Welcome Jim - you snuck in the back door?
I'm usually one for listening to the manual, but the write up on the silicone stuff is quite intriguing. I guess I'd have some concern about flushing all the old brake fluid out first - on the other hand your system is almost all new anyway, right?
Tnx for the tip. It looks as if car n classic may have given him the boot again, or at least they de-listed the 50th anniversary ad. It also looks like Lancashire Sports and Performance the company is in process of being struck off
The blend motors will eventually recalibrate, but i think it's after 500 ignition cycles !!
LR say 1A awake, and 40mA asleep - so the sleeping draw seems high... mine's far below 40mA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3uLZoQ-DEY&list=RDQMMVtJBURv5GQ&start_radio=1
He's up to his same tricks - identical pictures from 2 years ago !! I doubt anyone here would fall for it, but just in case:
https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1267118
This is going to get unmanageable fast...Do we need a separate "market place " folder, and then we can do a separate post for the members who have stuff ? then we can close each post out... Anyway, for as long as we are doing it this way, I have a couple of the clip-on radiator cowl sections for Thor. If anyone needs then please PM me. I guess a tenner plus P&P?
I haven't had a rosy experience with martrim either, tbh. My material was delivered, late, to the local school ( fortunately my kids go there, and the office called me). And then the PVC (was for a Defender) was way too thick to mould to the contours of a Defender's roof - had to write it off and buy material off the bay, which is far better. I've got a swatch of the beige equivalent ready for the P38, but not placed the order yet
Phazed, where did your material come from/ what shade/ finish?
I think my favourite is how the shackles of the very expensive winch bumper are used to tie the number plate on...
that's some real bush mechanics there
One false move with an air chisel, and you may regret that you didn't just do it by hand. I did my panhard bushes by using a v similar tool to that featured in your video.
P38 radius bushes have a nylon sleeve though - very different technique for refitting. They require a special tool/ press, or https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RiAycOtZOwQ&t=12s
Morat wrote:
I'm looking forward to knowing everything so I can be a complete twat to people who dare ask the same question I learned from 10 years ago.
When are we getting a "like" button
It often happens that the old hands get weary of answering people's questions and then find it easier to write a sarky response - forgetting that these sites are self-generating and just passing the baton to "the next generation". Both rr.net and lz suffered/ suffer from the emperor-syndrome - but rr.net has moved on - LZ has yet to do so
HI Grrr
photos please....
Wazza, I feel for you, after your LZ experience. You'll find there's less bullshit masquerading as banter here than LZ. Anyway, welcome - sell the L322 and get a P38 again
**jastutte wrote
and the Inhibitor button is there to keep others from changing the ride height when i'm not in the Rover
How do you figure that ? Even a chimp can depress the latch button, especially if it has a light saying "press me" on it. Best to pull the relay if you have inquisitive occupants
It's a bit (more of) a faff on Thor, but are the injectors wired up ok (i mean, i know you can't get the order wrong, but are there any signs of a break/ loose connector?). I don't know what sound one would make if it died, but if no 8 were out then it might be doing all this. As mentioned above - the quick win is checking (and rechecking) the firing sequence of the HT leads, and making sure the HT leads are all properly pushed home
lightly armoured? is that like half pregnant? - are we talking about small arms, RPG or armoured piercing rounds?