oh joy

Tnx - voltage regulator is fine.

I have cleaned out all the cross-board connections with a .5mm driil bit by hand, no joy, next step is to start putting wires through, and solder them up. For those who have done it, did you also remove the covering from the black side of the board? or just the lacquer from the green side?

I'm not seeing too much wrong here tbh, and i've pored over it with a magnifier, backlit it to see the through board connectors etc. I thought I was on to something when I tested all the resistors, but I switched multi meters and they all read fine. Are any of you experts seeing what I am missing? I don't see any future in pulling apart perfectly good pieces of board - continuity good on all switches - so I'd like to be able to pinpoint the failure first. The silver paint pen is just me marking the switches 😀 and/or Pin 1 on the blue connector. The green rings around the power connections and the chip connectors are actually the green colour of the board, as opposed to corrosion.

If you were in the UK, Marty, this would already be in the post to you !!

Tnx all...I've been testing various bits for continuity, but no joy so far

Each ride height has a window of valid values - if you're outside that range you'll end up with a fault, and if you try and change too many settings in one session/ by too much it may also throw a wobbly. I dont think you need waste time calibrating just yet - just make sure the values are all in range and you've cleared the faults

Mine has gone in to lockdown (sic) a few times when I made too many changes, and I had to change them all back before the lights stopped flashing, and it then let me make the same changes one height at a time. Take photos of the settings at each height as you go in case you have to back up, or you will drive yourself bananas trying to remember what you did/ didn't change

New shocks again? Monroe...

Tnx for the inspiration mad-as, that shd work

Thanks Miah. What does that mean in practice? what am i looking for?

Tnx for the offer GD. I may well take you up on it...at least to properly rule out the car as the culprit. I'll tinker with mine a bit more tomorrow

My switch pack decided to pack up... all switches dead.. It went from working to not working after being left standing for a week during lock-down. I think there was one trip where it was intermittent, but it went very quickly. It wasn't particularly damp/ humid, but it was cold, for sure.

I checked Fuse 1, which was fine - it controls a bunch of other stuff as well, like the instruments, so was unlikely to have been the issue. One thread said check the relay... but i'm not sure there are relays in the circuit (unless anyone knows differently).

I have taken the board out, and tested the board side of the blue connector when connected to the car. I see 12v incoming for the switch pack, and 12v incoming for the illumination (switches on and off with the headlights. I can also see 12v and 5v on the feet of the voltage regulator. I can read continuity between earth and the pins in marty's pin-out mapping or rr.net for all the window switches. Visually, under the caps, the contacts of all the switches look clean. There was a bit of corrosion on some of the soldered feet of the power connector and the main chap , but nothing too scary - cleaned it up with contact cleaner
I even disconnected the battery and reconnected it (some folks report that that works, although I was sceptical) but that had no effect, other than to ask me to reset all my windows, lol
nanocom can move all the windows no problem - so becm/ windows are fine.

What's the next most likely point of failure. A fried main chip in the switch pack?

Tnx, Rob

You can change the trinary switch without releasing the gas. Theres a schrader valve inside. You can also do a continuity check across the switch. I had success by changing the trinary switch.

Agreed...kenwood...i have one of those in the defender and one in the RR

The unit obvously leaks at that point, i'd be tempted to try a bit of bleach or acetone, blown through with compressed air, before the heat option. Prob wont work, but may relieve the boredom of lockdown

I have mixed results getting the a/c to work straight after recharge at the best of times, usually needs a bit of a run... but when it's winter outside you actually need to select Hi to warm up the evap sensor enough to then be able to select Lo and get the ac running. Probably obvious to everyone except me (and the bloke at ATS).

At least it didn't leak though, that's the main thing

For next time i'm in there... how did you split the heater box from the evaporator?

Is there a prize for the poster of 30k?

Booked in for a recharge tomorrow with ATS....when I went in on the 24th ATS evacuated the system for me. The compressor today was an easy switch - receiver drier was a little more time consuming, mainly because i dropped the bumper off. My Toolzone green rings, although metric, were not much use for the receiver drier - looks like you need 8x2 on one branch, and 8x2.5 on the other, but hard to be sure

+1 diff.. i also replaced mine at the point of big clunk fwd to reverse, with an ashcroft replacement too...

the only thing i would say is that the ashcroft paint on the diff will last about 5 minutes once on the vehicle, so repaint with your favourite stuff before you bolt it on

i guess jmc will need someone state-side though

possibly trapped air... each time you fill the coolant up to the line... engine on and the hot air expands wherever it's trapped, and blows the coolant through the pressure valve on the expansion tank.... an untraceable "leak", unless your overflow pipe runs straight out under the expansion tank in which case you've probably got dried coolant under there

Tnx Richard...we're a 4, although maybe you will be too soon?
I'll just crack on with it...gives me something to do on Boxing Day