welcome - i take it that sorting out the suspension does not involve a coil conversion : o)

Hi Ara,
HGs must be Elring is the main thing. I got my kits from Island, similar price to your link.

No need to pull the engine, but expect some pain around the steering column/ heat shields though

If you don't need the car daily Hugh then it's not so bad to diy a HG change if you've got a reasonable tool set and a breaker bar...seems daunting at the start, but you just go down the list one by one.
It's also worth doing a proper coolant refill and burping the system...if the gap hasn't been set up correctly it can easily dump the coolant through the overflow and perhaps you didn't notice. Running the system uncapped can easily result in a boiling over and you convince yourself it's the HGs. After I did a refill soon after acquiring I had similar symptoms (but my system has been running as sweets as for a couple of years now) - just saying it would be a shame to strip the HGs and find they were intact after all...

i'd go diff... spent ages messing around with mine and that's what it was - but yes, slack in drive train... so UJs also an (easier) option